1schoir

Loren - how much difference is there between the 996 OBD2 (DME 5.2.2) and the later DME 7.2 on an '01 Boxster? Similar enough to still be of value, or significant changes / advances? On the same topic, how much difference between the 996 OBDII (DME 5.2.2) and the 986 Boxster OBDII (DME 5.2.2)? Regards, Maurice.

Rod: The rubber door seal at the base at the bottom of each window (when the window is up) does not make a completely waterproof seal, and some water migrates into the door cavity. The water that does get in there normally drains out onto the sides of the door sills. When you remove the door panels, be sure to have the battery disconnected and the key out of the ignition so as to avoid getting an airbag light. Regards, Maurice.

Silver: I would check to see whether the foam liners inside the door panels are intact, and that they are adhered to the door skin continuously around its perimeter. If someone has been in there (replacing window regulator, "upgrading" the speakers, etc.) and was careless with the foam liner, it could cause the kind of leak that you are describing. Regards, Maurice.

Tell me more about what you see with the AOS. Link to more photos http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii302/k...mview=slideshow Thanks! The link says "This Album Is Private" and requires a password. Regards, Maurice.

Peter: I've never been called that before! LOL! Anyway, the liners are just laying in there, no adhesive, no contact cement. They are held in place by the fasteners and the parts that are over them (like the transmissions and those slotted large plastic screws). Regards, Maurice.

Matt: One more thing. It's unlikely that your membranes just "split". It's much more likely that they were slit by dangling pushrods after the plastic cups broke apart, perhaps when a previous owner was having problems with his top. So, be very careful after you install the new membranes that you don't operate the top (and thus rotate the V-levers) unless everything is connected up completely. This is probably not a job you would want to do twice. Regards, Maurice.

Ninja: First check fuse # D8, in the main fuse panel that the "foot switch" is mounted on. (4th row from top, 8th fuse from left). It's a 15 amp fuse. If you don't have any extra fuses, there are some spares in very bottom row (to the right of the switch). Do not use anything other than a 15 amp fuse, it could get expensive. If that fuse is good, there are also two additional relays inside the rear trunk, on a relay carrier on the driver's (left) side inner fender, under the left side trim panel (carpeting). Once you locate the relay carrier, you can just pull it to the right to remove it from its bracket and you can lay it on the trunk floor. There are twelve (12) small square relays there, numbered 1 to 6 going from left to right on the top row, and 7 to twelve going fom left to right in the bottom row. #3 is the "spoiler extension" relay, and # 9 is the "spoiler retraction" relay. Let us know how you make out. Regards, Maurice.

Matt: You are going to have to remove the V-levers, the black plastic shield behind them, and the convertible top transmissions. Be careful not to operate the top if you disconnect the pushrods from the V-levers or you will have extra work trying to re-synch the transmissions. You also have to remove the two large plastic slotted screws on each side at the rear, near the clamshell arms. I have looked at this before, and I believe you also have to remove the three bolts that hold the convertible top frame to the body on each side. Perhaps someone else who has removed the frame can confirm this. This will certainly give you a great opportunity to verify that your drains are located properly and functioning at 100%. Perhaps you can take some photos and post part numbers, etc... Regards, Maurice.

Danny: The diagram that Loren provided is an excellent document for the location of the drains. Another knowledgeable poster named "Kim" also posted what he found to be the source of water coming into the cabin. Here is the text of Kim's post: "In another thread, I described the tribulations involved in removing the rear seat and pax side rear inner sidewall of my 2000 Cab .... all in an attempt to find the source of my water soaked carpets behing the pax seat and under the right back seat. Today, I finally finished, but have no idea how long it will take that high density foam padding to dry, after I vacuumed and towel blotted it all afternoon. Here is the lesson learned for you Cab owners: a small plastic drain tray runs along the side wall behind the inner upholstery panel beside each back seat. A right angle fitting leads from the low point, sideways through the inner body panel and into the void ahead of the rear tire. If you remove the rear wheel, then the forward side wheel well liner, all you see is the metal body panel right behind it. Almost at the bottom of the body panel is the outlet for the drain tube. The outlet itself is a simple plastic check valve with a rubber flapper valve about the size of a nickel. Therein lies the problem. The rubber was stiff with age, and gummed up about 90% with the same kind of crud you clean out of your gutters ... fine, wet, black gunk. When my car was out in the pouring rain at the airport for 2 days, the 10% drain capacity left was clearly not enough to handle the water flow, and a gallon or so ended up in my back seat floor. I pulled the flapper off, blew out the drain with air, then soaked the flapper in Lexol conditioner to soften it before reinstalling. Considered leaving the rubber flapper off, but was afraid that road debris might come in the other way to block it. Going to pull the driver's side wheel and liner tomorrow. My car has been kept in a garage ... no reason to suspect more than average debris in the drain. You Cab owners might wish to add this to your "check every now and then" list" " Let us know what you find after getting under your carpets. Regards, Maurice.

