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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    1
  2. pk2
    Huh, finny thing, I bought an oil drain pan at Kragen (Autozone clone) a few weeks ago. The guy at the counter asked me" what's that for?" . Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    Thats really interesting what Dharn said and would fit the bill except you don't believe you have water in your oil. I can't how Porsche would miss it but some grey sludge on the inside of the case, places like the dipstick, oil filler cap or other high spots open to the inside of the crank case. PK
  4. pk2
    You didn't mention you weekly mileage. They should have done a leak down test , be surprised if they didn't. also sniff the overflow tank for exhauste fumes. Due to your service vigilance you probably have fresh plugs, A little trick I learned years ago is that a water guzzling engine also happens to be very nice, well washed leaky cylinder. This means look for a nice shiny plug next to 5 crudy looking ones. Don't know if they teach this in Porshe school. You also, should see a hearty plume of white smoke at first startup. Also there can be a plume after abruptly letting off a full throttle As for a porous block or worn out block I'd find highly unlikely. Also Be aware metal expands when hot. In the case of a cracked head for instance, it can pretty much shut itself off once the engine is warmed up. (goes to milage per week) In favour of the leak theory, I've seen motors with external leaks that only show up when the water is hot and expanded and pushing at the door. However by the time they drip across the hot block the coolant evaporates to a degree. Doesn' explain oil in the water. Me I'd go to your indie guy. THey tend to go more by experience and horse sence then a rigid factory prescription. Regards, PK
  5. pk2
    I believe you right. That sounds loony. What if you move? In my case the local dealer shares records with my indie repair shop. Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    Mine lets out more like a hiss that last about a second, You might find someone with a problem free 98x series and swap caps for a half an hour or so see what happens. Regards, PK
  7. pk2
  8. pk2
    Looks intriguing. Is it suitable for earlier cars like mine? Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    I've had that problem several times. I pay a bit more and have my Indie do it. I've taken it to them with a cel light, they fix it, reset it and take it to there smog guy. Guess what...they don't put any mileage on it, certainly not 65 miles anyway. Had to do the same for my wifes car to, different make, different garage, still no milage. My point is, how do they clear a CEL and smog it without driving it a 100 miles? I've heard numbers more like 150-200 miles to resettle everything. Maybe a PS2 needs to be involved. Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    Ditto above. Good theroy But, I also have run my car bone dry a few, to no short or long term ill effect. I can certainly see the filter theory and, I can see something like a stuck electrical reset as the car adjusted to a leaner and leaner mix. 2 cents P.K
  11. pk2
    I believe, emphasis on the "believe" the cars transponder in the car is where the activity happens. Your key is essential a dumb bar-code. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    Check your trunk for anything rolling around. Other wise tell everyone under what circumstances it occures. Regards PK
  13. pk2
    Ditto Maurice You can also jump the starter directly from the (a) battery with jumper cables to rule it out. If you don't know the hows and wheres, better not. PK
  14. pk2
    You want to fix it but 99 in a pinch, sometimes you briskly yank the and brake up an down a everal times and get the light, ergo the top to work. Regards, PK
  15. pk2
    You have a bad clutch master or slave cylinder (possibly a broken fluid line). Anybody can repair/replace it for you. Shop around...say it's a VW & save a few. Best regards, PK
  16. pk2
    Check your tire pressure too...Regards, PK
  17. pk2
    You figure that will make a diff, I'm open, I'll wait for you DIY. Regards, Peter
  18. pk2
    At onetime I was going to try to adapt the brain of a $40 Ebay "electric window Kit" with one touch & automatic stop and retract. It only had about a 3 foot travel though before it stopped itself regardless. It was at that point though that I knew couldn't shell out for a $300 smart top...with the same logic. Some EE would probably tweak it for longer travel and jump it in...sell the plans? Regards, PK
  19. pk2
    You know what, maybe the top doesn't have this feature (shouldn't doubt a convertable wizard). I'm going to bet an automatic stop isn't necessary. There's alot of torque at the transmissions because of the torquey little motor but it's largely dissipated by the time it gets to the cantilevered "cutting edge" of the top. I'm going to guess you could close the top on your jugular and the motor would just grind to a halt..maybe. Easy to test with a 2x4. BTW: Did you ever figure out why your top wasn't stopping until you took your finger off the button? Regards, Peter
  20. pk2
    I think They have that feature Marice, Just like the windows. If they don't, I think electric windows jus have a breaker of sorts/ To much resistance draws to ma amps and a switch is temporarily opened. Regards, pk
  21. pk2
    Count me in. Some one does make them but there absurdly expensive. I no engineer but the rest of my family are (E.E) and I know it ain't worth near what there charging. "I can't abide". Looked into doing one myself. No time, but no big trick though. Regards, PK BTW: In my research on the same, there's a weird feature in that top. After the light comes on and you let go of the button. the motor continues to run for a split sec to cinch it closed (or open). Also in it's circuitry, there is a stop if something obstructs it. The people that make one are able to do it just as a replacement for the double relay.
  22. pk2
    Try, turning accessories on one at a time while running and see if you have a voltage drop that isn't corrected by the voltage regulator Also drive it around for a 1/2 hour and check the voltage while still driving turning nthings on and off. Further , I believe you can hook you DMM to about any 12v lead in the car (cigarette lighter comes to mind) while you drive around (or run the DMM wires directly off the battery and over or around the windshield to DMM, or even tuck it under the windshield wiper) Autozone does not hire the brightest. Fortunately their test equipment is designed with that in mind. I've never had them try any undue pressure, I attribute this to there not having any parts for it and, the car just befuddles them. Plus, don't work on commission where Ilive. Regards, PK
  23. pk2
    Your voltage numbers are normal in my opinion. As long as your not running under 12 your car is simply responding to demand...like after you've ringed it out stating it up. What does "wont start" mean? No cranking at all? Some? cranks but won't kick over? Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    My opinion is there is precious little you can bolt on to a box that will give it any more "punch" than never carrying more than a gallon in your gas tank. Regards, PK
  25. pk2
    It sounds like you have covered all the usual stuff. If your clutch switch is new and the symptoms are the same, you could jump it but I wouldn't hold my breath but it wouldn't hurt. It's not what I was describing, my thought only confirms it's not your starter. Intermittent electrical problems are the worst. The most likely problem from my standpoint is a bad or corroded connection. The easiest ones to check are the fuse and any related relays. I usually just pull and push the fuse into there sockets several times. Do the same for relays except pull it out and give it some good wraps on your driveway. Both wil either scrub of or knock loose corrosion. Regards, PK
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