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ar38070

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Everything posted by ar38070

  1. You can try www.vertexauto.com for textar. Used to be $69.
  2. Sorry. You need to give us a better description and/or take a picture and indicate which bolts you mean. Also do you mean the front or the rear or both?
  3. You need to a better description and/or a picture and is this front or rear.
  4. Just use tie wraps and tie them some place secure. You do not wear street pads very quickly so just keep an eye on them. Depending on how hard you drive the car you should have an idea as the how often you will need to check them. If you track the car you should be checking pad condition frequently anyway.
  5. I do not believe that the caliper bolts are torque to yield bolts. They do have a surface finish to them but as far as know there is documentation that they are torque to yield. If you have a source that documents this I am sure we would all like to know what it is.
  6. If the compressor is turning on and you can feel some change in the temperature of the air then it sounds like you lost your coolant or the compressor, while running, may not be doing its job. Time to go to the dealer.
  7. Try ~110 amps for 986 alternators. The cayenne is 210 amps max output! Still, this is a moot point because if the alternator needs to fully charge the battery, the battery is probably bad and will lose the charge from the alternator as soon as the car stops running anyways. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Regardless of the output of the alternator, it will always try to fully charge the battery. As soon as you start the car the alternator will be charging the battery to replace what was used to start the car. Whether or not the battery will hold the charge is another matter.
  8. Impact hammer works too. You can use anti-seize on them, I do. I suppose techically not needed as the wheel bolts will certainly clamp erverything together. Hoever if you do not use the screws then the rotors will flopping around as you try to mount the wheel.
  9. Loren, I think you meant heating the wheel carrier. Usually you freeze the bearing. If you can get the bearing out/in without removing the wheel carrier then no alignment should be necessary. Most shops charge 3-4 hours for a bearing R&R.
  10. I do not agree with this statement. There is no way that an automobile's alternator is designed to only issue a maintenance or "surface" charge. It is designed (amongst other things) to recharge the battery after starting the car. That is charging the battery not a maintenance or surface charge. The alternator can put out in the neighborhood of 50 amps. It will fully recharge the battery, depending on level of discharge, in 15-30 minutes. If the car is out of service for a week or so with the battery disconnected, assuming the battery is in good shape, it is not necessary to charge it with an external charger. Even several months should not be a problem. If a disconnected battery does not hold a charge on its own for several months there is something wrong with it. Re: trickle/float chargers Theoretically these are different. A trickle charger is a slow charger. A charger that takes 8+ hours to recharge the battery. Your typical 5-10 amp automobile battery charger is a trickle charger. It usually keeps charging as long as it is connected. A float charger is usualy used to maintain a battery. It monitors the battery voltage and modifies its charge rate as appropriate. Most automobile float chargers operate in the .5 to 1 amp range while charging dropping to zero when not needed.
  11. There is a wire from the ecu to the coil pack. I do not know if there is a connector between the wire and the ecu but there probably is. There is a connector between the wire and the coil pack. Either of these connectors could be at fault. Also the wire itself could be at fault. This wire would not be moved from cylinder to cylinder unless it was disconnected from the ecu. If they actually disconnected the wires from the ecu and swapped the wires and the problem did not change cylinders then okay it is something wrong with the cylinder. It seems unlikely to me that they would do that. Most times (I am not sure about the boxster) the wires are different length. They usually can only reach one particular cylinder so swapping them between cylinders is physically impossible. When I had my misfire (loose connection) the engine ran fine until I pushed it hard. If I took it to redline and held it there for 30 seconds or so then it would start misfiring. If I never took it to redline it would run for hours without any problem. After the CEL came on if I shut the car down and let it cool off (15-30 minutes), disconnected the battery to clear the CEL, it was fine again.
  12. The fact that it runs okay for a while then acts up seems to me to point to an intermittent electrical problem. If it were a head problem you would not think that it would take a while for it to show up.
  13. When they changed the coil does that also change all of the wiring? If not maybe there is something wrong with the wiring from the ECU to the coil pack. Thinking about it I believe the wire is separate. I had this problem once myself (1998 2.5 too) after a plug change. Turned out to be a loose connection between the coil pack and the wiring harness.
  14. As they say opinions abound. It is interesting to note that for the 987 and 997 Porsche has extended the service interval to 20,000 miles or 2 years. Personally I change mine once a year or about 5000-7000 miles, but I also track my cars extensively.
  15. It does not matter which way the switch is oriented. I would unmount the switch and work the mechanism to see if it is sticking. Then see if the lights have gone out. If not then it sounds like you have a bad switch. The cruise probably does not work as it is seeing a brake on condition which automatically disconnects the cruise control.
  16. The manual states every 15000 miles or 2 years under "normal" conditions.
  17. I believe there were two versions of pilot sports, N rated and non-N rated. Then also there are the pilot sport 2's. Check the tires carefully to see which ones you have.
  18. While you can probably change the controller yourself you wont be able to bleed it as the car needs to be in ABS mode to do so. You need a porsche computer to do that. Theoretically you can do it by installing it, drive the car, activate the ABS, then bleed the brakes again. I am not sure that I would like to try that.
  19. Here is thread that talks about it. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=26&h=&t=60926
  20. No, on a LOKASIL or NIKASIL coated cylinder there is no measurable wear during break-in. It certainly does not make it oblong. If it did, you'd have a major problem, because NIKASIL coatings are only around 0.05mm thick. In fact, the whole idea of using a silicon-based coating is to make sure it is harder than the piston ring, so it is the piston ring that wears. Cheers, Uwe <{POST_SNAPBACK}> This sounds right to me. In my honda, which has a hardened aluminum block, when I had the head off at 150K miles, there was no appreciable wear in the cylinder. Popping the pistons out and putting them back in was a piece of cake. The honing also went very easily. I think that in the old days of cast iron blocks uneven cylinder wear was a problem. These days it isn't.
  21. I have Conti 2's on my TT. Dry grip is good. Wet grip sucks, at least on the track. However that may not equate very well to street use. I have not had any problems with them in the wet on the street but do not have any other tire brand experience yet to compare it to.
  22. You have to ask the tire shop if the have a "touchless" tire mounter. Usually a Hunter machine. For example if you buy your tires as Costco they are okay as they have such a machine.
  23. My boxster (58,000 miles) burns very little oil and I track it 30+ days a year. I have a honda accord with 285,000 miles that burns a little oil between changes. To each their own.
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