Raj: The major problem with weather that includes temperatures below 40 degrees Farenheit involves possible cracking of the vinyl window. Since you have a 2003, you should have a glass window and therefore don't have to worry about that problem. As far a rain/snow damage, it's a good idea to treat the top with RaggTopp cleaner and the RaggTopp protectant (fabric version, not vinyl). The more important concern from rain is to insure that your drains are clear of leaves or debris. If the drains are clogged, you run the risk of getting water into the cabin, where it will find its way under the driver's (left side) seat and fry your central alarm/locking computer. That can turn into a very expensive $$$$ repair. Regards, Maurice.

If you have condensation showing up on the inside of your windows, you can be sure that there is moisture inside the cabin. The reason your carpets may not feel wet is that there is a very thick foam backing that will absorb a lot of water before you can feel "wetness" on the surface of the carpet. Pull the carpet up from under or behind the front seats. If you find moisture underneath the carpet, you must dry it out, and it's no easy task because of how much water the carpet padding absorbs. While you are at it, be sure to check your central alarm lock unit, which is located under the left seat. If that unit gets wet, or stays wet, you are looking at a major $$$$ repair bill. If you find moisture or water anywhere, you have got to trace the source. Do a search on this site, there is a post that deals with water collecting in the water trays at the rear and then leaking into the cabin. If you can't find it let me know, and I will search for the post as well. Regards, Maurice.

Hung: I agree with Stefan. You may have it the nail on the head because resonance can definitely cause the shields to vibrate. It's happened to me. Regards, Maurice.

Pablo: The photo did not show up, maybe you can repost it. Don't give up yet, and do throw the Boxster into the dumpster. That would be sacrilegious! As Peter suggests above, it now sounds like you may possibly have a large pebble or some other similar debris stuck in the drain hose, blocking the path of drain water or of the snake you are trying to push through. If you have access to compressed air, stick the compressed air gun into the drain from underneath and maybe wrap the gun nozzle in a rag or a rubber sheet to get some seal there, then go up top and listen for any air coming through the drain hole. If you hear high pitched whistling, then there is probably something stuck in there. Be careful not to look down the drain hole while there is air coming in from below under pressure as whatever is down there could suddenly come flying out. If you determine there is something in there, before trying to take out the complete drain tube, try pushing in something stiffer than the snake in from underneath , and push it back and forth to try to dislodge it. At the stage you are presently at, a dealer would not do anything different that what you are presently attempting, other than to dismantle everything in that area and replacing everything and charging you accordingly. As a last resort, since you have everything opened up from above and from below, how hard would it be to pull out the drain hose completely and then either re-install it after clearing it out or replacing it with a new one. Another possibility, although I don't know if it's feasible, would be to get a new drain hose, and route it right next to the present problem drain hose and connect it to underneath the foam liner drain tray. I'd love to see the photo you took, if you can manage it. Regards, Maurice.

Matt: Read the replies by RFM and by Loren above, at posts #18 and #20. RFM: The lever lock electro motor is located under the trim. Loren: RFM is referring to the two solenoids that lock the front and rear latches when you lock the car. I guess if one of these solenoids is bad it might make a buzzing sound. When you get under there, perhaps you could post some photos of these solenoids. Regards, Maurice.

I understand your point. For me the real issue is that I know what Porsche allows for the install, approx. 3-4 hrs. Labor rates may vary, not by that much! The other issue is that I don't trust them to do the right job! I've heard a lot of horror stories about incorrect software updates, etc. I understand and agree. The quality of the work is very-very important. Good decision. I would like to find the right forum to bring this issue to PCNA's attention. Write PCNA a letter. Curious to know if they would really address the problem (the obvious rip-off) or if they would spin this like a supersonic top. My money is on the spin. BTW, I'm with you on not allowing that dealer to do the install, at any price. Aside from the principle involved, if you don't trust them to do it right it could "cost" you for years to come and take away from the enjoyment that you should have from your Porsche. Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for sharing! Regards, Maurice.

Did you check out the muffler heat shields, as suggested? Those shields make some horrendous noises when they get loose. Regards, Maurice.

