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hahnmgh63

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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. hahnmgh63
    As you mentioned, most, including me that had the suspension warning had it happen a little bit after startup, for me it would occur after about 1KM of driving, quicker on colder than warmer days. Now, my girlfriends Audi A8, believe it or not almost the identical suspension (all components are of the same manufacturers, just different types of course) had it happen right away. I rebuilt the compressor and nothing, ended up having to replace the suspension control module with a good used one. You definitely need to scan the codes.
  2. hahnmgh63
    Also need to get in there and read and clear the ECU codes.
  3. hahnmgh63
    As mentioned definitely have the codes cleared first then attempt to drive a few Km/Miles. If that doesn't work (worked for some), then you, may need to have the level calibration done which worked in my case. Definitely need Durametric or PIWIS scan to see what the codes actually still are.
  4. hahnmgh63
    The drains plugged at the Wet Carpet padding described above or the Recirculation flap, flap motor, etc... are the only two common reasons for this. Always the possibility you've found something new though.
  5. hahnmgh63
    They tend to run a little rich, especially if your into the boost (which at that point is a good thing). If it is actually rich it could be the O2's, could also be the engine temp sensor thinking it is cold. A few other possibilities too so the best thing is to run a scan, Durametric or other. Since it would be an Emissions code, any good scanner should give you a start.
  6. hahnmgh63
    If you are going to change the Coil packs, which you should, you should also do the spark plugs at the same time since your there.
  7. hahnmgh63
    Maybe someone else will pipe in but I don't think Porsche supports more than 10% Ethanol in the Cayenne.
  8. hahnmgh63
    Possibly, I had a new 944 Turbo and hadn't chipped it yet as it was still on warranty in the late 80's and the engine failed. Porsche installed a new engine and the Porsche N.America Tech rep told me the factory wanted the engine back to investigate in detail why it failed. At times they've really shown a desire to investigate and fix Engineering and Production faults, then again at times they seem to not care?
  9. hahnmgh63
    Leave the little plug in the back of the Orange cable, the Most circuit (fiber optic) needs to pass through the plug from one wire to the next. If you pull the plug out of the end your Nav, amp, Sat, etc... will quit.
  10. hahnmgh63
    Can you run a Durametric Scan? Their are multiple little motors/servos that direct Vent air, and they are known for fail. The Fresh Air Vent Servo (causes fogging windows in Econ mode) is the only one that is relatively easy to get at the others require a fair amount of panel removal. Their are 3 I believe on the drivers side of the HVAC system (above the drivers footwell) that are commonly known to fail (I have a fault showing in one of mine now but no adverse affects noted yet so I haven't dived into it).
  11. hahnmgh63
    Mahle and Mann are two of the largest suppliers to all of the German Auto makers of Filters, Air & Oil. Sometimes you will even find the Mann or Mahle part # on the porsche part depending on the production lot.
  12. hahnmgh63
    1772 fault for me a couple of years ago and the Compressor rebuild kit fixed my problem. No codes yet after two years.
  13. hahnmgh63
    I've always been a skeptic too but the more positive feedback the better. I figured you just push the throttle down faster. When the PSM is off the response is immediate but their is a hesitation with it on. I installed a Eurocharged tune almost two years ago and it did help a little with the throttle response but still not where I want it.
  14. hahnmgh63
    Any mods (electrically oriented) ever done to the vehicle? Wired in Radar detector, Alarm, etc... Sounds like a CAN issue or Battery Regulator, Central Electrics. A lot of connections for the CAN bus to check. Once again, any mods or electrical work done that you know of?
  15. hahnmgh63
    In the engine compartment there is a charging positive and negative terminal under the small plastic cover on the left rear of the compartment (LH Drive at least). Pop the cover and there is a Ground post and just to the rear of it there is a Red plastic flip cover you flip up to reveal the Positive terminal. If you have time I would slow charge it with a 2~4 amp charger at least over night if not upwards of two days. If your in a hurry faster charge it with 6~8amps but use a quality charger with Automatic overcharge protection. If the battery is new and Ok then you shouldn't be getting that warning unless you were running some accessories with the engine off for a while. You should still be able to start it with that warning although it is harder on your Alternator to do all of the charging of the battery and a normal load, and it is an expensive Alternator so why put the extra stress on it. There are some details that I am assuming, battery condition and such. It could be a bad battery, a parasitic drain larger than normal ( Cayenne does have a lot of Parasitic drain, I keep mine on a battery tender if I'm not driving it for a few days), bad Alternator/voltage regulator, dirty connections (Ground and/or Positive lead), etc....
  16. hahnmgh63
    My '06 CTTS gets around 16mpg with mostly 3/4+ highway and less than 1/4 city. I have done some roadtrips and I know that over 70mph I have to accept that the fuel mileage decreases a fair amount. Other than what you've replaced, as long as your O2 sensors are not throwing a code then I'd say it is a matter of high speed driving. Try keeping it to below 70mph on a tank and see how much it improves but definitely check for any codes first ( by no codes did you mean CEL or did you run Durametric or PIWIS on it?).
  17. hahnmgh63
    My question is: Is the shock under the Air Spring of a fairly conventional design? If so, how long will the original shock itself last. If it's fairly conventional the compression and rebound capabilities are starting to get weak by 100K?
  18. hahnmgh63
    Running a high quality name brand Premium gasoline should be all you need. But if you have been using discount gasoline (most local gas comes from the same refineries but the bigger name brands have better additive packages) then Techron might help. Porsche used to recommend Techron but now they just recommend Top Tier gasolines. If you use the concentrated Techron it is best to use it before and oil change as the Concentrated Techron can loosen a lot of Carbon which will dilute in the oil.
  19. hahnmgh63
    Thanks, didn't realize the new one was out. We have a lot of new roads around here in the last couple of years so I may just go ahead and purchase the newest one again.
  20. hahnmgh63
    All Porsche models use the same bolt pattern (5x130), but offsets vary. I have seen Cayenne wheels on an 911 but they are heavy wheels, made stouter for the weight of the Cayenne and I wouldn't put them on a Sports car myself.
  21. hahnmgh63
    I can try to E-mail you a pic this weekend but I'll be out of town until Saturday morning.
  22. hahnmgh63
    I'm just worry that they will quit updating their software for our older (955) Pigs and just update for the newer stuff.
  23. hahnmgh63
    Very interested, yes keep us posted. The latest Durametric has gotten a lot better but it still doesn't work on my Electrical System and faults quite often on the Instrument Cluster ("06 CTTS).
  24. hahnmgh63
    Durametric found a bad (Intermittent) Park Assist sensor on my '06 CTTS, I would assume they're the same sensors on your '06.
  25. hahnmgh63
    How much of a pain was it to change those motors? I have one fault there and had the fresh air flap motor but that one was easy to change down by the Pollen filter.
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