Dharn55

Looked it up, the TSB is 6117. The complete it is 000.043.300.46 and lists for $231.51. You could buy just the mounts, 996.561.653.04 and 996.561.654.04, but they list for $165.11@ so that makes no sense.

The threaded mounts are the new, and most say better version. They allow you to tighten down the top more to eliminate rattles. The tops are all the same from 98-2011. You can get a kit to upgrade older cars to the threaded type and them switch out the parts in the car. There is a TSB on this.

J-Status I think I just figured out who you are on 6Speed. So this is Grandpa speaking. Did you ever put your cats and mufflers back on. Opps!! Nuff said on that subject. As for the amps and RCA Jacks, I think you will need the adapter. The OEM amps do not use RCA jacks while almost all aftermarket amps do. The harness costs less than $10 as I remember. And you can get a good set(s) of RCA cables for less than $20 @. There are some grommets on the drivers side of the firewall that you can run the cables through. There are several cable already there, just slit the rubber and the RCA's will fit through. You should seal them up with some silicone to prevent air and water going through. There is also a grommet through the firewall to the trunk on the other side. I can look up the color codes for the speaker wires, when you take the harness off the OEM amp you will have to splice into the speaker wires near the connector. Then it depends on which speakers you are using, you might have to run some additional wires to the speakers. There are only two wires running to each speaker location, the OEM speakers use a resistor to separate the low frequency signals. If you are going to run component speakers with crossovers you will need more wiring. What speakers are you planning to use. You should know that the OEM speakers are the weakest piece of the stock system. A new amp or head unit with the OEM speakers won't help much at all. I have always recommended doing speakers first, then the amp, then the head unit.

You need a set of these to remove the radio. http://cgi.ebay.com/...omotiveQ5fTools Then the low output harness from Becker shown here http://www.beckeraut...ex_porsche.html With this harness you have two set of RCA Jack (front and rear) and can use the OEM head unit balance and fader. Depending on what amp you use you should be able to sort out the low frequency for the subs. I use a JL Audio 6450 which is fed by these RCA Jacks and has 6 channels, Front (2) Rear (2) and a blended low frequency (2) for the subs.You have to run two sets of RCA cables from the head unit to the amp location, get one set with an Antennae lead to control switching the power to the amp. You will then have to spice into the leads to the speakers, not sure how this works with the CDR210, do you have an OEM amp? Hope this helps.

It can certianly be done. You have to take the outputs from the head unit to the amp. I have not worked with a CDR210, only the CDR220 with the HiFi option. But all head units have outputs. I am sure that Becker make an adapter so you can feed the amp.

The issue with these kits is that most cost $10,000-$12,000 installed With the cost of 996TT these days you may be able to buy one for the cost of a 996 with the mods. Vivid racing recently had a special on the Supercharger kit for about $7,000 plus installation

I don't think what you are talking about is part of the cooling system. At least on my C4 all the coolant tubes ran in the center area. I am trying to remember but what you are talking about may be a fuel line of refrigerant line.

First I want to say sorry that you have had this failure. I spend a lot of time on the misc 996 boards and this is the first time I have seen any mention of this failure. I wonder if Jake Raby at Flat 6 has seen this before. How bad was the damage to the piston and were the cylinder walls also damaged? Can the head be replaced or is this going to require a total rebuild with new cylinder sleeves?

When I replaced mine, both front and rear, they were the same. I checked PET and can only find a picture/listing for the fronts. Not sure if there was a difference in the speakers according to which stereo option the car had. One of the reason that most listed are for the front is that these are the ones that most people replace. The rears are mostly for in fill.

Not sure about the CDR23. I would call Becker and ask them.

There are vacuum intakes on the boot on the left side of the throttle body. You could probably introduce the Seafoam there with some kink of an adapter.

There is an adapter from Becker that uses the aux input for an Ipod interface. However, you have to give up the CD player for this as the head unit only has one aux input. Take a look here: http://www.beckerautosound.com/Porsche/aux_input_CR_CDR%20220.html

Go on eBay and do a search for Porsche 996 speaker, there are about 6 sets for sale right now.

Do the bearing, not just the OEM flange/seal update. I little seepage, whether at the RMS or IMS won't kill the engine (although at the IMS it can be indicative of a failing bearing. But a bearing failure usually means a total teardown/rebuild. It is not that expensive to do if you have the engine/trans out of the car. I did the OEM flange/seal update before LNE had perfected the removal tool for the dual row bearing, will be going in to do the bearing update one of these days. For the later engines the single row bearing with the exposed clip makes the removal much easier.

Bank 2 is the passenger side. but the header from this side connects to the cat and crosses over to the drivers side, so the after cat sensor is on the drivers side. Follow the pipes and you will find it.

