Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Dharn55

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    845

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Dharn55

  1. Dharn55
    I don't think that Sunset (which is a great vendor) has a on-line catalog. Here is a link for another on-line catalog that is useful in looking up parts, give both the list and a discounted price. The discounted price is usually about the same as the pricing at both Sunset and Suncoast. http://www.porscheoemparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215405
  2. Dharn55
    I don't think the AC diagnostic trick will work anyway. It gets the input from some sensors somewhere, probably the same ones that the speedometer uses. There may be less of an error, but there will be some. And as the size of the tires varies the input from the sensors will also vary.
  3. Dharn55
    This is typically caused by a plugged drain for the well that contains the top. Do a search and you will find a DIY for fixing it. You have to take off the rear wheel, take the plastic shield in front of the wheel partially off and behind there you will find the outlet for the drain. It is probably clogged with sediment. Clean it (I would do the other side at the same time) and the problem will go away. The thing is you need to do this right away. If not the water will get to the electronics under the drivers seat and then you will have a much bigger problem. This is also true for the passenger side. Here is the link:
  4. Dharn55
    Different 18" tires will have different diameters depending on the size. On the Tire Rack site you can look a the specs for each tire and you will see the revolutions per mile. Some examples of this for a PS2: 265/35-18 815 265/40-18 790 295/30-18 832 295/35-18 797 So you can see that several percentage points in the speedometer error can be due to different size tires.
  5. Dharn55
    The crush washer is 900.123.144.30 and lists for $.85. The o-ring is 999.707.344.40 and lists for $8.38. I would suggest replacing both of them. Lock the engine at TDC before you take out the tensioner. Also, If there is any scarring on the piston of the tensioner I would replace the tensioner. The Original part number was 996.105.179.58, superseded to 996.105.186.01, list price $95.86.
  6. Dharn55
    Is it the tensioner? Here is a picture of mine partially removed.
  7. Dharn55
    The diagram that Loren showed is the oil pump. You say that the leak is on the drivers side, near the word VarioCam and near the sway bar . Have to give some thought to what that might be but it is not the oil pressure relief.
  8. Dharn55
    If the dealer is going to CPO the car that is great and would support their inspection. However, if the dealer is not going to CPO the car I would have the PPI done elsewhere, there is just too much conflict in interest for the selling dealer to do the PPI if there is no warranty behind it. Another dealer, fine, but not the selling dealer. There have been lots of buyers of cars that had PPI's and later found problems that were not noted on the inspection, with a CPO not a problem, without, could be a major problem. IMHO
  9. Dharn55
    First, get a PPI by someone other than the selling dealer no matter what they say about the car. And if they are not willing to let you have a PPI run, don't walk away from the car That being said it may be a great car. Targas are great, and petty unique as there are so few of them..The biggest known problem seems to be squeaks, and the cost of repairs to the tops which can be very expensive. I would also say that just about anytime that you would open the top on a Targa you could put down the roof on a Cab.
  10. Dharn55
    I have seen a recommendation that you should change the oil after using a product like Techron. Apparently traces of it get into the oil. So if you are going to use it, do it just before an oil change. I think hte recommendation came from Porsche.
  11. Dharn55
    A visual inspection should show if it has the plastic intake (non-x51) of the cast metal intake (x51). That is the easiest to see.
  12. Dharn55
    I bought an adapter from Becker America that uses the low level output on the CDR 220 and has connectors for RCA jacks. Ran two sets of RCA cable, one with an extra wire to use the electric antennae lead on the CDR 220 to switch the power on the amp. This allows the use of the fade and balance on the CDR 220. The JL Audio only has inputs for 4 channels, then it has settings that allow you to filter the low frequency signals off the 4 channels, blend them and output them on channels 5 & 6. Not sure how your amp works, but many 6 channel amps work this way.
  13. Dharn55
