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Ubermensch

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Everything posted by Ubermensch

  1. Ubermensch
    What is your comment based on?
  2. Ubermensch
    Under NO circumstances should you lose ANY coolant if the system is functioning properly. It is a sealed system and short of a leak or substantial overheating, no coolant will ever be lossed. Evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum. The first part of your statement is correct, but please don't tell people that evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum. That's just plain wrong. Lower pressure (vacuum) actually helps fluids vaporize. Of course I'm not sure what that has to do with this conversation since the coolant system isn't under vacuum, it's either at atmospheric pressure or it's pressurized. My guess is that you either have a small leak in your system as described by others, or you're seeing the natural expansion and contraction of the fluid due to temperature variations. That's the whole point of the expansion tank (to coolant excess fluid the system can't handle when it warms up). Shawn In order to have a static vacuum, you must have a completely leak free environment. You cannot leak, or otherwise loose substance in a system that is air tight. This has absolutely nothing to do with vaporization which does not result in an unrecoverable loss of coolant in a closed system. Sounds like we agree. S.
  3. Ubermensch
    Under NO circumstances should you lose ANY coolant if the system is functioning properly. It is a sealed system and short of a leak or substantial overheating, no coolant will ever be lossed. Evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum. The first part of your statement is correct, but please don't tell people that evaporation cannot occur in a vacuum. That's just plain wrong. Lower pressure (vacuum) actually helps fluids vaporize. Of course I'm not sure what that has to do with this conversation since the coolant system isn't under vacuum, it's either at atmospheric pressure or it's pressurized. My guess is that you either have a small leak in your system as described by others, or you're seeing the natural expansion and contraction of the fluid due to temperature variations. That's the whole point of the expansion tank (to coolant excess fluid the system can't handle when it warms up). Shawn
  4. Ubermensch
    If it really is leaking battery acid then baking soda is pretty much the best/safest thing to use. Stronger alkaline materials are probably over kill and can be dangerous to handle.
  5. Ubermensch
    Should the "00" caps be replaced even if there's no problem with coolant leakage. Does the new cap prevent damage to the reservoir? Shawn
  6. Ubermensch
    The closest thing I'm aware of is: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...mp;code=carrera
  7. Ubermensch
    1. A flare nut wrench is preferred to avoid rounding, but a standard wrench will work fine. You can't use a socket. 2. I'm not certain on the diameter, but the length is just a convenience issue. You want it long enough to reach into your drain container conveniently and not flip out and splash corrosive fluid on your or your paint. 3. This question makes me think you don't understand the process very well....if you're using a pressurized system (recommended by Porsche, e.g. motive) then you don't need to touch the brake pedal. If you're using the braking system itself to generate the pressure then your assistant will need to operate the pedal during the entire operation (press pedal, open bleed screw, close bleed screw, release pedal, repeat). Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture as a function of time. The moisture deteriotes the performance and possibly the hardware of the braking system. The recommendend replacement interval is 2 years, so yes, you need to do it. Shawn
  8. Ubermensch
    Pro: Inexpensive, reasonable traction, decent wear Con: You can get better traction if you're willing to pay more. I've run them on previous cars making more power than my Porsche and liked them quite a bit. A few years a go I switched to Yokohama EVS100's and have preferred those to the Sumi's for only a couple of dollars more.
  9. Ubermensch
    I'm not sure you'll gain much power if any from this, but if you do decide to go with thermal insulation I'd suggest you look into coatings rather than wraps. Wraps tend to trap moisture and result in rust issues in the wrapped areas. There are plenty of well respected coating companies that specialize in this sort of thing. I would imagine the biggest benefit would be to protect the surrounding components (especially plastic parts like the ignition coils) from the heat and subsequent failures. Shawn
  10. Ubermensch
    If the repair is covered then removal of bolts to make the repair should be covered. That's the craziest things I've heard in while.
  11. Ubermensch
    You need to identify the cause of the problem (most likely bent suspension component or frame damage) and rectify the problem. If you have a bent component no amount of fiddling with the alignment is going to solve the problem. Shawn
  12. Ubermensch
    Although I have no data on a 996, in the past I tested a K&N against a Amsoil performance filter on the dyno. Car was a 1994 Toyota Supra making ~330 at the wheels. The K&N showed a 10 hp increase over the Amsoil in back to back testing. I also performed oil analysis to confirm that adequate filtration was occuring. The the contaminant levels were fine, and at 206,000 miles when the car was total it still ran like it was new and had great compression. I never had issues with the MAF on that vehicle, but I understand the Denso MAFs are more tolerant of contamination than the Bosch units.
