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986volante

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Everything posted by 986volante

  1. Here are the last two photos - had to attach them on a separate post due to size
  2. I'll be doing the pushrod end caps tomorrow and don't anticipate any problems with that......... I've tried adjusting the eccentric screw on the clamshell slider rail and it does appear to move correctly - I can definitely see it moving the clamshell backwards and forwards slightly. Unfortunately that's not the issue or the answer though - as I need a sideways adjustment. I've attached two photos of the clamshell in the closed position against the small "fillit" panels and you can see quite clearly that one side is way out (not the one that's correctly aligned which is a different blue - I
  3. Maurice: As you say, 95% there, but I'm already enjoying this later model hood just for the better and updated look alone! And I'm putting the roof down manually until I fix the pushrods. It makes my '96 model appear like a much later model, and for the first time I can actually see peoples faces in the rear view mirror after I've overtaken them :drive: . The pushrod end caps arrived today and so I'll be installing them this weekend - I'll have to fiddle slightly with the adjustment to make sure it's "right" as I don't think that they were ever aligned properly since I've owned the car, so
  4. Hi Maurice, Just to let you know that I finally sourced a 2003 hood with the rear glass screen :cheers: - just in time for summer (our spring never happened!). You were so right about the electrics and the special spade needed, very important to get the locking tab kind! Thanks for the heads up on that as they're not that easy to source I found! I'm very close to finishing the job now, but am currently operating the hood manually at the moment because one of the push-rod endcaps was stretched and not able to press home in the ball socket, so it was no longer effective. I've managed to order
  5. Thank you RFM so much for confirming that. I had already taken the undertray off from under the car to see if they could be accessed that way, but unfortunately I couldn't see a route at all with the view that i had - just looked loads of unmovable stuff in the way. I only had the car up on a trolley jack of course and so couldn't get right underneath, so obviously I need to get the car up on a proper ramp. So if I can use one of those then I'll give that a go, but if not, then it sounds like I'll have to go to my local Porsche specialist - it doesn't sound like such a labour intensive job n
  6. Okay, my mistake, when I had a look the wheel liners, they don't cover the access that I needed for the drain/ grommet area. That is actiuall part of the chassis and so you simply can't get access that way at all! So goodness knows how, or where, or even IF it's supposed to be possible to do that. Surely somebody out there knows the answer to this? I can't be the only one who's lost the grommets down gthe front drain holes? :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help: :help:
  7. Solved how to remove the accelerator (gas) pedal - dead easy in the end - just one screw at the top undoes it from the floor and bulkhead and then you can manoevre the pedal through the carpet, you don't even need to disconnect the cable. Since there have been no suggestions or comments about removing the inner wheel arch, I guess nobody has had this lost grommet problem before? So once the weather improves I'll find a way to remove the linings and hope I can see a way to reinstate the grommets and drain tube without too much difficulty. I'll come back with my findings in due course.
  8. I am in the process of fixing leaks into my cabin and starting with the front drain holes - when I was trying to clean out the blocked drain holes on both sides, I clumsily pushed both of the grommets into the hole underneath into the bulkhead itself.. I've bought replacement grommets but need to find a way into the never-never land bulkhead areas on each side. Am I right in assuming that these areas are accessed by removing the inner wheel arch lining? Can anyone confirm that or have any other ways of doing this please? Also, I need to dry out the sodden carpets (ECU/ alarm is okay by the
  9. Just a quick update on fitting the new switch and a advisory word of caution to help you do it. It would have been very easy to do this in a matter of 20-30 minutes if I hadn't experienced (through my own fault) a real problem with the grub screws that hold the switch in. They are quite difficult to access, so a word of warning to anyone doing this - make sure you have or get a suitable screwdriver - you need either a jewellers screwdriver or a right angled ratchet screwdriver/ set, otherwise you will find it a pig to do (as I did, because I didn't have the right kind!) or totally impossible
  10. Yippee!!! (I'm not normally prone to such silly outbursts but this made me very happy!!!!) Followed the instructions that I found after searching this site :- http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/ - top notch and even I found it easy to do and in a short time. I decided to test out whether the switch was definitely faulty before buying the replacement, so I proceeded as far as unplugging it to make sure I could actually do it, then plugged it back in, jump started the car and took it for a run to recharge the batte
  11. Thank you so much for opening my eyes to another possibility - it sounds really promising, and logical too. So now I'm hoping that I've prematurely jumped to the wrong conclusion about the ECU. It makes absolute sense because you'd have thought the dash lights would have gone out once the ECU was removed and they didn't! So this may also mean a much easier and less costly fix..... fingers crossed. I'll get the battery recharged and then disconnect the plug at the back of the ignition and if the dash lights go out then problem identified and I just need to replace the switch! I'll report bac
  12. Thanks for that although I only have the drinkable kind :) - but it turned out that i was right and it wasn't wet at all inside - no obvious signs of moisture, rust or shorting - like new in fact! Nonetheless I left it on top of the CH boiler all night where it was nice and warm and not too hot. I was very optimistic that just a small amount of moisture from condensation had caused the problem as it looks in such great condition and thought all would be well once reinstalled. Unfortunately having just returned from a long run to ensure that the battery was fully charged, the problem hasn't
