clarksongli

Tools needed: T20 Torx driver A few flat blades or knifes Soldering Iron Solder Solder wick or desolder tool Parts Needed: http://www.westfloridacomponents.com 1/4W 0.22 ohm Mini-Melf Resistor Beyschlag MMA0204-50AL0R22J - 6 IRFZ24NS FZ24NS HEXFET Power MOSFET International Rectifier - 2 Step 1: Remove Lower panel under drive side. One screw in the middle Step 2: Locate module closest to the center of the vehicle. Module will be installed SIDEWAYS next to the module that has 4 connector ports Step 3: Once module has been removed, use the screwdriver to loosen and eventually release the tabs along the side of the module. Easiest to start on one end. Step 4: Locate the two possible common failure points. MOSFETS will be located next to the blue capacitors in the corner. Resistors will be located on the BACKSIDE in the opposite corner. Step 5: Test the resistors. Use your multimeter and measure across the resistors. Unfortunately the top 3 and the bottom 3 are in parallel, so it is hard to tell when an individual has failed. Luckily they seem to fail all together, so if you see open circuit on your resistance measurement, just replace them all. Step 6: Carefully use your soldering iron to desolder the resistors. Clean the mades of any excess solder and resolder the new resistors. Step 8: Test the MOSFETs. Use your multimeter on DIODE mode (triangle with a flat line across the point). Red lead on SOURCE (right leg), black lead on GATE (left leg) = OPEN CIRCUIT Red lead on SOURCE (right leg), black lead on DRAIN (TOP or back pad) = .5V to .8V Again, desolder carefully and replace. The hardest part will be heating the DRAIN, or back of the MOSFET hot enough to desolder off the board. Don't worry about heat, MOSFETs are very robust compared to other parts. Step 9: Reinstall everything back into the car and DRIVE. Starting the car is critical, the KESSY module will not reset until you do so. Enjoy saving 1000 bucks!

Parts required: ( I did this as inexpensive as possible) Steel tow bumper bought on ebay (200bucks) 955-618-040-10 Control Unit 955-612-506-00 Wiring Harness PNA-955-118-93 Trailer Hitch Connector (this is the 7 pin Pollak connector) PNA 955-127-08 7-4 way Adapter N-909-892-01 bumper bolts (8) Tools required: Allen key set 10mm wrench screw driver 1/4" ratchet torx driver set flashlight 21mm socket torque wrench Step 1: Remove spare tire floor by pulling hatch out towards the rear. There are no bolts that hold this in. Step 2: Use the torx bits to remove the chrome tie downs on the passenger side as well as the bolt closest to the hatch Step 3: After removing the side carpeted piece, there will be two additional screws underneath that hold the vertical carpeting piece in Step 4: Remove pillar cover on passenger side. Pull plastic cover labeled "airbag" off and remove screw underneath. Carelly work cover free at the top first. Step 5: Remove the exposed screw on the lower portion of the pillar Step 6: Disconnect trunk light Step 7: Remove the passenger side net anchor screws Step 8: Pull the passenger side section down. The clips are very tight, so be careful when prying the plastic. This is where the clip locations are. Step 9: Slowly pry passenger side pillar cover off, starting at the top. Once you reach the speaker, be sure to disconnect the wire as shown. Step 10: Remove screw that is now exposed on the rear pillar Step 11: Carefully pull the passenger side carpet panel out as shown. Step 12: Use the flashlight and look in between the carpet panel and the inner fender well. Pull out the pre-located harness plug, roughly half way in towards the front as shown. The plug is RED Step 13: Pull out and connect to the module. Plugs are specific so it will only fit into the center plug. Leave hanging for later use. Step 14: Remove both tail light allen bolts on the inside of the hatch area. They will be covered by two plastic plugs as seen below. Step 15: Carefully pry tail lights straight out towards the rear. There are 2 clips, one forward, and one rear on each lense. Disconnect harness and set aside. Step 16: Remove both torx screws on the bumper cover that were previously under the tail lights Step 17: In each fender well, remove the torx screws, starting in the rear, moving to the top of the fender. No need to remove all of them, you just need to access a hidden screw under the fender liner. Step 18: Remove hidden screw on both sides in the fender well. This is somewhat difficult to access, the torx bit will be FACING towards the rear of the car, close to the 10 o'clock position in the fender well. Step 19: Remove the lower allen bolts in the bumper cover Step 20: carefully wiggle the bumper cover free. The parking assist sensors will still be plugged in, so don't completely remove. Once far enough out, locate and disconnect plug on the DRIVER side Step 21: Remove foam and sensors as one, and save for reinstall. Loosen 8 bolts holding on aluminum bumper and completely remove bumper. Step 22: Install new STEEL bumper with hitch. Torque bolts to 140 lb/ft Step 23: Reinstall parking sensors and foam on top Step 24: Install plug cover into harness Step 25: Remove plastic cover on bumper support, and use screws to attach harness and plug assembly. Step 26: Route harness along the bottom of the bumper support towards passenger side. Remove rubber grommet and replace with grommet already attached to the wire harness. The wire ties should be positioned perfectly to install in holes in the bumper support. Step 27: Grab harness on the interior side, and route up and over the factory cd changer to the existing plug you found early on. Plug into module. Step 28: Using screws, install module on top of existing electronics in passenger side area. There will only be 2 plugs even though there are three sockets on the module Step 29: On the bumper cover, there are marking where to cut the relief for the receiver as shown below. I made the cut with a sharp razor blade Step 30: Reinstall all components and panels in reverse order (have fun with all of this!) Step 31: Locate the right fuse box on the side of the passenger side dashboard. Install a 15A fuse in slot 1, 3, and 5 plus replace slot 19 with a 30A. FINAL STEP: IF YOU ARE LUCKY, the module ordered is already programmed for the US. Unfortunately, it seems like the dealerships are stocking the UK version. You will need someone with a porsche scan tool to reset the module to the US version (UK is the fold out version). If you don't have any errors on your dashboard, then you have the right US version. If you get a tow warning, you will need the module reset. ENJOY!!

