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wizard

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Everything posted by wizard

  1. wizard
    Replacing the evap purge valve will in all likelihood resolve the issue.
  2. wizard
    Driving on under-inflated tyres, as evidenced by wear, would most certainly void the warranty. As the owner of the car, you are responsible for its maintenance.
  3. wizard
    Excessive wear on the outer edges of the tread Is the classic sign of under inflation. It's wiser, safer and far more economical to regularly check tyre pressures and to stick to the tyre sizes recommended by Porsche. Checking alignment might be an idea also.
  4. wizard
    It's odd that you've apparently let this eat you up for, what, nine months until your very first post on Renntech to badmouth Sunset Imports. Very odd.
  5. wizard
    Hello. Based upon what your workshop has said, it's likely a disintegrating catalytic converter. However, check that the heat shields on the exhaust are firmly attached first.
  6. wizard
    This may or may not help, but the electrical component of the ignition switch can throw up all sorts of odd behaviour. As it's a cheap and easy fix, changing it may prove worthwhile. If you have an Audi dealer nearby, their part is interchangeable, and less expensive. If you can't find a write-up on this here on RennTech, there's a detailed one at pedrosgarage.com
  7. wizard
    To be absolutely certain, I'd take a 30 amp fuse from elsewhere and try it. I would note that on my 2003 Boxster the window fuse is D1. Try raising the windows with the key fob. Check if the convertible top is working.
  8. wizard
    It's my understanding that on a RHD Boxster the positive and negative battery terminals are the other way round i.e. the unused ground on a LHD car to which you refer would be used for the battery negative on a RHD car. Since confirmed by a helpful RHD owner ... "I have a RHD 1999 Boxster and viewing from the front the positive terminal is on the right, i.e the passengers side, and the terminals are closest to the spare wheel."
  9. wizard
    I'd suspect the bearing within the motor housing. Grease or replace, as necessary.
  10. wizard
    Unfortunately, you won't get sounder advice than that given by JFP. As the owner of a Boxster, I would suggest that your money would be better spent on investing in a trombone cleaner and making sure that all drains built into the car are unblocked. The drains themselves are perfectly adequate for their intended purpose provided they're maintained ... and you'd be surprised how much muck builds up if they're not periodically cleaned out. That said, I would have thought that the Porsche garage would have cleaned them out when you first put the car in.
  11. wizard
    In the vicinity of your battery, you should have a reset switch - small black rectangular box with a yellow button on top. If you have ... and before pressing it, you might want to Google to establish whether it could be related to your problem.
  12. wizard
    A stab in the dark, but does your vehicle have an auxilliary battery for cranking the engine and, if so, have you checked that?
  13. wizard
    I'm not sure how to link, but if you do a search here for 'Coolant expansion tank split pics' you'll find a discussion on a similar issue - right down to the popping sound that you heard.
  14. wizard
    I am no expert and am merely going by what I've read. On the assumption that the fluid drained was black, you really need to drop the transmission pan and change the filter. The Aisin transmission appears to have valve-body-related issues. From what I've read, the valve body is fairly easily accessed once the transmission pan has been removed. If it were me, that is what I would focus on as the least expensive and least difficult approach and hope that its repair/replacement solves the problem.
  15. wizard
    As you may be aware, ATF expands as its temperature rises. Being absolutely certain that the fill level is as it should be at the prescribed temperature seems to be the easiest next step. Are you aware if the ATF and filter have ever been changed before? Do a search for 'Help finding a Valve Body' on here and read the Revmax post. That may prove helpful.
  16. wizard
    I seem to recall reading somewhere that it is now obligatory in France to have a breathalyser kit in the car. You might want to check that out if you haven't already. Bon chance!
  17. wizard
    Solenoid which actuates latch? I previously mentioned that I thought the fuse was C3. You may want to verify that from the fuse chart that comes with the car.
  18. wizard
    In addition to the above, check the fuse ... C3 I think it is.
  19. wizard
    As you are no doubt aware, there is a precise procedure for refilling the transmission to ensure the correct fill level. Your mechanic presumably knows that? If in doubt, it may be a good idea for you yourself to ensure that the transmission has been filled to that correct level; with the fluid at a temperature of between 35C and 40C.
  20. wizard
    As DBJoe996 originally suggested, I would get on down to Behbehanis for the electrical component to the ignition switch. Replacing that would be the least expensive and easiest first step ... and may even solve the problem.
  21. wizard
    I run Liqui Moly ... 5W-40. If it's on the approved oils list for the Panamera, perhaps give that a try.
  22. wizard
    Do you have a Durametric cable ... or a friend with one? Any fault codes stored should assist in at least narrowing down where the problem has arisen.
  23. wizard
    In addition to the above, I recall somebody once experiencing instrument cluster problems on a 996 which were ultimately traced to frayed wiring on the fuel level sender unit. I see that your fuel gauge is showing reserve tank. Is that due to a need to refuel or a faulty reading?
  24. wizard
    Nothing else springs to mind, other than visually checking your coolant level regularly and perhaps inspecting the water pump. Depending upon how mechanically adept you are, removal of the serpentine belt which drives the pump and checking it for play/residue is a straight forward process on the 986. I don't know if that's the case with the 987. I'd still focus on ruling out the more mechanical elements before considering removal of the instrument cluster. Disconnecting the battery to see if that clears something that has been stored, and burping the system will do no harm at all. From memory, burping calls for the heater to be set to high and for the front fans to activate. I'm sure you can find the procedure through Google.
  25. wizard
    Welcome. It's very helpful to be as precise as possible. You have only now mentioned that the light is blinking. If one naturally assumes that not to be the case, the 'engine coolant temperature too high' would be a factor. Let us know how you get on.
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