pk2

You don't have a sticky button do you? like the trunk or something you might not notice". I'd take it a part, look for corrosion, a bent contact moisture, etc. There are no moving parts except the battery contacts and the key stem if its loose. Regards, PK

IF you drive at really low RPM's you might make it. If the screech stops, best not roll on, no water pump (among others less critical things. PK

Might try taking the belt off and spinning all the pullys by hand. If that dosn't tell you anything, put a socket extension on a fast electric drill and withe the right size socket for each component on the belt and wind it up.. I think your prob is a seized bearing on the pulley circuit causing the belt to screech. You can also look for "skid markes on the pulleys. Could also be a really winy bearing (electric drill thing should tell you that. Don't drive to far from home anymore. PK

Some Indies can program them, and if they can, they'll set you up with a new one for a fraction of the price. By the way you did all the right things except you didn't do it soon enough. I think I's gone (especially if you saw rust or white fuzz inside). My ad vice is this: - find and indi that can provide you with a new one and program it (match it to your car, ignition , etc.) with a a ps2 or whatever. -clean the drains on either side of your engine hatch and up by the battery with a coathanger and compressed air. -Make sure the lining around the back drains is intact (I think Maurice has a good dyi on this). -This gets controversial (love to hear why)but I know It' saved my as_ many times: Drill a couple 1/2 holes right behind the brain and all around it if you want.. Debur and prime the crap out of them, top and bottom. You will never have to worry about a leak again. -close it up and blast all the seals (since you don't have to worry a leak any more if you have one any more (above). Probably won't find it/them, most likely leak though is the clog drains. The brain will take about 2 days underwater (remarkably) but if you don't nab it and do what you did after that it's gone. Regards, PK

If your pretty dam good with cars, put a battery in it ancrank it over. Even if it won't start you'll know if it had one of the catastrophic failures. There pretty durable cars otherwise. But if you can,t open the door,runaway, you'll spe d yourself silly. Pk Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk

I think that's a bit steep. I had one ages ago. I don,t recall anything remarkable about steering or braking. I seem to recall the shift linkag needing attention. I think you may have sick baby on your Hands, pk Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk

Thanks all…my computer threw a …IMS on me. Been gone awhile Quite a divergence; 40 to 180k for the whole shot. With 37k on my car and a lot of double clutching, very little fanning, for $200+ I guess it's worth a few minuets to compare my clutch thickness measurements with a new one. Regards, PK

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Thank you, Are pressure plates pretty durable (assuming a clutch hasn't warn to the rivets)? and is there a spec for minimal...tolerance(?) or thickness for a clutch plate? Regards, PK

Hello, I'm looking at a replacement with 5spd. trans. with 70k on it and which supposedly has good sychos. (no crunching and no howling) and am wondering about how much more life is likely on it. -What kind of life can be expected from and early 98 5spd (with 70k)? -Will it stay that way for another 15-20k with mainly easy shifting? -Can sychros go out with a bang or just fade on these? -Are they known to just fly apart at all? Clutch: -Also, does Porsche have a recommended interval for a clutch change? -What life can really be expected for a clutch? -Tolerances? -Any reason to replace pressure plate at 37k? Regards & thanks, PK

Mine blew out sometime ago at about 75 (fortunaly into the car, my sons lap to be exact) I didn' notice anything different at the time. I haven't put it back in but I often wonder if it would be be making any difference. Driving fast with a passenger without it is a contemplative affair. I guess its like the wing for me "is it doing anything...is it really even up?" no way to reasonably tell. Regards, PK

I second Loren and txholkie4lifr, Bad electrical connection. I'd start at the batterry although I've run my car with the ground strap completely off and don't recall the any thing going batty. Your click click is clasic low battery or bad ground (ground on battery is very susceptible to corrosion) but really shouldn't freak your dash out. Lorens theory might explain that better, it could also be down stream at a solenoid too. Regards, PK

Mine was hit almost identically but with more damage to the sill and less behind the door technically totaled and it was repaired.... It cost about 7k to repair about 8 yrs. ago (goes to value). I had a good relation with the shop and paid cash) did some lightweight lifting my self to. Mine required pretty much what yours would,. What can tip the scales is the little stuff under the surface, It really adds up. There alot of stuff behind your rear 1/4. It also depends on the insurance company. If you love your car (like I did...well, I knew it well) you can let them total it and buy it back pretty cheap, then find a shop that can work with you (sob story...no insurance...etc). Your frame is bent even though you can't see it . Tolerances are tight so you need to make your shop know that you know. Regard, PK

In my car if you reach up under the middle of the bumper you find the end of the cable that runs from the latch to the latch release. I just grip it good and yank Regards, PK

Sounds like a thing called a Bendix in your starter although 30 seconds is kinda long. The bendix is kinda intermittent to. But it does make a teeth gritting screech just as the car kicks over. It's not real hurting anything if that is the problem. Regards, PK