The wold be great is there were replacement chains that could be installed without a total tear down of the engine. Are they really available? And for what engines? 3.4 with old style chains, 3.4 with new style chains, 3.6 ? This would only be possible for the IMS to crank chains, with the cam covers off, no way to get to the IMS to Crank chain. And on the 3.4 the cam to cam chains are pretty easy to replace. Have not see or heard of these replacement chains with a master link. You would have to cut the old chains and somehow splice in the new chains.

Up to year 2000 the part number is 996.606.405.01, lists for $24.52, should be about $16.58 at Sunset, Suncoast or Porscheoemparts.com. But might be better to buy it locally as the shipping will rpbably cost as much as the savings. If you don't drain the coolant you will have some spillage, probably not that much. If you drain the coolant then you will need to bleed the system of air, kind of a pain without a system.

No such thing as an air cooled 928, they were all water cooled V8's, but did have a tendency to overheat. If you want AC that really works go for the 996.

Just made a donation. Can't imagine not having Renntech as a resource. Hope everyone will step up to keep this board alive!!!

Not a big job, just a PIA.

The technique you will have to use will be a little different than you have described. Basically you are going to have to line up the cams visually with the crank at TDC. I did not have the tool and you can do this without it. First a little background. Tthe ZDmax/SIR tool is a little different than the OEM tool. The OEM tool locks into the intake cam access hole, not the cam itself, and them fits into the grooves on the exhaust cams and allows you to rotate the cams into position (assumes that they are relatively close to the correct position. So you lock the engine at TDC, fit the tool, loosen the sprocket and rotate the cam to the correct position. then you tighten the sprocket bolts to set the position of the cams. This is done on one side, the the crank is rotated 360 degrees and the other side is done. With the ZDmax/SIR tool it just locks in the cams with the grooves straight up and down so you have to rotate the crank until the grooves are straight, install the tool, them loosen the bolts on the sprocket, move the crank to TDC and tighten the sprocket bolts. Then do the other side. First, how far off are you? If you are fairly close my technique will work. You can't really lock the crank at TDC and then loosen the sprocket bolts and turn the cams as with the valve springs, etc. it is hard to rotate the cams, lots of pressure. When I had my cover off I used a pair of vice grips (kind of crude) on a non-critical part of the cam to rotate it close to position, but this is not possible with the covers on. I even tried to make a tool by modifying a socket to fit into the grooves on the end of the exhaust cam, but even with this and a socket wrench it was not possible to keep enough pressure on the socket to keep it in the grooves and rotate the cam. With the cam cover on and the cams close to the correct position here is the technique that I used. Choose which side you want to do first and get the crank at TDC with the cams on that side close to the correct position. Use a socket on the pulley to rotate the crank ( this is how I did it although Porsche makes a tool that fits into the pulley to rotate the crank). Then rotate the crank slightly to get the groove straight up and down, the crank may not be at TDC. (As an aside, I saw one article that said to never rotate the crank in reverse, but I can't understand why this would damage anything and here we are talking about only a few degrees of rotation.) It can be hard to make sure the grooves are lined up perfectly straight up and down, use a straight edge and the joint between the head and the cam cover as a guide. Once the cam is set loosen the bolts on the sprocket, then rotate the crank to TDC, should only be a few degrees, lock the crank at TDC. Hopefully the cams have not moved. Now tighten the sprocket bolts. I tightened two of them, then put loctite on the other two and tightened them to torque, the loosened the first two and put loctite on them. Now that side should be set. Rotate the crank 360 degrees and use the same technique on the other side. This should get them about as close as you can without the special tool. You need to be fairly precise as 1 degree at the cam is the equivalent of 2 degrees at the crank. Sorry if this write-up is a little disjointed but it is late and I have cut and pasted it from an email I sent to another owner. Let me know if you have any questions. By the way, if you are not going to remove the cam covers you do not need to buy all the tools in the SIR set, which is very expensive, you only need the tool at the top left of the picture. You can use a torx of the proper diameter to lock the crank. The other tools shown are to hold the cams when removing the cover and when removing the cams.

Should fit any 3.6 VarioCamPlus car, but the engine may be US spec vs. ROW, not sure about that.

You have to carefully pry off the right side of the cover. Underneath there is a slotted head that is rotated, then that end will pull out. Not sure how to check or change the bulbs.

Here is the engine you need. Great Price of a factory engine. Don't know what is involved in shipping it to Norway but it seems it would have to be less than what you have been quoted for an engine there. Link to add on Rennlist http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/for-sale-ads-member-to-member-classifieds/593726-3-6-liter-911-engine-for-2006-2008-997-carrera.html Same engine on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-3-6-Liter-911-Engine-2006-2008-997-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem33611e1898QQitemZ220672694424QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories