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lrapoport

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Everything posted by lrapoport

  1. First, buy a power bleeder if you are going to bleed your brakes yourself. I got one of the generic European ones for about $48 online. If you read the Porsche service manual, you are not to bleed these brakes through the traditional push/pedal method. They are to only be bled at high pressure (around 1.5 bar or 22 psi) with a remote fluid reservoir. Go by Porsche's numbers, not the ones in the power bleeder instructions. When you read the instructions for the power bleeder, they say not to use over 20 psi. Porsche uses a much higher pressure braking system due to the amount of fluid flow required to actuate 4-braking pistons at each corner. The reason for this is that the brake systems uses independant braking circuits with electromagentic valves. When you actuate the pedal, the valves close and the additional fluid returns through the return flow for pressure reduction rather than flow back through the valves. This is the reason why you are not recommended to use the push/pedal method since you can introduce air into the lines through the return path and damage the brake system bleeding it through this method. The good thing is even despite have 8 bleeders (2 per caliper), using the power bleeder makes this one person bleeding job the easiest you will ever do. There is no need for a second person to bleed the brakes. Just monitor the power bleeder to keep the pressure over 20 psi. I usually start at 25 psi and check it after each caliper. When it goes down to 20 psi, I pump it back up to 25 psi. The result is a perfect bleed job everytime.
  2. If you have Bi-Xenons, they are only available as self-leveling. They are easy to test. Park on a level surface at night. Turn you lights off and then back on again. They should track up an down to reset when you first turn them on, independant of the leveling sensor. There is a leveling sensor that is mounted above the front lower control arm on the driver's side. There is an arm that extends from the sensor actuator to the lower control arm. As the control arm moves up and down, it changes the pivot of the actuator and the signal to the pivot motor in the headlight assemblies.
  3. The C4S has the same engine as the C4 and the C2 - 320 hp (from MY2002). The C4S does come with the sport suspension as stock and is (in the US version) 10mm lower. C4S also gets the larger TT (steel) brakes. You forgot the C4S also gets wider rear wheels (18x11 vs 18x10) and tires (295/30 vs 285/30) with the Turbo's wider body. AND... The C4S also carries 276 lbs more weight than a C2 of the same year (the reason why it needs the bigger turbo brakes). With its additional weight in front and wider rear rubber in the C4S, it also understeers (pushes) a lot more than a C2 in the corners. I agree with the comments above about choices. If you really want the turbo styling or have to drive in snow, get a C4S. Otherwise, buy the faster car: the C2.
  4. Before you ever look at the option decal, look at the speaker grill and behing the rear seats. If you don't see the Bose emblems on the speaker grills and the deck behind the rear seat isn't flat all the way to the back window, you don't have Bose. The subwoofer for the Bose is behind the rear seats. When you fold them down, you should see the port on each side for sub. The mouldings around the ports also have "Bose" labelled on them.
  5. I have the opportuntiy to pick up a used LSD from a GT3 that was upgraded to an RSR diff. I know that the Quaiffe differential will work in both transmissions, but I don't know if a GT3 OEM diff can work in a regular 996 Carrera M96/30 transmission? Anyone know the answer? Thx
  6. It is pretty easy. I just did it last weekend. I don't think they were ever adjusted since new. I had to turn each adjuster 3-4 full turns to get to where they start dragging.
  7. Izzy, If you are looking for more adjustment to corner weight the car and adjust dampening, then PSS9's are a good choice. It just depends how serious you are in track times. They are considerably more expensive $2K + sway bars. Same goes for the X74 suspension, except it includes the M030 sway bars. Eibach Pro-kit is just springs. If get these, you won't have your springs matched to your shocks and you will still need sway bars to change the balance. Eibach springs along with shocks and sway bars will actually cost more than a M030 or ROW M030 suspension. Hence, why the ROW M030 is the best starting point in terms of handling balance, ride height, ride and cost. You can always start this way and then change sway bars to H&R or GT3's to get more adjustment. Dan, Do your mean toe-out or toe-in? Front or Rear? Toeing out the front will improve turn-in, but less stability. Normally, you then toe in the back to get the car stable. The car will tramline with the road and bump-steer with impacts with a lot more with toe. The more toe you run, the more feathering and faster wear you will see on your tires. For dedicated autocorssing, you normally put a lot of toe out in the front to get turn-in at low speeds. I used to run 1/4 degree per side on my Miata. To keep it stable (from spinning all the time), I run toe out front and rear on my Miata. Since I spend more time on the track, I have the 996 set with less toe out on both ends. Although it does change turn-in, it does not change balance. The reason why you get understeer or oversteer has more to do with weight transfer. Changing toe, won't change how weight transfers in acceleration, braking or cornering. Going to a larger front sway bar applies more weight/grip to the back increasing understeer. Going to a larger rear sway applies more weight to the front, reducing understeer or increasing oversteer. The same is true by increasing spring rates. If the car understeers and you add toe, it will still understeer. It is just able to change the turning angle faster.