Thanks...I made it all up... (kidding) It's been a long time since I cared about this stuff. Best not to quote me. There was a guy around here with 2.5l with 110k mi, and twin turbos at about 300whp...don't know what happened to it...or him So am I, really curious what goes bad and why in these things. Love to know more about this one. I want to build a GT "also ran" one day that won't blow apart. It's seems 67 HP per hole isn't unreasonable. They do more in Subaru's. 700whp out of a 1.8 turbo and they don't break! Are you sure? If the engine held together I'd think the drive train would twist itself into a pretzel. amazing. Stock Mahle pistons eh, I wonder how they stack up against whatever the Box has. I've see some wasted pistons out of other FI cars but Mikes are the first out of a Box. Water injection For the Box, I think its great: Something must have got lost in translation. Maybe it's my acronym "WI" it = WATER/meth INJECTION. Maybe should be WA. I'm a big believer. I schooled myself on the minutiae of the science and built a pretty trick system (now sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get interested again and find time). The whole engine pretty much has to be rtuned As I tried to state, there is really no place to put an effective air to air intercooler set up in that car, unless you kiss your trunk goodbye, butcher it up & turn half of it into a big plenum. With that said, air-to-air has a nice advantage of having no moving parts ergo no maintenance. But for the box, WI wins hands down Sorry for the misunderstanding, PK

Thats really in interesting Mike. I've never seen the sort of damage FI can inflict on one of these motors (assuming it was the fi).. What do you attribute the ring issue to, an over heated charge(I.E insufficient inter-cooling)? Ovaloid cylinders, sort of an over-force projeced in the wrong direction (detonation or over compensated timing? doesn't look like really excessive wear or slap on the pistons? Will the sleeves mitigate this problem if an unavoidable byproduct of FI? and "D" chip potential? I ask because I want to build a back up engine for what I sort of consider the inevitabilities of my current setup. Regards, PK P.S. if you happen to find out the circumstances of this failure it could be pretty instructive to some of us .

Mile, You'll never fit an effective, reliable inter-cooler in a Boxster unless you want to give away your trunk, do a lot of fabrication and have a lot of performance robbing plumbing. WI is really the only, and incidentally superior, option. Regards, PK

DR. Not to diminish your own basic premise as I happen to agree more less (my car has a blower) but your observations need a little follow through Many arn't. Porsche started fiddling with AluSil in the mid 70's and did a nice job of it easily accommodating 250-300 hp ( the block doesn't care if the h.p is through normal aspiration or FI). It doesn't mater the material, it maters how it is engineered for strength. Cast Iron blocks can and do crack all over the place. . The ECU should prevent most detonation BUT your half right, it doesn't prevent severe heat build up in the combustion chamber. This is why the boxsters boost is set at a mere 4-5 PSI. (as opossed to a 15-20 in low compression cars). I can tell you the best critical measurement off cylinder combustion chamber temp, EGT's (exhaust gas temps) are well within range at a 4 psi boost in my car. Further, if you upped the boost or wanted to be really safe, you simply add a WI (water/meth. injection or"liquid inter-cooling") to eliminate excess heat (you can drop the temps 100-200f without much fuss) to below stock. To the best of my knowledge Porsche does have sodium cooled valves. They did in 1970 (my first build) and also did in '79,( the last I checked). Again, at 4 PSI the EGT's are comfortable, ergo inside the combustion chamber and everything near it are at a comfortable temp. Were I to track my car I would add WI (water injection) for peace of mind. For the record, I'ts usually the pistons that go first in a poorly set up FI car. Significance? What car doesn't? ( For the record, I'ts the pistons that go first in a poorly set up FI car.) Definitely the preferable route, one I'd prefer, but, here I am, it's 81f ambient and PCH is calling... Regards, PK

I have one. A supercharger anyway. Great fun. I mutter a hail Mary every time I take it out though and with good reason I think. -First the ol' 2.5 can barely hold itself together as it is. It wasn't designed for a whopping 100 more hp. So logic says... - If you live in a state like mine, every 2 years It's time for an exhaustive smog test. You can make it run clean but if they can figure out where the engine is and bother to have a look and see all that plumbing, you get to have it returned to stock by the state at your expense...or donate it for scrap for your favorite charity. Regards, PK Mike, Did you go above 4-5 psi and if so did you have methanol/h20 injection?

About $12K Regards, PK

One of the relays (may be more) is a double wide thing (the only one up there) above the fuses.. If I have time I'll look up the number (s) It ought to be here somewhere...dyi, hacks,, look around) PK

I looked around and everything looks to be normal. No jumpers, no cut wires....... Kinda pulling my hair out here..... :cursing: Do a search for the hack (top/handbrake). I believe it involves bending a terminal on the back of one of the relays (so it makes no contact) and running a ground wire into the back of the same relay. Neither would really be visible with out some messing around. Regards, PK

Thanks for the overview. Sounds like fun. The disconnect battery havoc sounds hairy. Odd in that I’ve had the battery disconnected or flat dead without issues many times… guess there’s always a first. No the head doesn't function at all. To be honest I haven’t even got down to look at fuses and the like and don’t relish looking at the back of the thing as it’s been raining. Disconnection and re-connecting plugs is my fave, The theroey is the sliding action of the male and female pins can scrape corrosion off each other. Sunny tomorrow, I’ll get in there for a look and post what I find. Regards, PK

(Did a search but found nothing pertinent so…) As the title says, the Climate control/head is dark and nothing on it functions. This occurred sometime shortly after replacing O2 sensors, fiddling with some fuses a bit and disconnecting the bat. for ten mins. (to get the car running again). I seem to recall yrs. ago fiddle-faddling with the buttons on the head once to accomplish something profound but can't remember what. Am I looking at such a solution and if so what, or am I looking at fuces , relays or worse…Thoughts appreciated? Regards, PK