Dharn55

The CD version has a search function, parts number look up, etc. that is not available with the on-line version (at least it does not appear to be).

You mean other than the fact that it is illegal and contributes to excessive air pollution.

OK, looked at the wiring diagram for the Bose setup and it shows a subwoofer, so this would be the bass channel(s). So maybe with the Bose setup the doors are not subs. Can't really tell from the wiring diagram.

jimmy3530 - The dash and rear speakers are mids and tweeters. I think all cars that have door speakers (cars with the HiFi or Bose option) had subs in the doors. I know this is the case with the HiFi option, but can't be sure on the Bose option.

The manual shows 10 ft. lbs for the flange nut, or 8 ft. lbs. if you are using special tool 9110. Not sure if this changed with the updated shaft. I used an updated flange but the shaft was the original.

hi8ha The dash and rear speakers are coaxial, where the signal is sent over one set of wires and the splitting of the frequencies is done at the speakers themselves. I am not an electrical engineer, but I think this is done with resistors. I know that when I replaced my dash and rear speakers there were resistors on the wires that ran from the mids to the tweeters so that the low frequency signals did not go to the tweeters. For my dash I used Focal 100KP's, which have separate crossovers for each speaker. I located these in the trunk and ran tow sets of wires to each location on the dash, one for the mids and one for the tweeters. For the rears I used Focal 100 Slimlines, which are coaxial, so the existing OEM wires were usable (kind of small gauge but I used them). What did you use in your doors? Remember that these are subs, and only receive the low frequency signals from the OEM amp. I first used some Focal mids, and the sound/bass was not good. I switched to Focal 5WS, a true sub, and the bass is much better.

OK, in the Durametric menu go to Motronic, then look for Drive Links. There you have the opportunity of turning on and off the advance mech.

Another owner here in the Chicago area just had this happen to him and the dealer charged $750 for the unit and the programming. I think he may have needed new keys or fobs as the old coding for the keys, etc. is in the old unit. And who keeps that sort of info on file. I got lucky a couple of weeks ago when my cab smelled musty. Felt the carpet behind the drivers seat and it was damp. Fortunately no water got under the seats. Cleaned the rear drains, which were completely blocked. And the front drains which has some leaves in them. Going to be part of the annual work from now on.

mine is the VarioCam. I can't start the Durametric program on my desktop. You have to have the connector plugged in to the car and the ignition on. I also have it on an old laptop but the battery is dead. I will see if I can attach it today and figure out exactly how I did it.

I have the Durametric and it allows you to turn the advance on and off. It has been a while since I did it and I would have to hook it up to remember exactly how I did it.

With the 3.4 VarioCam you can test the cam advance solenoids. They are an on/off system and you can activate and deactivate them. Not sure if this would work with the 3.6 VarioCamPlus system which is significantly more complex. Check out this post I did last March which has a lot of info on how the systems work and differ.

I got my JL Audio amp off eBay for a good price, but that was 3-4 years ago I think. The JL amp is a good amp, 450 watts of power. With the six channels you have one set for the fronts, one set for the rear (which many say are really only "infill") and a blended set for the subs. If you are going to have mids/tweets in the front rear and doors I am not sure how you would split them up. I got a couple of books at the library on building car stereos that was quite helpful. I do know that is you decided to run two sets of one set of channels it effects the impedance, ether doubles it or half it. Maybe you need more than one amp for this set up. There are certainly lots of cars that have 10-12 speakers in the system so there has to be a way to do it.

Take lots of pictures. I am curious to see how you fit the 5.25" speakers in the front and rear, especially in the dash. Seems like a lot of work for a marginal improvement over the quality of sound you can get from a good 4" mid versus a 5.25" mid. With the base it is a whole different story. Good Luck on the project.

Couple of things you should know. You are going to be hard pressed to fit the SR5250 speakers in the dash/front and the rear. These are set up for 4" mids and separate tweeters. I used Focal 100KP's in the front, with the crossovers located in the trunk, which required running new wiring to this location (the OEM speakers have one set of wires to them with resistors as filters) and a set of Focal 100 Slimlines (coaxials) in the rear so I could use the existing one set of wires to each rear locations. I don't know how you could fit a 5.25" speaker in the dash and rear. I think that is actually bigger than the grill and holes in the dash and trim panel in the rear. You might want to rethink this one. The doors are set up for 5.25" sub-woofers. The wiring to these locations are set for subs on the OEM amp/wiring. I used Focal 5WS, I think the currently equivalent is a Focal 13KS, both 5.25." There are folks that have fit 6" speakers in the door locations but it take some modification of the enclosures in the doors and I think they "float" them on the surface of the door and enclosure, This can certainly be done. You need to think through how you are going to use these speakers, pair them with the fronts, or the rears?, watch the impedance if you do. The 10" subs will give you way more base than any sub you could fit in the doors, 5.25" or 6." You will need some sort of an enclosure for these, what are your plans? I hope our are not going to go to "ghetto" with the subs, bothers the heck out of me when a car pulls of next to mine and my whole car is shaking from the others subs, but that is just me. I used a JL Audio E6450 amp, 6 channels, with two for the front, two for the rears, and a blended set for the subs in the doors. The JL is set up for this. Still using the OEM head unit and the balance and fader on it works. Ran some RCA cable (two sets) from the head unit to the amp, with an adapter from Becker. Used the new wring I ran to the fronts, and spliced into the existing harness at the old amp location for the doors and rears. So the biggest challenge you are facing is the fronts and rears, I just don't think you can fit 5.25" at these locations without a lot of cutting and custom work. Good luck!

There are pages of wiring diagrams (that should be in your manuals). Can you be more specific on what area of the wiring you are looking for.

Stock cars do not have an oil cooler in the front, so there are no oil lines from the engine to the front of the car.

Both the heat and the AC work much better in the 996/water cooled cars than the air cooled cars. As for heated seats, they can be added with a little work, I know because I did it on my 2000 C4 cab. All OEM parts and looks, although you can go aftermarket if you want. You will need tow sets of wheels and tires, the summer tires are worthless in the cold/snowy weather, and you won't want to run winter tires in the summer. Not sure how you would do a block heater in a 996, haven't seen one, but with 0W-40 synthetic oil and good coolant you should not have a problem in the winter. Obviously a heated, or at least protected garage would help. You will love a C4 in the winter with the right tires. You should also know that the cost to rebuild an air cooled engine is probably twice that of a rebuilt 996 engine.

It is a splash shield to keep spray, etc. off of the coil packs, etc. Not a major concern, but it is unusual that is has corroded out like that. It is aluminum and it looks almost like something corrosive got on it. The old part number for a 2002 is 996.104.445.01 which has been superseded to 996.104.445.02. List price is bout $22.00, 10 minutes to change it out.

The MAF cleaner is better for this.

1993 996 cab?? Must have been a really early prototype. Many times these AC problems are an activator/arm coming off one of the flaps. You may be able to see it by taking off the console horseshoe or looking around under the dash.

On the Durametric sight I see steering angle calibration for the Cayenne, but specifically for the 996/997. Any one know if it can do this?

The latest version of the Durametric is supposed to be able to do this.

:notworthy: All hail the all knowing Loren:

If they go in again do the IMS bearing upgrade, once apart the bearing is only about $600 and maybe an extra hour labor. And it comes with a new flange, etc. Dealers are supposed to warranty repairs like the RMS for two years so you should be covered.

Check the level of coolant in the tank, a blinking light indicates low coolant level. Also look for sign of contamination.