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deilenberger

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Everything posted by deilenberger

  1. That makes the $16 slip on cover even more attractive to my eyes.. :eek:
  2. Ah - "character" - some cars have it, apparently P!Gs have it in spades.. :) Thanks! One less thing to puzzle over.
  3. Humidity in NJ has been averaging around 50-70% for the past few weeks, with temps during the day in the high 80's to 100F. That pretty much means it's AC weather, and when the AC is running, apparently even if I manually switch to just face and foot vents, a bit of cool air is blown out through the defogger vents on the inside of the windshield. That causes the outside of the windshield to start forming patches of moisture, almost icing up, on the outside surface of the windshield. The P!G probably has the best AC of any vehicle I've ever owned, but it's a bit annoying to have to use the wiper to clear the windshield due to the misting up. Anyone else experiencing this? Or is one of my dampers not closing fully? Sometimes it gets bad enough that I punch the defrost button, and then am blasted with HOT air coming out of the windshield vents. That sorta puzzles passengers..
  4. :thumbup: The explaination by the Porsche tech is also pretty amusing. Seems like tech-blather.* Other German cars determine when the oil needs to be changed by the quantity of gasoline used. Drive it hard, use a lot of gas, the light turns on early. Drive it gently, be a gas miser and the light turns on later. No need for some overdone calculation of cooling capacity of the oil (I assume we're looking for a heat transfer rating - since different oils will have a different transfer rating, using that would seem rather silly.) * Tech-blather, salesman blather, etc.: The need to sound expert even if pulling fantasy out of thin air. Many auto-salesmen suffer from this disease, and some techs do also. :blush:
  5. Yes. I added a slip on cover, happened to find one in the same color as the interior. Makes it thick enough to grab comfortably.
  6. Nope. Lot of work to no good effect. Have you put the 200K kms on it yourself? If not - chances are fair that it's been replaced at some time when one of the fuel pumps failed..
  7. Just a comment/update. Since clearing the tube with the wire then air-pressure, with the AC running (in 70% humidity) the water now falls nicely to the ground and runs off in a stream about 2" wide. Before it would form a small puddle under the car. What comes out now is quite a bit of water actually compared to what I used to see. RFM - I assume you mean the sunroof drains. Where might the leaks arise? in the A pillar, down lower? Up near the sunroof? So far I've seen nothing. I guess I could try pouring water into the drain (common test on a BMW). On BMWs when they plugged up, the fix was to push weed-wacker string down the drain until it came out under the car (with the munge that was plugging the drain tube.) Weed wacker string is stiff enough to push, yet it won't easily puncture the tubing.
  8. I run the 275-50/19's that are stock on the Titanium edition, and with ServoTronic - the steering is amazingly light at parking lot speeds (it firms up as you go faster.) Speed sensor might well be worth thinking about, but bet it gets it from one of the modules like the PSM/ABS module.
  9. RFM - where exactly are the sunroof drains, and where do they run? I know about the rear ones coming apart, I assume there are some going down the A-pillar? Where do they come out under the truck?
  10. Great photos - especially of the tube. Since I didn't pull mine out of the firewall, I wasn't certain what sort of seal is on the end. I suspect the end seal is just to keep insects from climbing up the tube, and to keep treated air from rushing out of the tube. It's also easy to see how the end might get displaced from the hole in the firewall, doesn't look like there is much holding it in. Perhaps some trim adhesive when reinstalling it might keep it in place. Where it's located under the dash, if someone poked a toe up under the under-dash-panel, they could easily displace the tube... I think I'll have to look some more at mine and make sure it's firmly in the firewall hole. This is turning out to be a useful thread.. :)
  11. I don't believe there is a recommended replacement schedule. With fuel-injection, the fuel filters can last forever if you always get high quality clean gasoline, or can fail 5 minutes after you put one in if you get a tank of crap. I can't recall hearing of one on the Cayenne plugging up, although I'm sure it has happened. Assuming your Cayenne is a 2006 or earlier model, It's not a trivial thing to replace (I don't know how the 2008 models are done.) There are a lot of hoses/wires going to it inside the tank (it is the thru-tank connector for the fuel pump on that side) and it requires R&R of the other side, which is the fuel-pressure-regulator (due to the hoses). The filter and FPR are held in with a rotating locking ring that requires a special tool to remove/replace (some people DO it with a hammer and dull screwdriver - but that isn't really a recommended way), and it also calls for new gaskets for both when they're removed/replaced. It also requires removal of the seat-belt bracket in the rear seat and cutting the carpeting under the seat to access it. The good old days of two hose clamps and replace a filter are unfortunately - long gone (although Porsche does make it exceptionally interesting to replace - BMW ones I've replaced are much simpler to do..) Oh - suggestion, adding your name, location, and year/model of your P!G in your sig is useful since we then don't have to guess about what model/year/version your truck is.. like right below here:
  12. If it's AC water - the hose is either damaged, or perhaps loose on the plastic fitting on the HVAC housing. A tie-wrap would likely fix loose. I went and looked again today. To pull the carpet up, just take a dull something (I use body trim removing tools - plastic - from Harbor Freight - $8, identical to some P-vendors sell for $30) and push them under the door sill horizontally, then pull it vertically and the carpet will bunch up and start showing the edge of the sill trim where you can grab it. The carpet only goes about 3/8"-1/2" under the sill trim. It also is just under the edge of the kickplate on the right side. You can sorta see the edge of the carpet in my photo and how it's pulled out from under the trim. As mentioned - I looked under the carpet again today - the rubber is basically dry now. I opened the duct as far back as possible (about even with the front edge of the seat pedestal. There are no connectors in it. Just wires. Lots of wires. Some fiber too I think. It was bone dry inside. While I had the dash underpanel removed (1 T15 torx screw), I took my air-gun to the drain tube, it's completely clear. I did take my air-gun (off my compressor) and make certain the drain path under the hood hinges was open. I then popped off the front part of the extended sill trim the Ti series has, the upper part pops right off with the same trim removing tool. It has little plastic nipples that go into rubber grommets in the body. I'd found this before when looking for drains - and found it full of leaf crap and rotted whirlygigs (seeds from maple trees.) I'd cleaned out that - but some more minor crap was still there. Once I did this, I took a bucket of water and poured it on the right (starboard) side of the windshield. As expected, it runs down by the hinge, and very quickly emerged on the ground from the area under the trim I'd pulled off. I tracked down a cast-in duct on the extended sill trim, and made certain it was not clogged. Before, water used to drip out of this area for quite a while after a rainstorm.. now it runs right out. Papagut - I'm curious, where were the connectors that gave you problems? I can't find any on the section running up the back of the firewall (the big cable appears to head toward the fuse box area, but I didn't drop the glovebox to make sure..) and the other end runs back under the front seat (going who knows where.. I imagine some of the wiring comes out under the seat for the DVD-GPS player and the seat electronics.)
  13. I did as far back as I could (it goes under the seat pedastal), and no - it appeared to just be a wiring duct.. The wiring just about filled it up, no real room for connectors that I could see. Luckily, it was pretty much dry - it stands up off the actual body sheet metal by about 1/4". Pulled the carpet back up this AM. The top (fuzzy part) of the carpeting is dry. The foam still had a bit of moisture in it, so I put the AC on and used a heat-gun to pump hot air into the under-carpet area. Plus I tried stuffing some dry towels in under the carpet, then compressed the foam. After doing that.. there weren't any "wet" areas I could find. Still some dampness, which I'm hoping the AC dries up in a day or two. What's interesting - before the AC used to dump a puddle after the car was parked, rather slowly draining. Now it appears it drains out as almost a stream, no puddle, just a stream draining across my driveway if the AC is on. I may take my air-hose to the HVAC drain and make absolutely sure everything is cleaned out. What I can't fathom is how water from outside the car could get to the footwell area. The windshield drains around the hood-hinges. A rather silly looking foam dam keeps the water from getting to the HVAC intake (which is on the starboard side under the cowl, and raised about 3") and whatever the electronics box is that's under there (a Bosch control unit of some sort.) It should run right down through the fender. Even if that passage was plugged up, it would seem it could get around the foam dam, and simply drain into the engine compartment. I did see a single hole that went through the most external part of the firewall right below the hinge area, but the water would have to back up several inches deep to get into that hole, and the hole was about 1/4-3/8" in diameter. I may poke around my box of plastic crap and see if I can find a plug that fits that hole, just in case. We've had some rains of biblical proportions in NJ lately, so I guess it's possible it reached that level..
  14. I was thinking with all the torrential rains we've been getting that perhaps it might be a wise idea to check the passenger floor, since I've seen mention of flooding on that side. I pulled up the floor-mat and found the floor was wet, as in quite wet. What to do? First I looked under the hood. The windshield drains around each of the hinges on either side of the hood.. and it basically looks like it just runs down inside the fender housing and dribbles to the ground. I released and pulled up the plastic cowling on the passengers side that seals the bottom of the windshield. If you remove the two twist locks, you can bend the plastic up enough to see what's going on without having to remove the entire thing (which would require R&R of the wiper arms..) I found a formed foam dam that was supposed to direct water down into the fender innards - (crappy design IMHO) and it was totally plugged with several handfuls of leaf munge/nuts/twigs. I scooped out as much as I could, then I got the industrial shop vac and vacuumed out a lot more. I finally made sure the passage was open by poking a large diameter (10 gauge) insulated wire down the water path. I checked the drivers side just for fun, and it's harder to get to since the wiper linkage is in the way, but it looked clear on that side. I also vacuumed out the little drain in the center recess for the wiper eccentric linkage for the port side wiper. I then attacked inside. I took down the kick panel under the AC, and pulled off the AC drain hose from the HVAC housing. It appeared free, but to make absolutely certain, I used my #10 wire again to poke out until I could feel and hear it in the engine compartment. I then pulled the carpeting out from under the door sill, and the port side kick plate. I found there is a large wire bundle going through the area, which is located in an elevated plastic tube/tunnel on the floor. As it goes up the firewall, it turns into a cloth wrapped cable. I opened up the tube/tunnel, and happily, all was dry there. What was wet was the massive amount of foam rubber that forms the bottom of the carpet and the lining for the floor. There must be 2" of foam rubber under the carpet. Several towels were soaked as I sopped up the water, squeezing the foam rubber to make it release the water. The water was clear and no-smell, so I suspect it was from the HVAC drain. I then took my industrial shop vac and sucked a lot of water out of the foam rubber. While I was in the area, I decided to add a drain. The lowest point of the floor has a body plug in it. I can't get to the other side of the plug since it's above the extra trim that the Titanium package has (the extended body sill trim).. so I cut a hole in it. As I continued sqeezing water out of the foam, it happily drained right out the hole I made. Since it's above the sill trim, I suspect unless I start submerging the Cayenne, it isn't going to cause any leakage into the vehicle. For those who haven't had this happen, or those who have (it's not uncommon) - I'd suggest making the drain hole. Only takes a minute, and can be done with a pocket knife.. I'm going to check the rear seat area, and the port (drivers) side to see if the same drain can be done. It might be sufficient to simply make the X cuts in the plugs, that would allow any small amount of water that gets in to drain out, and would restrict ingress of water if the floor gets submerged..
  15. I prefer to think of it as the "port side" - since some people think LEFT looking at the engine, rather then the left side of the car.. :thumbup:
  16. Loren, I think those instructions don't include where they're draining it from. The instructions are for bleeding a dry system.. I seem to recall some instructions in the factory manual involving disconnecting a hose to drain the system while filling it up top..
  17. Simplest way to do it is simply empty and refill the PS reservoir several times. You won't get everything out, but it will look lots better. Make sure you use the correct Pensotin fluid.. the wrong stuff can destroy the pump and steering rack.
  18. I guess it depends on where you live.. my BMW Touring has them on the rear windows.. I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of times they've been used on the Touring in 105,000 miles. I suspect with the darker factory tint on the Cayenne rear windows there would be even less reason to use them on the P!G.
  19. Pipes done by a dealer? Anything under $2k is a deal. There are independents in NJ who will do it for less.
  20. Turbos apparently run hotter then the S model.. his doesn't look abnormal from what other people have reported. My S does run right at 180F no matter what the conditions (including crossing the Mohave desert in July..)
  21. The GW500/BTA1500 combo works fine for me. I don't know if the microphone cable will be long enough, I mounted my GW500/BTA1500 up under the dash up front (I retained the CD changer with the extra fiber cables.) Be worth calling the vendor you're going to buy it from, or Dension and asking them. Mine works fine with a HTC Droid phone. I've tried it with an iPhone, and it also seemed to work. There are some tricks involved in getting the volume correct, there are some slightly confusing writeups on the Dension website. Changing the microphone sensitivity involves sending one set of codes to the BTA/phone, changing the speaker volume another set. When you get them right, there is no problem with echo (I have the microphone mounted just to the side of the upper center console in the headliner, clipped to the edge of the headliner, pointed toward the driver. I also have USB memory sticks with music on them, but I found the interface is easier to use if you hook up an iPod. I found a 4th generation one that needed a slight repair (I did it myself) for $20.. and I particularly like the playlist feature, since you can create these on the iPod, or on your computer and upload it to the iPod. I very rarely listen to anything else now. The iPod lives in the center console where I ran the cables, and hasn't been touched in months.
  22. I have no idea what an "opc" is - but whatever it is, he's fullacrap. It's single wall construction. Getting the fuzzy off the inside is a bit of a PITA, best done with the plastic trim removal tools that aftermarket vendors sell (Porsche vendors get about $50 for the kit - which is IDENTICAL to the kit from Harbor Freight for $6...) You have to pop clips out of the retaining holes in the door - and it's way easy to break the inside plastic holding the clip to the fuzzy liner without the right tool (which slips around the clip and pries it out.)
  23. I'd be looking at replacing your reservoir cap. It has a pressure relief in it to avoid that sort of problem. It's also cheap - any car parts store has one for about $7.. (it's a common VW part..)
  24. It may be a one-time use breaker.. on BMWs there is an explosive disconnect that disconnects all electronics except lights, windows, flashers - if the airbags go off. The "emergency" circuits are routed around it. When the disconnect blows, the entire cable must be replaced. Sounds as if Porsche does the same thing, but using a seperate device that can be replaced rather then having to replace the entire cable. forumoto - you might want to check where the power steering fluid went to..
  25. Went looking yesterday and can't find anything that looks like the illustrations.. my Cayenne has the sport design body kit (Titanium model) - which has extended sill trim. What I did find is a lot of detrius (ie - crap) behind the front wheel arch liners. I wondered why after it rained I'd see a slow drip for quite a while out of the corner by the trim and wheel liner.. Well, I pulled out the bottom of the wheel arch liner (remove a couple of T25 screws).. and found: I then found that part of the lower trim easily popped out exposing the area.. This is the other (port) side: And after cleaning it out with an air-gun, and eventually a hose.. I was happy to find there was no rust. I suspect the crap was from dirt/eaves/whirlygigs that wash down the windshield and into the plastic at the lower corners of the windshield. After 6 years of stuff washing down, this was the result. The plastic pieces popped right off using a trim removal tool (the blue plastic lever thing) - I'll eventually be replacing the rubber grommets that the trim mounts pop into.. have to visit my friendly local dealer and order a bunch. Apparently the lower door trim is attached the same way. I wonder what's behind that trim? Now - does ANYONE have photos of the drains that were mentioned above?
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