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hahnmgh63

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Everything posted by hahnmgh63

  1. And the bonus is that the newer CHF 202 is cheaper most everywhere than the CHF 11S. Just order some from Amazon. Extract what you can out of the reservoir tank and refill. You can get a little more out if you lift the front end off the ground and turn the steering lock to lock, it will force more of the old fluid into the resevoir. If you do it that way, start the engine after refilling and turn the steering wheel lock to lock again to get any air out of the system then shut the engine down and recheck the level and top off as necessary, as Wvicary said they are compatible and ok to mix the two but I would still try to extract as much of the old dirty fluid as possible.
  2. When I picked up my '06 Turbo S on the East coast (Deleware) I immediately began a drive to the West Coast (Wash state). I had multiple faults, dipped beam, level control, AWD transfer system, etc.. throughout the drive. When I got the car home, did a good wash of course but I went through every connection underneath, in the engine compartment, in the wheel wells and disconnected then and sprayed contact cleaner enhancer ( http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.292/.f ) on every connection and then reconnected. After all of that the only one that ever came back was the dipped beam error and I replaced both HID bulbs and that one has never returned. These cars are definitely picky about their connections. It is a little bit time consuming but a good start before going more in depth. In my case I am lucky in that I have a lift in my shop but there is room under the Pig to do it on your back still.
  3. alekazam did you look at the link that I posted? Much cheaper than the full compressor and even though it points to the Toureg if you go through the ECS site and enter data for the Cayenne Turbo it comes up with the same kit. I ordered one for my '06 Turbo S and I can post the results when it gets here this Thursday (your Friday).
  4. Probably the Turbos, and like I said Scroll produccts is a highly reputed place to have them done. They started in Europe years ago and just opened the U.S. shop a couple of years ago. I live in Washington State but shipped the Turbos off my RS6 to them (New Jersey) upon recommendations and I'm very happy with the job and the price (around $1300 for rebuild & some updates). Before you just pull the Turbos have a compression and leakdown check done just to confirm as the Cayenne's are not as bullet proof as some of the other Porsche or Audi models that I'm used to.
  5. If you haven't already, check this thread out. Talk about a possible cheap fix with OEM parts. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38391-2004ctt-air-suspension-warning-obd-code-1772/page__p__210587__hl__1772__fromsearch__1#entry210587
  6. You guys have jinxed me with this talk. '06 Turbo S with air suspension fault warning today. The weather is cooler than when driven last week and comes on a minute or two after start up. If I shut it down and restart it goes away and almost always doesn't come back until a restart after sitting for some time. I checked and it is the 1772 code, and since it was so cheap I started by ordering the $9.55 pump repair kit so I'll see if it is the same, or at least part of it. How can a part for a Cayenne, or Toureg for that matter be so cheap? Especially from ECS!!! If it doesn't fix it I'll try that pressure sensor. I did clear the code while I was in there so we'll see since I will probably drive it once or twice more before I do any work on it. P.S. Once the code comes up while driving, the car seems normal except the ride height will not change when selected.
  7. www.scrollproducts.com for the Turbo info and Google the rest. P.S. Great place to get your Turbos rebuilt too.
  8. Bucking the standard Porsche direction, instead of a KKK German Turbocharger the '03 to '06 Cayennes use a IHI (Ishikawajima Harima Heavy Industries, Ltd) RHF5 Turbocharger. The '07 and newer Cayenne's use a Mitsubishi TD04 Turbo. IHI Turbos are manufactured around the world, including the U.S (in conjunction with Borg Warner) and in Germany.
  9. Found this, sounds like a great price. http://revmaxconverters.com/about/shop/09dlate
  10. I agree with the others. The price on the Valve body is about the going rate but it sure seems like they are just trying to replace a bunch of things because they aren't sure exactly what the problem is. As already mentioned, are there codes? The Sonnax valve body is about the same price and supposedly has 6 improvements (it's a modified Aisin body of course) over the stock Japanese valve body.
  11. I know they make them for the Turbo & Turbo S. They have had good reviews from those that have purchased them, supposedly noticeable on the low end. Probably only 10~20bhp gain at the most. Even Champion Motorsports sells them and their one of the most reputable Porsche racers in the U.S. http://www.ipdplenums.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=17
  12. I lubricated all of the rubber seals on mine with Dow Corning Silicone grease and get no squeaks from the roof itself but seem to get one in the header panel just in front of the roof, overhead of the sunroof control panel. I've pulled the sunroof control panel but can't seem to find it. The 100% silicone Down Corning grease, which is clear/white in color actually protects and lubricates the seals.
  13. I'm still a big believer in the EBC Yellows compared to OEM. Just do a Google search for them and look at all of the positive feedback plus the bonus that they are cheaper than OEM, dust less, easier on the rotors, and higher temp capable. One thing to keep in mind is that your wear sensors may need to be replaced. They get a little brittle after a few miles, at least they aren't a fortune from Sonnen or Suncoast.