Just a quick question--I have heard that using the cigarette lighter trickle charger while you change batteries will preserve the radio and ECU codes. Does this work? Thanks That does work, as long as the power is not interrupted. Remember, if you have one of the "early" cigarette lighters, the receptacle is a little wider in diameter and a lot shorter, so it's easy for the plug to fall out and thus to "lose power" accidentally. Regards, Maurice.

Heligear: Bummer! From my reading on this forum from posters who have lots of experience with this issue, it's more likely that it's the IMS, not the RMS. RMS is usually a much slower leak. In either case the transmission has to come off, but be careful in the meantime. Please be sure to keep us posted on what you discover, both with the leak and with Porsche's attitude. Regards, Maurice.

Welcome! We always love to see photos around here (hint, hint). Regards, Maurice.

Unlikely that someone could have picked the seal out to cause the leak as they would first have to remove the transmission to get access to the seal. Regards, Maurice.

Very true about the flex additive. As long as you have a decent paint gun and a decent, dust free, humidity free painting environment. I agree that it's not quantum physics. With the proper equipment and proper prep, you can definitely get great results. Regards, Maurice.

Dedes: In case you are having trouble locating the heater core from the outside of the car (forward of the base of the windshield, just behind the battery) it's because it's hidden under a foam liner cover, behind the firewall with just the inlet and outlet tubes (and their corresponding hoses) sticking out. Here is a photo, showing the foam liner cover removed and the two hoses temporarily connected : The coils are beneath the brown plastic top cap of the core. With the car properly warmed up, and the heat settings on high, you should be able to feel that both hoses are hot, as coolant should be flowing through both of them. The inlet (see the arrows on the hoses) should be slightly warmer than the outlet, but I don't know if it's enough to feel a difference. Regards, Maurice. P.S. Thanks for the Pedro update.

Mike: It is very important to verify that the Warranty Company is financially sound and has adequate reserves. There are a number of horror stories floating around on the message boards where posters have paid big $$$ for a warranty, only to find the company "dissolved" within a few months. Best to check with your state's Better Business Bureau and your state's insurance department. Also do a search on "Ripoffreport.com" Regards, Maurice. I think it's "ripoffreport.org" ...and how do I "verify that the Warranty Company is financially sound and has adequate reserves?" Team996: You are correct, it is ".org", not ".com". Sorry. Since you are in California, a good place to start is by verifying whether the warranty company is insured. In California, a warranty company's insurer must be licensed by the California Department of Insurance, with one exception. It can also be insured by a "risk retention group", which is a type of insurance company. "True" insurance companies are more regulated than Risk Retention Groups (and that designation should appear as part of its full name on the contract) and offer consumers more protections that do Risk Retention Groups. There is a toll-free number that you can call in California to verify whether the insurance company that insures the Warranty Provider is licensed by the California Department of Insurance (1-800-927-4357). Also, be aware that the California Department of Insurance does not regulate the finances and claim handling of risk retention groups as closely as it does insurance companies that are licensed in California. California law also allows you to cancel any service contract. With a used car, you can get a full refund if you cancel the contract in writing within 30 days after receiving the contract, assuming you have made no claims. If you have filed a claim, you can still cancel the contract and receive a partial refund. If the Warranty Company refuses to honor your cancellation or refuses to refund your money, you can then first have recourse with the insurance company, followed by the California Department of Insurance. Also, in California, the Warranty Company itself (known as a Vehicle Service Contract Provider or VSCP) must hold a special license from the California Department of Insurance and companies are not legally permitted to sell service contracts directly to consumers over the internet. Only car dealers can legally sell you a service contract in California. For a good indication of the underlying insurance company's financial strength, do a search with the insurance ratings company, A. M. Best, at www.ambest.com Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, This sounds all good and I am familiar with what your saying. Pedro, who you may know on PPBB showed me this procedure at West Coast Boxsterfest last October 2007. Because I had some coolant spill out from the high altitude in Tahoe. The coolant expanded/over flowed by the time I reached my final destination in Tahoe. Probably too much coolant in tank then. So Pedro had me fill up the coolant tank with distilled water and then show me how to purge it to get the air bubbles out. Plus he showed me how to turn off the CEL, because it was lit from the spill. So probably I had a air bubble in the coolant like you said. That possibly explains the cool air then the hot air. Good job Maurice. But I will still keep my eye on things. I appreciate all your efforts to explain all of this to me. I learned a lot from both you and juniiuc. Thanks so much for giving me the heads up on this! Dede Dede: Pedro has an excellent procedure for bleeding the coolant system after a flush/refill, and he certainly is very knowledgeable, as well as being the king of hacks. Be sure to let us know how you resolve the problem. Regards, Maurice.