    I love my PSE, and I bought it on eBay about 5 years ago for $800. The challenge on the PSE is that Porsche has now raised the price to about $6,000. Three or four years ago it was $1,800, then it went to $2,600, now it has shot through the roof. The current pricing is crazy money. Here is one on eBay now for a Buy It Now of $2,900 and it does not have the electrics (they are not real expensive). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911-996-Sport-Exhaust-Muffler-System-PSE-RARE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aPorscheQQhashZitem25600887b0QQitemZ160524961712QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Basically, with Porsche's pricing for the PSE it is pretty much out of the question. Fab Speed had a switchable system available now. Not sure of the drone. I have a buddy who put one of the first ones on his car, but I have not heard it yet. Shoot, for $3,000 I would probably sell you the PSE off my car with the electronics, switch, relay and everything.
  14. Dharn55
    It is not the IMS or RMS. The oil is too high up the side of the engine for those to be the source. Could be the seal around the can advance solenoid.
  15. Dharn55
    According to my PET and the Porscheoemparts.com site there is a difference between the alternator for a manual and a tip. You can put the part number in at the site and it will tell you which cars it fits and if it has been superseded. You can also enter the year, type etc. for your car and look up the part number. It does not have the illustrations for the parts like PET, but it is more up to date than my PET which it 4-5 years old.
  16. Dharn55
    There is a set of brand new Bilstein PSS10's for a C2 on eBay for $1,899 shipped, Buy It Now. About the best price I have seen. This is where I got the PSS10's for my C4 last year for the same price. Here is the link: http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=por....c0.m270.l1313
  17. Dharn55
    Not a hard job. As long as you are going to have it aligned right away just measure the length of the existing tie rods before you take them off the car and set the new ones as close as possible. Then take it straight to the alignment shop.
  18. Dharn55
    Now that is some great news!!
  19. Dharn55
    Greg - I am curious how you got the splined shaft out of the wheel carrier. That was the show stopper for me.
  20. Dharn55
    I got mine off with an impact air wrench. They work much better than just a breaker bar. Of course you need compressed air to use one.
  21. Dharn55
    I am thinking "why are you asking this question about your Cayenne on the 996 Forum." But then I think I know, Because most of us 996 owners send a lot more time working on our cars than the Cayenne owners do.:clapping:
  22. Dharn55
    The primary challenge in upgrading from a 3.4 engine to a 3.6/3.8 engine is the VarioCam vs. VarioCamPlus issue. Other items like the lack of return fuel lines, AC lines etc. can be addressed more easily. Take a look at the thread I did last year to help you understand the difference between the functioning of the VarioCam and VarioCamPlus systems. Here is a link: Basically the VarioCam system is a simple on/off switch, based on RPM and engine temp, and the amount of advance for the intake cam is fixed. The system uses a 7.2 DME. The VarioCamPlus system is much more complex. It has a varying amount of advance of the intake cam and also varies the lift of the intake valves. This is based on RPM, temp, engine load, etc. etc. The system is controlled by a 7.8 DME. So to get true "dynamic" functioning of the VarioCamPlus system, along with cruise control and other functions, you need the 7.8 DME and the 7.8 DME is not compatible with the wring systems of earlier cars (MOST), the gauges are different, etc. etc. It would seem that someone could design a "blackbox" to interface the 7.8 DME to the systems in the earlier cars, not sure what all would be involved, but with the cost differential of the 3.4 to 3.6/3.8 engines (the 3.4 are much more expensive from Porsche), I would think there would be a market for this. Any volunteers for such a project :thumbup:
  23. Dharn55
    I knew that PhillipJ would have an opinion.:clapping:
  24. Dharn55
    You might want to talk to PhilipJ about his experience with Roock. Not Good!
  25. Dharn55
    An IMS noise is usually not going to go away with revs or when the engine warms up. Sounds more like a tappet or a chain tensioner to me. Have you tried listening with a screw driver pressed against the engine and your cheek bone near your ear to try to locate the noise? I had a sticking lifter that made a clicking noise before I replaced all of them. And now I have a tapping that is a sticking tensioner that needs to be replaced. It akes a while to pump up on first starting the car but goes away when it warns up a bit or with RPMs. Planning on doing that this spring, probably with the IMS upgrade. If it is the IMS bearing then the noise should be coming from the trans end of the engine. There is a lot of paranoia on the IMS, and if it fails the results are disastrous. But there are many many sources of tapping or clicking noises unrelated to the IMS.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.