therock88

These are mechanical switches now, and I believe the procedure to open them with a dead battery is covered in your owner's ,manual. Give that a look. Would be the same process as what you are dealing with. DC

I think they are the same. I have seen a lot of them listed as 996/997 hard top, which makes me think they do. I do think it depends on whether or not your cabrio was ordered ready for the HT or not. Here is some info from rennlist.com If you have an account there you can read the Do-it yourself with photos at the link I have provided below. Good luck! DC From Rennlist.com at this link: Click Here "For those that drive their cars in the cold weather like I do, I wanted to have a hardtop to install on my 06 C2S cab in the winter. I'm one of those unusual people that actually like the look of the hardtop! Unless your 997 was ordered with a hardtop (very rare), in a likelihood, your 997 does not have the mounting hardware on your car to install a hardtop, unlike all of the 996's. There are many people who question whether a 996 hardtop will fit on a 997. The answer is YES. All that's required are the mounts that bolt on to the car that receive the locks on the top. Mounts are specific to the locking pins on the car. Mounts are left - right specific with the left mount having the electrical connection for the rear defroster included. Electrical hookup is plug and play as the 997 includes the harness for the defroster connection. It is important to know what kind of hardtop you have, because sometime during the 996 lifespan, the attachment mounts, and hardware on the top, were changed out for a better design. I was lucky enough to find a very CHEAP 996 hardtop with the later mounting hardware. The parts you will need for the newer style mounts are : 996.561.653.04 (mount to attach to the car) 996.561.654.04 (mount to attach to the car) 900.378.173.09 (8 of these just to be safe) I bought these mounts and hardware for a total of $245 from my local dealer."

Not absolutely positive, but wondering if it is difficult to remove the cap? Does it have a lot of suction making it difficult? If so, the AOS may be bad or going bad. I am sure some Boxster experts on here may know more. I am aware that one check for Air Oil Separator issue is to try to remove the cap while running. May want to check that. Good luck. DC

I have replaced the battery in all four of my current P-cars and have gone with regular (much smaller and lighter) aftermarket batteries with no issues. I would recommend a trickle charger (battery maintainer) if you are going to leave them sitting for a while. Will also offer that even in the scenario of sitting for a while, the aftermarket batteries hold up a LOT better than the OEM Porsche batteries. I thought it was comical that on my 997 Turbo there was a lot of information about Porsche making the car lighter by using aluminum door skins and bonnet . I let it sit for over a week in the winter and the OEM went dead! Dealer says it happens all the time in their showroom.....So I went to pull it out and I swear it felt like it weighed 80 lbs and was about 2 feet long ! :) I saved more weight by using a regular battery.. Good luck! DC

Well..I am no expert per se, but I would imagine with all of the parts grinding away in there without the proper fluid/lubrication flowing, you may end up with a nice case full of metal shavings?? I would certainly not risk it.....But your call. DC

If you did not do so, you probably need to change the wear sensors. One on each side. And I think on a 2000 you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. That should do it. Unless you changed the front brakes, and it is actually the rear brake sensors that are triggering the light? Good luck. DC :) Yeah, my hobby is a little more expensive than golf....But a lot more fun (at least to me!)

Agree with Dharn55....There is no novelty in when it came to the US. #9 just means there were MANY more behind it. There are a ton on the market and what you are really buying is a 1999 996. When you are ready to sell it, someone will likely be willing to pay for a 1999 996 and nothing else. But cars are worth whatever the buyer thinks they are worth....So if you find some special joy in owning a 1999 that was one of the first of many in the US...That would be your decision ultimately. I would not expect to later sell it for any special amount though as it will be difficult or impossible. Good luck with your decision.... And to Dharn's point....If you said you would drive it, and you want to spend $54K...A 996 Turbo would be MUCH more fun to drive. DC

I am thinking that would be covered in your owner's manual under the towing section. Usually is......and gives some guidance about what you can and cannot do. I just checked in my 997 Turbo, and 996 manuals with Tiptronic and it suggests to only flatbed them. Do not tow unless all four wheels are off of the ground. So I am thinking it would NOT be a good idea... DC

If you did not do so, you probably need to change the wear sensors. One on each side. And I think on a 2000 you can disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. That should do it. Unless you changed the front brakes, and it is actually the rear brake sensors that are triggering the light? Good luck. DC

Glad you got it all sorted out! DC

These big tires tend to make a lot of noise at that mileage because the tread wears off and it is like having two big flat pieces of rubber rolling down the road. I do not think soundproofing the inner wheel aprons is going to have much impact on that....But maybe someone knows differently. I usually feel lucky if I even get 8-10K from a set of tires :) Good luck. DC

If you want to PM me your VIN I can tell you what all the options are that came on it. Not sure of all of the manuals on this site, but consider becoming a contibuting member and you will have access to lots of additional materials and manuals. DC