  14. Yea it's too bad. Durametric is a crappy tool but it's about the only one we've got. For those of you that are also Audi or VW (VAG) owners you probably know the Ross Tech Vagcom program is 1000% better. It seems like Durametric is trying to emulate the Vagcom program but they are about 10 years behind Ross-tech in their software development.
  15. TSB 9436 applies to 2004 and older Cayennes but it does give an indication on what a bad switch can affect on those models, as Loren posted, the '05 and later are different but the systems affected may be the same: - the brake lights are continuously lit - the cruise control does not function at times - the PSM fails - the vehicle cannot be started
  16. Found it, TSB 3702. For the Cayenne Turbo, any manufactured after Jan 24, 2004 should have the newer transmission with tranny #'s starting at 09D300037H, so approx. mid 2004 year production. It says the capacity has increased in the "New verson Tiptronic" but maybe someone on here knows if it was just and increase in the pan size or a real improvement to the tranny.
  17. royxaxa, what year and model of pig do you have? I think it was the end of '04 or the beginning of '05 there was an increase in fluid quantity. Porsche has a TSB out and owners manual supplement for the ones that started with the new change. The TSB is a manual page insert and the full TSB lists the tranny #'s when the change was incorporated and say's that all trannies being replaced will have the new quantites. It may be as simple as a bigger oil pan but without seeing it who knows? Someone on here may know the difference as Porsche just lists new tranny #'s.
  18. I'm using the EBC Yellow pads on my '06 Turbo S and their braking is about the same as stock, they dust a little less after break-in, they cost half as much, and are suppose to be easier on the rotors and higher temp capable. I have been using a set on my old 911 and I do some D.E. track events and love too in the 911.
  19. mamut79, I also swapped mine recently in my '06 Turbo S to Redline products but I went with 75W-90, I think the 75W-140 may be a little too thick. I also used Redline D4 ATF in the transmission & transfer case. Now that the weather is starting to cool down I notice that the tranny shifts better when cold with the Redline than it ever did with the OEM stuff, and maybe it's just me but it seems less differential and tranny noise.
  20. Yea, I would change all of the coil packs and plugs at the same time, not just a couple of them.
  21. I occaisonally get the same thing and I think their is a TSB out on this or it may only be for the Turbo S and Powerkit cars. Mine is a '06 Turbo S and I will try to look up the TSB but as mentioned, post the type & year of your Cayenne, it helps a lot with diagnosis.
  22. My old PCM was 6655 7L5.035.191L (early '06 model, late '05 manufacture Turbo S) and I replaced it with a 17/08 dated PCM 6693 7L5.035.192C and all is well, so there is a bit of interchangeability between the 2.1 units but as everyone mentioned, you have a 2.0 unit. I have heard that Bose cars need a Bose unit and Vice Versa.
  23. I'm not sure who Bob is but some of his advice is contrary to what most auto manufacturers have been saying and even what the SAE says. I would believe much more in a company like LN Engineering who have been building Porsche race engines for years and have been big advocates in better oil to stave off the 996/997 engines IMS failures as well as complaining that the Cayenne's 20K oil changes are a short sighted joke. I also use Blackstone labs for my cars (actually only two of them year round as the track car hasn't been on the track in two years) and they say my TBN's and analysis is one of the best they've seen at 7~8K oil changes but don't recommend to go past 10K on my oil. You can find many examples of Blackstone Oil anaylysis on line to compare yours too as I do on Both Rennlist forum and Audizine to see how the group is doing. I see Bob is the oil guy has a bunch of advertisers inclucing Mobil & Pennzoil so I'm sure you won't see any bad mouthing of those two brands on there. LN Engineering is a Brad Penn dealer (also Swepco, Motul, & Mobil race oils) but speak very highly of Redline in the "Excellence" article. http://www.lnengineering.com/ http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
  24. UTRacerX9 you said it exactly, Mobil 1 in Europe is a better oil than what they sell in N. America because the ACEA requirements standards are stricter and they wouldn't be able to sell most of the oil that they sell here. It is curious why they call the 0W-40 the "European formular" when it barely meets the ACEA standards and isn't the same as the oil they sell over there. Workin4it, I do think Amsoil is a good oil, and if you check the product data sheets I just think Redline is slightly better for about the same price. As for Royal Purple, I know many people swear by it but they don't test their oil to the ACEA standard, or at least they didn't as of a couple of years ago so I had nothing to compare it too, who knows, it may be one of the best oils out there but without the right data it is hard to tell, and if you have a vehicle on warranty it would be a mistake to use a oil that isn't tested to meet the minimum standard as I've seen dealers send oil out for analysis. If you read this months "Excellence" article on oils including the excerpt from LN Engineering on IMS failures that have plagued 911's & Boxsters & Caymans lately you will find some good information on oil. Remember even though we don't have flat tappet engines, the reduction of ZDDP in the N. American market increases the wear on our engines now, but of course our Catalytic converters are going to last another 20~30K. I would rather replace my Catalytic converter than my engine?
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