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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    Juraj, I depends where you live. I have a buddy in LA at Torrance upholstery who does it. Talked to several shops that do it to out here to. One way to gage if you want a completely new top is use this rule of thumb. A top will live about twice as long as a window. So if you top has the original window, if the price is right, go for a window. FYI, I was low on funds last summer and needed a window. I tried stitching...no dice. For the 'elluva it I glued a window in with a 3m adhesive. I no real expectations but a year later its just fine. A little tricky and takes some time ( I tried 4 different glues and 2 window ($27 a pop) till I got it right. I'm going to live with it till it quits, then take stock in the whole thing Regards, PK
  2. pk2
    Brake pads are one 'ellva lot cheaper than trans. and engines. If youy spent 25% of your time free wheeling up to stops, down hills and the like, that would be almost 25% less friction & load on your transe and engine every year. Regards, Pk P.S. Of course I'm not saying coasting down long hills rideing the breaks all the way.
  3. pk2
    The very first thing you need to do is see the mechanisms. Because your top will not go into the service position (closed but for 12 inches), you'll have to reach down to the connecting rods on either side of the top behind the c pillars and pop one end off (ball and socket). Then you can manually put the top wherever you want. There 2 cables, one on either side that hold the back of the top down. Pop these off at there source (bal & socket) and you can raise the back of the top up. There you'll find a view of everything..Look for obvious first. You could really use a manual because my directions aren't very descriptive. Also do a search here or on Renntech, one has a whole section devoted to the subject. Let us know what you find. Regards, PK
  4. pk2
    I'f got a radio (that probably doesn't work) and amp out of a 99. no use for it but could use a trunk rear "Boxter" emblem. PM me we'll work somthing out, be happy to be rid off it . Regards, PK
  5. pk2
    Hello, Try Silver star recycling in Sacramento. There prices are the best I've seen and I think they offer a toke 3 month warranty. Bear in mint that unless the engine takes a direct hit to, it;s unlikely to be a problem. But, this is completely unscientific . I'd be a little Leary of a car with a head on collision. It seems like it could be a traumatic shock to the motor because of the motor coming to an abrupt and complete stop at say 3k rpm's. On the other hand, probably no worse than reving it up and doping the clutch Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    Bently, don't know (don't have) but it's hard to imagine it being worse than the $15 cd. Renntech; No pictures, no bugging people with stuff you coulda' found or should'a found yourself. + the more resources the better. The cheap CD seems to cover most stuff but, it's nearly impossible to find. Amusing the factory manual is the same, at least you can flip through the whole thing with a keen eye to find stuff. The other thing is the illustrations, many have no context or point of reference. I'd like to see the Bentley manual. If it is very specific (unlike chiltons and the like which seem to borrow from a generic bank for many illustrations and pics). My 2 cents. PK
  7. pk2
    I hope wvivary's diagnosis is wrong to.. Common sense would predict that sort of failure would occur while under load but... The clatter alone at cold start is fairly common. Your lifters have drained and just need to get pumped up. Could be part of something bigger to, though. Good luck PK
  8. pk2
    Mine was drowned 3 times. The first after it sat drowned and idle for a month, it was dead and looked it. The other 2 times I nabbed it within a couple of days, dried it out and was of to the races. The last was 4 years ago. Still works fine. PK
  9. pk2
    Hello, If you nabbed the box quick enough and really dried it out (give contacts a good clean while your at it) your probably ok. ( if it has a lot of corrosion you probably are not (it looks O.K. in pics)). Also, if there is any surface corrosion (looks like mold, wire brush (with tooth brush like brass) with contact cleaener. Can''t hurt. I know of no way to test it outside of the car. Just plug it in and see if it goes. I don't know about a junkyard unit but I had an indie shop diagnose and put a new one in for about $450. I bet the dealer is twice that. While the source of the problem is probably the drains on either side of the engine hatch. Do yourself a favor though, dill a few 3/8 holes around the low spots in floor back there. Prime them and you'll never have to worry again. Then hunt down the leak. Regards, PK BTW
  10. pk2
    Has any body had a modded engine/car smogged in Orange County Ca. lately? Had a good experience? If so, where and, how did you pull it off ( lame or lazy tech?)? My car sniffs clean but there is no way it will pass a visual. From underneath you could mistake the supercharger for something else. From up top though, the plumbing just would not compute. Please post or PM if you like (don't want to blow anyones cover) with any leads. Regards
  11. pk2
    i go to a place in Costa Mesa called Porsche Srausse (I think), Been around for a long time and have never done me wrong. PK
  12. pk2
    One word...Porsche. call first and say you got a VW something...crop the Porsche out of your pic and show it. Or dress way down, don't wash your car, through some burger king bags around inside, lie about the year, little stuble goes a long way to. Spin a sob story. I had my rear bumper done (much worse than yours) for about $400.Don't know about up there but here theres mobile bumper repair rigs all over the place, Just had both my Lexus bumpers done over by a mobile guy for $500. Go to a good detail shop/carwash and they probably have some recomendatins. Regards, PK
  13. pk2
    Piece of cake repair...shop around. Regards, PK
  14. pk2
    Shihiman I doubt it's your motor.. If you jiggled it around and got it to move...it works. There are 3 or 4 common problems with these tops and the motors are not one. The top light just means something messed up...we know that (I can't get mine to go out but the top works). Technically theres are 3 switches that get tagged during an open or close cycle. Any one of them being bad or not tripped can keep your light on..and more...compplicated. If you haven't yet, put the thing in “service mode” which is done (if I remember correctly) by opening the top about a foot or so till the clamshell rises about 9 inches, you can then reach in and find a cable on each side that holds the back of the top taunt and down, They pop off (ball joint thing). You can now lift the back of the top up and see all. Look at the”L” shaped lever arms for the top on either side of engine cover compartment. They should be positioned EXACTLY as mirror images. If one is a bit off this will say much. Also make sure the “tie-rods” from these levers are not cracked at the ends. Good luck PK Maurice where are you?
  15. pk2
    The only real big difference I know of is the “transmissions”. Newer ones are different in that they have...um the stop switches built in(?) and maybe a full round gear (?). At some point the geometry of the top was changed to accommodate a glass rear window. Also at some point they put in better cables that don't stretch. For the most part though their not “radical” changes. The functions are the same as far as your problem is concerned. Your observations are keen in that you interpreted your dimming lites as an indicator of a big draw on your battery. Either you have something (softball, in the gutter, your missing drill etc) blocking the top mechanisms travels or, the mechanism is fighting itself. This may be evidenced by a tweaked clam shell cover as it winds open. For the immediate, put the top in service mode and disconnect the tie rods (with little ball sockets on the ends, going to the top structure from transmissions). Then you can see all in the top mechanism and look for the common problems youv'e seen described here. You can also operate your top manually until you figure it out. Regards, PK
  16. pk2
    Junninc probably has it right, but I always give the any wire connections a good jiggle before I replace anything. Pull them apart and plug them back together a few times. Use some contact cleaner if you have it. If you live near the ocean or it rains a lot connectiors can be a particular problem in any car Regards, PK
  17. pk2
    Find Maurice and or follow my top related posts here or on the 986forum. One of these forums has whole section devoted to this issue. Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    Scott, All of above is true and has happened to me. However, If you have a leaky joint in your exhaust pipes (you may not hear it) condensate can drip out of it. Happened on BMW, can leak quite a bit of h20...for blocks. Freaked me out for awhile. Regards, PK
  19. pk2
    There you are Marice. Its a pain but if you can build a house or read a blue print you can sort this out. When your done you'll marvel at how simple it really was. As tool pants said, you first need to get it in the service position and familiarize your self with the components (levers, cables, tie-rodss, etc) Everything has probably been covered here or on one of the other Boxster forums. “Maurice” is the man you really want to talk to or do a search of my threads. I went through the gamut last year on line (here I think) Regards, PK
  20. pk2
    Hello Toolpants, Fascinating, what a bizarre feature. What else might not work correctly in this state? (might explain alot) My caris a 99 so I doubt it is a dealer "Hand over" issue. I seem to recall it behaving correctly before an accident and before the security box under the drivers seat was replaced (soaked). Could the installation off the box and whatever programing is required involve this function? (Giving the potential for a goof). Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    Hello, I have the exact same problem. How do you get it out of transit mode? Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    Mine is at noon 24-7 too. takes about 10 mins. to get there. PK
  23. pk2
    Don't use ATF. I, like some others, use Swepco 715. Though no one officially sanctions it, go to their web site and you'll see a looooong history of their association with Porsche Racing. Cecile, a regular on PPBB, will back me up, he's been using it in his Porches for decades. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    CJ Measuring from the outer edges of my Turbo twists, I have 18 x 8.5 in. front and 18 x10in. rear with no problem, in fact I have 7mm and 13mm spacers front and back respectively. Still plenty of room to spare. I put them on but don't recall what they came off of. Regards, PK
  25. pk2
    Ignition switches are a common fault. If your man can't read the ECU, did you check the voltage going to it? I've had this happen a half a dozen times...can't rember the causes though. I know a couple were the result of my security box getting drenched...you can reach under the drivers seat and see if it's wet down there. Regards, Peter
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