ALLSPEED

I can't find a coolant temp. on my enthusiast model of Durametric but I drove it enough to get the get the low coolant light to flash. My analog temp. gauge on dash is lying on the far right side of the 0 on 180. Just for noting my engine compartment was at 78c and the oil temp was at 111. The coolant gauge is about as high as it ever gets and my coolant is filled almost to the neck. Any ideas? PS- This is the temp my car usually runs I just suspect it didn't happen earlier in the year because it was not hot enough and I didn't drive too much because of other problems.

I'm sorry. I must be mistaken about getting a coolant temp. reading off the Durametric. All I can find on it is to fully activate analog gauge. But as I remember and I will try and use the HVAC again it was about 100 to 102 on HVAC. Is there a way to test the sensor and how do you get to it. Analog gauge seems to be working O.K. Thanks

I'm going to try and get it to come on with the Durametric and I'll let you know in a little while. It may not be hot enough (ambient). I'll be back in a while. Thanks Loren.

HI Gentlemen-Out of all you brilliant people out there someone may help me fix my problem. I live in the very hot central California Valley and have a 1999 c2 996 6sp. This winter I sent it to a very reputable in Georgia where they replaced my IMS bearing, clutch ,flywheel, WATER PUMP, lifters and some other things. They said when they filled it they did it by vacuum which I believe. The owner said they re-filled the coolant under vacuum but to flip the bail on the bleed valve for fifty miles or so. I did as he said and everything worked fine. I drive the car little because of my bad back and I've been staying close to home because of my 89 Mother. Now that summer came and is almost gone my low coolant lamp starts flashes at about 200F which is on the right edge of the 180 on the analog gauge. This is normal for this car. I have verified the coolant temp. with both the Durametric and the HVAC hack. I stop and check and the coolant is not low. I can turn off the key and it will go off but come back on in a few. I think the only reason it waited to do it now is because the ambient temp. is higher outside. May I say I now have it filled to the neck and it does'nt go lower. I have put the Durametric on it and shows no faults except in the alarm system. I have heard the engine compartment fan come on and activated it from the Durametric. I have activated the low coolant lamp from the Durametric. Would someone tell me if they have had this problem before or any trouble shooting info as I can get. My wife wants her Audi and I hate to pay the dealer to fix this one. Thanks a lot.

Listen to the Expert.

Also search around as I've seen that topic mentioned before.

Is there a way to put it in 180 degree out ?

Have an oil analysis done. You only need about three or four oz. and can be taken from the dipstick. Blackstone Labs(there are plenty of others) offers a rush service just for this. It's called "Lemon-Aide". They are on the net. The seller should not mind. If he does,beware. An analysis will tell you all kinds of things about your engine and can tell if bearings are going out,coolant in the oil, etc. These are problems that could and do happen and this would alert you to present conditions. Engine rebuilds are very expensive and not that many mechanics familiar with them. I would not buy another without this first. The price is only $22.00. Cheap insurance. I speak from experience but still just my opinion. Good Luck, Robert.

The two swirl pots are plastic devices in your oil sump that help de-foam the oil before it is pumped back up from what I understand. They could have metal in them. Do a search on YouTube for L&N deep sump replacement by Jake Raby. It will show you the swirl pots. Lots and lots of luck, Robert.

I think I'll try the 10-40 Syntec for now. I do notice either a breakdown of viscosity or dilution of gas in oil after about 2500 miles from watching the oil pressure gauge. We will see if there is a difference in the Syntec. By the way I have 72000 miles. I could not find Hello Kitty @ Auto Zone so could you tell me the shipping,Loren. L.O.L. On the real side, thanks for the input guys. JFP your always trying to help guts out so I think I will give out my first point to you. Now if my engine blows............

DO you think 5-40 is just too thin? What do you think about a 10-40 or 10-50? Thanks for replying as I haven't bought oil yet. Thanks,Robert

I have a 1999 996 3.4 6spd. I notice that when I start my engine for the first time of the day there is small vibration from lack of oil. It makes my rear license plate rattle and then it's fine. This only happens after it has been sitting overnight and on the first start for maybe half a second. It's fine the rest of the day and I'm sure it's lack of lubrication on start up. I am using Mobile 1 5-40 and plan to switch to Syntec 5-40. Is there any cure for this as it's not real bad but the thought of metal to metal for any length of time bothers me? Also out of curiosity does anyone know why they don't sell Castrol Edge 5-40 in the U.S.? I believe it is listed as approved Porsche oil but not available in America. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Robert. P.S.- I change my oil every 3,000 miles and it happens fresh or dirty.

Just wondering if there is any feedback?

Type " HVAC monitor engine'. There are several. If I knew how to put a link I would. Let me know if you still can't find them and I will try something else.

Logray- If you want to know what the other values you see mean do a search on the 996 forum here. It was put on by Rob001 at my request. Some of the knowledge is quite useful. Enjoy, Robert

Are you sure that when you replaced your water-pump somehow you you did't contaminate the cooling system with oil?

Judgejon- I can't believe you did that!

Logray- M y 1999 996 3.4 takes 9.75 qts. of Mobile 1 with a filter change and with as much as you lost, sounds reasonable. This is one line down on dash gauge and just almost full on the dip.Im'n not sure how much the pan holds.With all the oil lost in the'' Gulf oF Mexico"' from the B.P. thing what's ten quarts.

Do you honestly believe you will get 50 hp for $60? From what I know a real performance chip (and I don't believe this is) only really helps when you have made other expensive upgrades. Real chips run from $600 to $1000 and you have to run high octane gasoline. Do a little more reading on performance chips before you waste your money and possibly harm your car. Read the thread today on Softronic flash. This reprograms your chip and costs quite a bit. Good luck, Robert.

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After reading some info on cam wear and looking at Porsche approved oils I would like to know if any one has experience with "Elf Excellium NF 5w-40w? Thanks,Robert.

Thanks Bill. I have a copy of "The Essential Companion" which I think is great reading. I also have all-data and a U.K. manual but all the Boxster fans keep referring to their "Bentley's" and I wanted one too.

I've seen Bentley manuals for many types of vehicles but haven't found one for 1999 996. Do they exist and if so, where ? Thanks, Robert.