Tools needed: T40 Torx bit 17mm Allen 10mm socket 12" extension 4" extension large flat head screw driver 10mm wrench IR thermometer Breaker bar fluid pump Coat hanger or heavy gauge steel wire Oil drain pan Lots of paper towels Parts: Transmission filter Transmission filter O-ring Pan gasket Fill plug gasket Drain plug gasket 9 Quarts of Toyota Type -IV ATF or Porsche approved fluid (Please see my other post showing the oil analysis proving type 4 is chemically identical) Step 1: Raise vehicle to terrain mode or jack vehicle up. BE SURE CAR IS LEVEL Step 2: Remove all 10mm bolts and set rear belly pan out of the way (i believe there 4 front, 2 center, and 2 rear bolts) Step 3: Remove rear metal shield on back side of transmission You will need a combination of ratchet and wrench to reach the two 10mm bolts Step 4: Use 17mm allen wrench to remove the drain plug. DO THIS FIRST, to be sure you have a way to refill the tranny prior to draining fluid. This plug will be very tight (steel plug in steel threads), so you might need the breaker bar at this point. Once loosened, there may be fluid that comes out, so position the drain pan. Step 5: Finally use the T40 torx to remove the drain plug, obviously collecting the fluid. Step 6: Once this fluid is drained, hand tighten the drain and fill plugs for safe keeping. Remove all 10mm transmission pan bolts(16 bolts). You will want to use a 12" extension to give you easy clearance while swinging the ratchet. Once all bolts are out, you will need to wiggle the pan free. BE AWARE THERE WILL STILL BE FLUID IN THE PAN! You may need to use the screwdriver to slowly loosen the pan gasket. BE SURE NOT TO PRY ON THE ALUMINUM SIDE! Step 7: Now Remove the 3 10mm bolts from the ATF filter as shown. THERE WILL BE FLUID IN THIS FILTER AS WELL. HAVE YOUR DRAIN PAN READY Step 8: Chances are the O-ring is still stuck in the transmission, make sure to remove this. Step 9: Take your new filter and O-ring and preassemble outside of the tranny Step 10: Reinstall new filter and O-ring assembly with the 3 10mm bolts....7.5lb//ft, just don't crank down on these. Step 11: CLEAN THE TRANSMISSION PAN....there are 5 magnets in the pan....wipe EVERYTHING clean including the magnets. There are dimples where the magnets should be located. Step 12: Once pan is clean, and magnet's placed back in correct locations, install the new gasket on the pan. Step 13: Reinstall pan and gasket. Tighten 10mm bolts to 7.5 lb/ft in an alternating pattern to ensure gasket seats evenly. Step 14: Make your fill tube by bending a piece of coat hanger or heavy gauge steel as shown. You want it to have a turn down tip to hook inside of the fill hole. Step 15: Install new gasket in drain plug, and torque to 21 lb/ft. Remove fill plug and set aside. HAVE YOU DRAIN PAN READY FOR NEXT STEPS! Step 16: insert "special" fill tube and begin pumping in fluid. You most likely will only get 3-4 quarts in before it starts to overflow out the hole. Step 17: start engine, and allow it to IDLE. Cycle through P, N, R, and D. Step 18: Pump in a little bit of ATF (1/2 quart maybe) then check temperature. Continue step 17 and 18 until the IR thermometer reads 40C. The pan will be within 1C of fluid temp. (I was a little lazy, so i pumped in more fluid when cold, brought the tranny up to temp, then let the rest drain back out....more wasteful but quicker). Step 19: Turn engine off and reinstall fill plug with new gasket. Torque to 52 lb/ft Step 20: Drive around to be sure you had a good fluid flush and there aren't other issues. Chances are you won't get all 9 quarts in.....i was able to get about 8 in. Step 21: Reinstall the rear metal protection plan with the 2 10mm bolts Step 22: Reinstall belly pans with 8 10mm bolts. ENJOY! Step 19: As you might realize, this takes a while to get the fluid in.

So i have had this annoying display with my 2004 CTT that my rear glass is open, when it really isn't. It would sometimes go away but could come back if i hit a large enough bump in the road. The particular annoyance happens every time you stop and start, it will beep at you again....OR the fact that you cannot lock and arm the car with the glass "open." Anyways this is how you can potentially resolve that issue: Tools needed: Your hands Adjustable wrench Step 1: Open the glass and remove the small plastic cover on the glass side as shown. You will want to get your fingers behind the TOP first, then pull the entire cover free. the clip are pretty strong, so it takes some force, just work it free evenly and slowly. Step 2: Now you have access to the latch on the left (metal hoop). You will want to use the adjustable to loosen the latch or nut. Once it's loose, you can turn it either in or out to make the adjustment needed. For me, i had to turn it OUT, loosening the latch. My guess is the rubber seal has become stiffer over the years, so it was pulling the latch away from the sensor. Reinstall plastic once you get the positioning correct and enjoy no more annoying messages or alarms every time you stop at a light.