  13. Ubermensch
    Did you modify your drain interval length, or keep it the same when you moved to EP?
  14. Ubermensch
    Hopefully you misunderstood and they want to drill and tap a hole in your exhaust to measure the A/F ratio on a wideband sensor to understand the mix ratio. I've never heard of drilling a hole in the head of an engine to measure fuel or exhaust gas ratios....
  15. Ubermensch
    I'm not a huge fan of compression tests, when leak-down tests are much more informative. I'd suggest you have the shop perform the leakdown and this will help identify and defects in the block, rings, or valves. Also, compare the plugs in the cylinder that reports a misfire and see if it's running lean or rich relative to the other cylinders. Shawn
  16. Ubermensch
    Okay, after reading the manual more closely it answered my question. The additional work of driving the booster pump while bleeding is only necessary when removing air from the system. Simply flushing the fluid does not require this step. The factory service manual (for the 986) only seems to recommend using the PST2 when something major (like the master cylinder) has been replaced. Otherwise, they just describe a normal procedure using a pressure bleeder. I can't tell you how much volume you're missing, but I know I wouldn't worry about it. The fluid you really need to worry about is the stuff that's in the calipers which has been abused by heat.
  17. Ubermensch
    I happen to have an 01 C4 Coupe 6speed...mind passing the deal on? Will shipping eat up any savings?
  18. Ubermensch
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. I don't want to digress too much but do you mind sharing what part was defective on the control arm? I'm having similar issues on an identical car (model and miles). Was it the bushing or the boot that went bad?
  19. Ubermensch
    If I do not have access to the PST and therefore cannot flush the lines to the traction control system, should I bother flushing the brakes. I'm trying to understand the relative volume of and importance of these lines. If their 1% of the system volume I'm not too concerned and would go ahead and flush the system. If they're 25% I'd take it to the dealer or and indy to take care of things. I'm about to do a DE and want to make sure my system is up to par. Thanks, Shawn. PS--I started looking that PSM connector pin assignments but I don't have the time to fool around with trying to trick the system into operating at the moment. I heard one suggestion of running the car while on jack stands so the PSM system see's slippage and operates. Thoughts on that?
  20. Ubermensch
    I have a 2002 c4s coupe with the same noise you are talking about. It has to be the seal. For when the noise starts (and it is annoying) I can push against the window to break the seal even more and this changes the sound. Is there a way for the window to be tighter against the seal when the door is closed. It comes and goes depending on speed and which way the crosswind is blowing. soutahc4s I recieved a PM from a member a few days ago describing having the same problem. It was resolved by his mechanic adding some shims at the A-pillar to get a tighter seal between the window and the weather strip. I'm going to look into this, but i haven't had time yet. PS-Folding the mirror had no effect.
  21. Ubermensch
    If ebay has taught me anything it's that people will buy anything. You just have to price it appropriately. Take a look at past sales for the items you're interested in selling to understand the market and price appropriately. They'll sell.
  22. Ubermensch
    Blaupunkt stereos have the correct pin configuration from the factory. You can just plug them right in (at least my recent purchase was). I actually wanted to use something else but I couldn't find the harness or pins to create my own harness so I went Blaupunkt. The only thing I needed was an adapter for the antenna and Best Buy had that in stock. Shawn
  23. Ubermensch
    ill try a bit of tape..it is difinately coming directly from the mirror area thanks I'll check out the mirror area, I've been questioning whether it might be the culprit but it looks fine. I'll try folding it and applying some tape. I have noticed the tone of the noise changes when I open the roof or change the airflow in the car so I assumed it was a seal issue.
  24. Ubermensch
    No rattle from the window, it seems very solid. The window appears (visually) to seal well against the pillar. How do I judge if the seal is misplaced? By the way this is a C4 couple in case it matters (just so nobody thinks I'm talking about a cab).
  25. Ubermensch
    I've got a good amount of wind noise at highway speeds around the driver side A-pillar. There doesn't appear to be any damage to the door/window seal, and applying a small amount of vaseline in the area didn't resolve the noise. Is there something else I should consider before ordering a new door seal? Thanks, Shawn
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