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DBJoe996

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Everything posted by DBJoe996

  1. Trying to help out. This is a parts diagram showing the various parts of the heater box, including the actuators: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=813-05 From what you described, it does sound like one of the valve actuators that controls the internal flap is not functioning. Here is the best picture I can find of the 996 heater box...sorry, can't figure out how to put a picture in! Darn it. Anyway, it does not show the internal flapper anyway.
  2. Maybe this might help http://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/515482-broken-heater-clip-hot-air-blowing.html
  3. I would say you are missing something. Are you sure the window glass is in the regulator brackets correctly? It sounds like you have some binding of the window glass making it difficult for the regulator to move the window up/down. I would check for the alignment of the window glass in both the regulator brackets and in the seal. I would do so with the door panel removed to check everything and the movement. It could be that the window frame gasket is weak and rolls inward when hot. You could try some window lubricant to see if it helps. Even RainX would be worth a try. It is an expensive part to replace. Don't forget to plug in the airbag prior to checking the window movement otherwise you will have to reset the airbag light. I have heard there is significant difference in quality of window regulators. Recommend a Porsche window regulator not some cheap EBay off brand. Also, when I replaced mine the "rake" of the adjustment brackets on the bottom of the regulator created significant movement of the top of the window glass and how it sealed against the top window frame seal. Almost 1/2" difference between the window glass and door seal. Leads me to think somehow something is not right with the entire assembly.
  4. After the engine has cooled overnight, lift the engine lid and put you hand on the alternator. If it is warm then the diodes are going bad in the alternator, which can also cause your battery drain. Not sure about the clicking noise, but could it be related to the battery drain problem and low voltage?
  5. Part Number translates to a Side Airbag sensor as shown here: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=403-06&pn=99661822100#a I have no idea where that is located. Maybe inside the door panel? Been in there and don't remember seeing anything like that.
  6. I re-glued mine on several years ago with clear contractors adhesive from the hardware store. Still there.
  7. Well, let's keep this very simple. There are three things needed to make an engine run: fuel, spark and air. I think your symptoms point to a problem with fuel delivery. An intermittent unpredictable event like this is difficult to diagnose. I would start with removing and totally cleaning the throttle body, passage ways, butterfly and valves. It would not hurt to clean the MAF sensor at the same time since the airbox is out. And replace the air filter while in there. This could be as simple as a sticking butterfly valve in the throttle body. The point is you are going to have to do something to begin a process of elimination.
  8. Not really enough information. How does it "cut out?" While driving or at idle? Is your car (most 99's are) drive by wire or e-gas? Meaning, is there a throttle cable attached to the throttle body? Places to start: clean your throttle body; clean the ICV; what maintenance have you done?; any other symptoms?; how many miles, i.e., maybe your fuel filter needs to be replaced?
  9. Sending unit. Known to go bad. I would replace it and see what happens from there.
  10. You did not give any information on mileage or recent work. However, two places that are above this area on the engine, although slightly forward, are the oil pressure sending unit and the oil cooler. The sender unit is easy to replace. The oil cooler has two O-rings underneath it that have been known to go bad with age. Unfortunately you have to drop the engine to replace the oil cooler O-rings. I would clean up that area completely and see if you can back-trace where the oil is coming from up above. Good luck!
  11. I agree with stock...on the flywheel in particular. The dual mass flywheel has a purpose in the engine tuning characteristics and changing to a single lightweight flywheel will result in performance factors that may not be easily sorted. I figure Porsche engine designers got this right.
  12. What happens if you remove the oil filler tube cap while the engine is running? I am suggesting trying this because I had a number of the same symptoms (bogging, backfiring, slow throttle response, rough running) and it turned out to be that the oil filler tube had two major splits in it. It is plastic and it splits open in the corrugated section. Replaced it, no more problems and the engine sings like it is brand new. I go along with the other suggestions, an intake leak somewhere or something like the oil filler tube.
  13. Get a seat belt plug and forget all the wiring. Just a suggestion for track use only.
  14. Shifter cable linkage has come undone on the transmission or in the shifter. My wild guess.
  15. Glad you got it sorted out! I was trying to help out on the basis of your car as listed in your profile - a 1999 911 4 Cab, and the parts diagram at Auto Atlanta for 1999 models. Strange that your AOS and/or crankcase bleeder valve is located on the opposite side (passenger side) of the engine. I can't figure that out from the parts diagram and from personal experience. Be that as it may, at least the dealer got it figured out. Are you going to have the dealer do the AOS replacement? Just wondering....
  16. With the engine running remove your oil filler cap and note any changes in the engine idle. My engine was idle hunting, misfiring, backfiring and running very poorly, rough and low power curve. What I found was that my oil filler tube had split in two places in the corrugated section. They were barely noticeable but were creating a vacuum leak in the crankcase. If you don't notice a change in the engine idle with the oil filler cap removed, I would investigate the oil filler tube very carefully. Previously I had replaced the AOS due to a split casing that leaked coolant, and the MAF sensor due to a CEL. The other problems I noted were split and/or broken vacuum lines...the plastic ones running across the top of the engine. Many heat cycles made those brittle so they break very easily. Engine now runs perfect and the change is remarkable.
  17. I'm not getting this. That part is not located there in the picture next to the AC compressor. The crankcase bleeder valve is located on the intake distributor on the driver's side of the engine. The plastic hose that it connects to comes from the AOS, also located on the driver's side of the engine. For my 99 996 C2...it does not have an external vent as shown in the picture. I guess what it comes down to is what year, model and engine type are we looking at? And, I often find it helpful to cram my IPhone back into the tight spaces and take pictures. Works really well for "seeing" what is back there. Are you sure it is not leaking from a power steering hose?
  18. The "crankcase vent" is the AOS and is located on the drivers side of the engine. The oil cooler is on top of the engine on the passenger side. Another possible suspect is the oil sending unit, also located on the passenger side of the engine.
  19. All suggestions/recommendations are good things to check. I had erratic idle, floating and surging (or what I would call hunting). Cleaned MAF sensor several times. Finally bit the bullet and got a new MAF sensor. That did it for me. At 109K miles I would suspect yours needs replacement. They don't last forever and by replacing you will at least totally eliminate it as a potential problem.
  20. Yes, I see that LN Engineering now says to use a 26MM socket @ 18 ft lbs for the install, so the installation adapter has changed. Either way I really like the filter adapter and oil/filter changes are a snap. For what it's worth, I also installed the billet anodized magnetic oil drain pan plug mainly because it is stronger, uses a bigger bit and now I don't have to worry about striping out the drain plug.
  21. FYI - I went through several iterations of cleaning the MAF sensor and many miles. The CEL just kept coming back. I finally just replaced it. I figured it was 15 years old (my 99 C2 w/129,000+ miles) and needed replacement. I was right.
  22. I got curious on this and I went out and checked my LN filter adapter installer. I have had that on for 4 years now. Both a 29mm and 1-1/8" socket fit on the adapter installer. Remember, this does not have to be installed super tight, the O-rings do the job of sealing. So anything you can get to fit closely on the adapter installer is going to work to snug it up in the housing. I did it one time when I installed it and I have never had to retorque it. Been through probably 10 oil/filter changes since and no problems. Lube the o-rings with clean engine oil when installing, snug it up with the adapter installer, install filter and you're done!
  23. One, are you sure you checked the correct fuse? Also, did you check to see if the wiring harness had ground? You need a multimeter to check voltage, so I can assume you can check the ground wire as well (ground wire to frame). A quick check of the wiring harness only shows the one connector from the rear wiring harness to license plate lighting wiring harness. The rest is buried in the rear wiring harness which is very complex and expensive. Is anything else not working?
  24. Agree...buy new keyhead and make sure you get the code card that comes with it. Take it to the dealer for programming. The circuit board in the key head goes bad and there is no other fix. My 99 key head gave up the ghost years ago, so I just manually lock/unlock the door with the key. Works every time!
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