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nycebo

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Everything posted by nycebo

  1. If one were to replace the plastic rear window for a new one (I'm not quite there yet, but just out of curiosity), is there a particular plastic that works the best? In other words, is there a plastic that stays clearest and creaseless for the longest duration?
  2. Try holding the clutch in when you turn off the car and see if this resolves some of the clunk.
  3. As a frame of reference, I am running 15W-50 currently is colder temperatures than you (I live in NYC) and have NOT noticed any problem with a rough idle. Does it idle roughly on cold start or when warmed up, or both?
  4. I have road rash on my right rear wheel from taking a corner a little too tightly as well. It drives me nuts. When I switch to summer rims, I'm going to have them touched up too. What can I say, I watch corners and parallel parking very closely now to prevent a repetition.
  5. Yup, bigger tires in the rear will induce more understeer.
  6. Completely agree with Nick. While I don't have the PSE (I use Ruf cans), I can't ever imagine wanting to be quieter. In fact, I purposely rev a little longer to hear the blissful symphony while driving. Indeed, now that my hardtop is on the car for winter, the exhaust is sealed off more from me and I can't wait until spring when I can once again unleash the beast. While the electronic switch may be cool to have, I question if you would have actually use it. Indeed, the first thing that I would do is make sure that the mid-rev bypass is deactivated.
  7. I get about the same as most others here...a combined 20 miles per gallon highway and city driving. Of course, I always drive in a most spirited fashion, so I wouldn't be surprised to get a bit better if I knew how to lighten my right foot. The advice about using the brakes to slow is well taken. I'll have to get into the habit of not using the engine to slow going forward but I oh so like the feeling on downshifts.
  8. What did the total package cost you, if you don't mind my asking. Just interested in a range more than anything else becuase I love the notion of keeping a stock look and it sounds like this is just what you got. Also, do they install on the east coast (NYC area)?
  9. Hey guys, and probably Loren in particular, I need to replace a part for my cabriolet's hardtop and am having trouble identifying the part to show to the guys so I can re-order it. Basically, it is the small plastic washer/wedges that fit between the car and the hardtop cover. They are made out of that same plastic material as the locking latch cover between the front sun visors. They appear intended to protect the car from the hardtop while the hardtop is resting in place (the screw down bolts that fit into the car would rest on these plastic washer things). They are rectangularish shaped, from memory about 2 in x 1.5 in, and have a hole in the middle about the size of a silver dollar. The screw-type locking mechanisms by the pop-up roll-bars go right through these little guys to protect the fabric. Anyway, if any of you know the part number on the diagram, or better yet, have a photograph of one of these little things, I'd really appreciate it so I can better explain it to the parts guy. Cheers,
  10. Green doesn't mesh up so well with the car though. Do you know if they also sold the Amber? I'd like to keep the interior look as uniform as possible.
  11. Here ya go: http://www.bahntech.com/products/AutoTop/p...ertible_top.asp
  12. What would be cool is if we could figure out a way to have the LED in the amber color rather than the red color. THe heated seats have the capacity to go from Red to Amber to off, so perhaps there is an amber LED that can fulfill this role?
  13. Loren, it's frightening how much of a BEAST you are. I may never need to go in for a service problem again. :clapping:
  14. You're right: it happens. Though oddly enough, my 2000 cab xenons still seem good though in truth, the lights aren't often used since the car only has 8000 miles. So, perhaps instead of age, it has more to do with usage. How many miles does your car have?
  15. Thanks a ton. It'll be my first task of the day! Of course, maybe it'll even be reason enough to go with aluminum pedals. :clapping:
  16. Hey Guys, The accelerator pedal on my 2000 C2 Cab has a squeak/slight-stick that is noticeable when very slightly modulating the pressure. Frankly, it is starting to drive me crazy, particularly when needing to very accurately adjust my speed in corners. I have taken the car to the dealer twice to see if they can fix the problem and they lubed everything (including the pedal, throttle cable, etc), but sadly to no avail. Having placed my ear as close as possible to the pedal, it seems to emminate EITHER directly from the pedal joint OR directly from the little metal flange attached to the rear center of the pedal that actually controls the throttle. I tried lubing those myself but the problem has not resolved. Having searched through the TSBs, I couldn't find anything, but I was wondering if you or any other members might have experienced this problem and if so, what I might be able to do about it. Otherwise, Loren, are you aware of a TSB that I might have overlooked? Thanks a bunch in advance.
  17. Loren, I couldn't find the TSB that you mentioned above and sinc eI have a Cab, I am VERY interested. Thanks.
  18. I don't find the SSK notchy at all (but I am running an OEM setup). It is crisp. If there is any notchiness, then it only exists when running through the detante at neutral. The feeback is sublime. As for the clack at the top of shifts, my experience would suggest that it is normal. As Dell mentions, it IS a bolt-action feel that very much adds an auditory feedback to shifts. It doesn't sound abnormal; it sounds deliberate and engaging. Indeed, if I didn't have the feedback, I might be uncertain as to whether the shifter was fully in place. However, I will add that this feedback is only at the end of shifts, not during the upshift. Good luck and enjoy your shifters.
  19. RCG412, I go to Pepe Porsche in White Plains, NY. Have tried Manhattan Motorcars and New Country in Greenwich (which wasn't bad when it was independently owned) and they always seem to give me the runaround on service and screw me on pricing. That's what nice about Pepe: they're independently owned, the shop only services Porsche, and they handle my warranty needs. Maybe after warranty is up after two years, I'll try an indy, but frankly, Marc and John at Pepe have always been very responsive to my needs.
  20. Your transmission sounds like it is fried, as well as the clutch. But if the service tech can't reproduce the problem, then ask him to accompany you while you drive the car around and point it out to him when it occurs. Perhaps you are just shifting incorrectly (I know, even if it's highly unlikely) and he could point out to you what you are doing wrong. As an aside, you can always try another dealer. I can't imagine that Beverly Hills is going to have the most patient people. Here in New York, I drive the car 30 miles out of the city for service.
  21. Great post. Given that Mobile doesn't make a 5W50 motor oil, do you think that Castrol is still very reputable? Since it does get pretty cold up here this time of year, I'd feel more comfortable using at least a 5W, particularly if I make weekend ski runs up to Vermont where it can get very very very very cold (I've skied in -25 degree F weather). Thanks.
  22. It's hard to argue with that logic, and the 50 will save the trouble of having to worry about temps in the summer when it breaks into the 90s here.
  23. Loren, if you look at the date of their post, you'll notice that it's from Feb 2002. I just posted it because my car is a 2000 and it was one of the more pertinent of their responses. I am optimistic that they have the newer bulletin.
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