  13. This is a common problem with cars the get water under the seats. Under the seat is the electronic control module for the central locking system, which shorts out when it gets wet. Fortunately, it can be removed, opened up and dried out, sometimes requiring a new fuse that is in the module itself. Once dry and reinstalled, they typically go back to working fine. Do a search on this topic, it has been covered extensively with pictures more than once. Thanks, I've just removed the ECU / Alarm module and it was a little wet on the underside but the fuse was okay, so I've put in on top of
  14. Okay this is more than likely my fault for not getting my bulkhead drain grommets sorted out properly last autumn (they were blocked and causing water seepage into the cabin but when I was trying to clean it out I managed to push the old n/s grommet into never-never land.l bought a replacement and then did the same again! (To be fair it is a ba***rd to access as you'll know if you're familiar with this). I intended to try and access the never-never land area by removing the inner wheelarch liner in the Spring - by the way, as a separate issue, does anybody know if that will allow me to access/
  15. Further update to solve the problem (on a 1996 2.5 remember): Having come to the conclusion that the old Type A gear transmissions on each side are the root cause of the problem and need to be replaced, and having read the archived articles above by Maurice/ Mike Focke, I was able to confirm that you can indeed simply upgrade the the Type A transmission to the Type B - fairly simply - by using the incredibly detailed instructions provided. The multiple advantages of this are firstly that it's not too expensive (just bought two used ones for £60 including postage), above all it provides a m
  16. Maurice: I used the other method to open the clamshell that you wrote about on - https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/top-half-closed - as I personally found this much easier to do than removing the 19mm nut on the two V levers which were too awkward to access with my big hands, and I found just too tight to loosen (that Loctite Blue is just a little too good!). It also had the added advantage of narrowing the fault down to the last couple of possibilities. After raising the clamshell with a cordless drill on each of the two gear drive cables, I checked the operation of the electric mo
  17. Further Update: Went back to my Indy and they say that it may not be the electric motor because of the rear clicking noise that can be heard when the hood button is pressed may be the motor trying to open the clamshell, but the separately located gear mechanism may be jammed. Trouble is the gear mechanism can only be accessed when the clamshell is open (catch 22) - naturally they are happy for me to book it in with them for some exploratory work to be done but I'd rather avoid that expense unless/ until I absolutely have to. The thing is if they can find a way to open up the clamshell th
  18. Quick update: I decided to go into my local Indy before actually ordering a new relay to make sure that it actually needed replacing (since it costs about £100). The helpful guy that I spoke to (possibly because it is the first time that I'd visited them) first of all noticed that my parking brake light wasn't on and, despite the fact that it had never been lit up since I bought the car and the hood still worked, he said that that definitely needed to be done to eliminate that first as the source of the problem. So he ordered a new parking brake microswitch (less than £5 but labour at £95/
  19. Maurice: Thanks again for such splendid detail, wouldn't have even been able to attempt your solution without this information as I was previously scratching my head on how to do it. As I mentioned, I had closed the roof knowing that the pushrod connections (part 3 in diagram) had already popped off enabling the hood to go down manually, so I just effectively needed to prise the hydraulic pushrods (part 12) free so that the clamshell could freely open. However the latter was a total mare (UK version of bear) to say the least, very hard to get access and a secure leverage angle as you sai
  20. Hi Maurice, Although I don't have a multimeter, I went through all the other procedures that you mentioned and changed the fuses in B6 and D3 for good measure, but am still only getting the clicking sound from the rear when I press the lower hood button, so I must therefore assume that the relay has packed up and needs replacing. Perhaps I should also have mentioned that the relay was replaced only last December when I first bought the car (I knew that the hood wasn't working when I bought it and that was reflected in the price I paid) - I took it to my nearest hood specialist at the ti
  21. Thanks Maurice, couldn't have asked for more information or detail and should undoubtedly help me to diagnose where the problem lies. I won't get a chance to have a go at it now till the weekend, but I'll post my finding here and hope it may also prove useful to the next person who this happens to. My car's a '96 2.5 manual BTW. Best regards, Tony
  22. I have just experienced exactly the same problem today and think it may be the relay which is located just above the fuse box in the driver's well. Trouble is it's about £80 to replace at Design911 (who are quite competitive on pricing) so expensive if it's not that! Notice that you posted your message in June, so hopefully you've found the answer by now? Would be really useful if you could advise the solution. Thanks, Tony
  23. Hi Newbie here, Just bought a '96 Boxster and delighted with the car in every way. I just have one slightly frustrating issue that I'd really like to resolve if at all possible. I paired my iPhone with the above unit, no problem, and heard who I was calling but couldn't speak to them. I subsequently found out that the microphone was originally a standard fitment with the radio unit so I checked behind the cover on the dash where the microphone should be, but it wasn't there. I then slid out the radio but there was no microphone wire/ connection plugged into the radio or anywhere to be
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