I have used Sea Foam in both oil and gas in several of my cars...both my 996's, my 997 turbo, and my Cayenne......All run great. Agreed that if you put the additive in the oil, you should only run it a short time, then change oil and filter. The stuff works great! It is not for using in every tank or oil change though....Just used occasionally to clean it out and safe for ANY engine. I have obviously gotten to know my Porsche mechanic very well with all of the cars I have, and he (unofficially) told me that he felt this stuff was great and he uses it in many cars......Service adviser in an unrelated conversation said the same thing. Use whatever you are comfortable with.... DC

99 would still be stainless. DC

My understanding is that most, if not all, later model Porsche exhaust components are made of stainless steel as you suspect. I am no metallurgist nor do I know much about welding, but I would think you would need to weld a stainless bead, or you would get rust and or bi-metal corrosion. I am sure someone on this site will know more about it than I do, but I would not risk a regular weld on a stainless steel component. Good luck! DC

Not sure this is exactly what you need, but may have some helpful info. Click Here Good luck! DC

At a quick glance of this long post, I would think the issue is with your voltage regulator. That will typically cause these odd fluctuations. It will charge, then drop, then charge...etc. Seems very random and haphazard, but it is likely the voltage regulator. That is how they act when they are faulty.....Just my opinion. I would check that out... Good luck. DC

Hi There, I have no experience with GEICO, nor do I have a copy of their declaration pages. I will say that in general you have first party coverage while driving on public roads and there is language in there somewhere that will exclude any type of competitive event or use on non-public roadways not used for normal transportation....It may be buried, but I assure you that there is language that will make any claim that arises out of any event other than "normal" driving a contestable issue. It will likely be excluded from all coverages also (liability, comprehensive, & collision)....It will likely be listed under exclusions relating to use on "public roads" and not on roadways designed for racing or any other pre-arranged events. Your best bet is to ask your agent....Or in GEICO's case you will have to call a 1-800 number. So my bet is that you will NOT be covered by your regular auto policy. DC

Agree with Loren...If you can find a wheel restoration place. In lieu of that I would be pretty certain that if you clean and scuff the surface very well(get off all loose debris)....And then use one of the two part epoxy mixtures it won't come off. I have used some of these two part epoxy mixtures to fix some amazing pieces and had great luck. They even use that stuff to fix golf clubs and you know what kind of abuse they can take. Just a thought if you don't find an official word on the subject. Gorilla Glue makes an awesome blend...Holds about anything. The key is a clean rough surface. Good luck! DC

I think I used the wrong term......As I looked at my Porsche documentation for my Cayenne it was stated as an "Open Campaign" by my dealer. The dealer should be able to use your VIN and tell you if there are any open campaigns on your Cayenne. If they have any, they will do the repairs for you at no cost. I had some issues with mine while it was out of warranty and the repairs were all done at no charge....So I guess you could ask your dealer to check on that for you. Good luck! DC

What would it do for a normally aspirated '06-'07 C2S with a manual trans? Well....I am no expert but if you have no PDK or Tptronic, shift mapping won't have any affect with a manual, if you get sport chrono plus with the PASM, it drops suspension 10mm and monitors the wheels to ensure contact with the road (very rough ride if not on a track), and probably the only real noticeable difference with your set up would be the throttle response that makes it feel a little quicker. There are a lot of threads on that on 6speedonline.com DC

Can't tell what model you have because there are no Cayenne's listed in your profile? Some of the Cayenne models had various issues with the rear liftgate and there have been service bulletins to repair them. Warranty or not, if there is a service bulletin Porsche will fix it. Sounds like that is what you may have, but not certain. Good luck DC

Yes...Porsches will kill the battery while sitting at the dealer. Mine (dealer) has told me that. The easiest solution is to buy a high CCA quality aftermarket battery (I have had no luck with the Porsche batteries). When you are not using the car for a while at home you should keep it on a trickle / maintenance charger to keep it strong. Then when you do need to leave it elsewhere you should have no issues. If you do not trickle charge it, then park and leave it, it is likely weak....That is about the best you can do for battery life. Another option would be to install one of the cutoff switches that is placed inline, right near the battery poles, then you could basically "break the link" when not in use and the battery would not drain.....Only issue there is the memory would get lost including the radio code(unless it is 987/997). Good luck. DC

No.......It works on Tip and Manual as well. The link gives a good overview, but is on Porsche's site and only covers the latest models, which are PDK or Manual. Other than the PDK changes & launch control the other enhancements would apply to other cars depending on equipment.. DC

PDR doesn't work well on the poly compounds. However, a qualified repair facility that uses appropriate plastic welding / compounds, PAP (plastic adhesion promoter, the correct flexible primer, and quality base and clear coat paints can repair it to factory look and performance. I do not think you need to get a new bumper......Just find out which Body Shop your local Porsche dealer uses. To repair and refinish a bumper cover should not be terribly expensive. Depending on the location they may be able to blend as well. You may also try carefully using a heat gun (or blow dryer on hot) to see what comes out.........But be careful not to get the paint over 200 degrees or it will fail (bubble, peel, etc.). Here is a link if you want to try it: Click Here Good luck! DC