  8. Izzy, I can absolutely say that with 285 factory rear rubber and the soft stock suspenion, that these cars DO NOT oversteer. I can't even get it to spin the tires from a dead stop. I also have a 79' 911 S/C and the difference is day and night. That car gets very nervous and does have the pendulum effect. I know what happens when you lift off in a corner in an old 911 and it is not pretty. A 996 is nothing like the older cars. Before I swapped suspensions in the 996, I could lift off pushing hard in a corner in the wet and my 996 would still push. Keep in mind that my car doesn't have PSM. I am sure it would be even more pronounced in a C4S or with PSM. That is just the nature of these cars. They truely have completely tamed these cars and in fact too much for my liking. Had I done the same manuever in my S/C and I would have been spinning in circles. On the older cars, I could see swapping the front bar to tame them. Be careful when you take advice from books in making sure it applies to your series car. What applies to an old 911 does not apply to a new one. My S/C is a factory sports suspension car with original thicker torsion bars, Konis, front and rear sway bars. It is a handful in a autocross and requires only throttle in turns. I run 245 instead of 225 tires in the rear of my S/C just to tame some of its tail waging tendencies. I considered swapping to a larger front bar on that car, but the extra tire fixed it. I swapped to a ROW M030 on my 996 to improve the balance the opposite direction, so the balance has shifted from understeer to very neutral on a skidpad. Nevertheless, I still notice a good amount of push when I run track events. Although Drivewire indicates that the Eibach rear is adjustable, check Eibach's catalog and they show it is not.
  9. What is your comment based on? The Eibach sway bars for the 996 are non-adjustable. The GT3's are 5-way adjustalbe front and 4-way adjustable rear. The H&R front in non-adjustable, but the rear is adjustable. Sorry, but I forgot TRG. They should be at the top of the list too.
  10. I used Rhino ramps instead, so I never removed the wheels when I installed mine. Instead, I did remove the front part of the wheel liners (2 screws and 4 plugs) to get enough clearance.
  11. I've had mine off the re-polish. They won't just slide off if they have a few miles on them. You remove the nut first, then pull the bolt out from inside the tip. Spray some WD-40 around the inside of the exhaust tip. You should not have to wait 30 minutes for it to penetrate, it should work immediately. Tap each tip gentally a little backwards (toward the engine) to free them with a rubber mallet. Do not use a metal hammer or you could dent or scratch the tips. From here you should be able to pull them right off or it may require a light amount of tapping with the rubber mallet. As long as you have the inside of the tips lubricated (with WD-40 again) when you go to reinstall them, they will slide right back on.
  12. I installed an entire ROW M030 suspension in my car. I would believe doing just the sway bars could be done in under an hour with a pair of Rhino Ramps. A stock 996 understeers/pushes from the factory. Adding a larger front bar will only make this worse, so I am not sure of the credibility of the advice from this Porsche tuner. To go more neutral you add a thicker rear bar. Before you change anything, what are you trying to accomplish? How do you, not someone else, want the car to handle? Some people like a pushing car that is safe in case they get into trouble. Others like a car that is more neutral that they can easily change the balance mid-corner. Others like a car that is loose and is controlled by more of the right foot than the steering wheel. I am also curious as to why you are looking at Eibach sway bars? The best sway bars to use are GT3 (with modified or aftermarket end links) or H&R's.
  13. Can a 17x9 ET55 fit the front of a 996? Yes. I run 18x9.0" ET50 with 235/40's in front for race wheels. Would you want to run 17x9.0" wheels on all 4 corners? Not if you want the car to drive correctly or be competitive. You will have way too much grip in the front and way too little in the back. The car will drive very unbalanced. Remember that 60% of our weight is on the rear wheels. On a car like an M3 with a 50/50 weight distribution, this would work. I run 18x11.0" with 295/30's on the rear for reference.
  14. Bruce, I don't know if you figured it out, but the driver's side center radiator hose wraps around the driver's side lower radiator hose and then comes in toward the body. It has the low loop section to help get air out of the system and then loops in to clear properly in the body. If someone took a picture of this it would have been very helpful. I thought about it after I put my car back together, so I didn't have an opportunity to take the pic. Maybe Loren has a pic someplace he can add to the thread.
  15. Keep in mind the the piston length and travel are different for each the US std, US sport (ROW std) and ROW sport suspension. The front bump stops are the same for all 3. The rear bump stocks are unique for each application with the US std being the tallest and the ROW M030 being the shortest. What this means is you are much more likely to bottom or run on the bump stops with US std shocks than US M030 or ROW M030 with lowered springs. Also keep in mind that Porsche individually matches the compression and rebound rates to correspond with the ride heights, spring rates and lengths for each of the production set of springs. These components are unique whether the car is a coupe, convertible, targa, 2WD or 4WD or even if it is a manual or tip. Aftermarket is one-application-fits-all. A 2WD cab tip can weigh 400 lbs more than a 2WD Coupe manual or over 10% more weight. Should it use the same suspension components? If you deviate from this, there is no guarentee that the dampening will be correct and if there are any problems then Porsche has no warranty obligations. If you swap to a complete ROW M030 suspension, Porsche will still warranty all components. Will H&R replace your shocks if their springs blow them out? No.
  16. First, mine take a full quart with 5-6 bars. When you check it, make sure the car is cold and all the oil is back in the sump and bottom of the crankcase. If you check it shortly after running, it won't read accurate. This is due to oil still settling. On the street I will consume a quart in 2-3K miles. On the track, I normally consume a quart in a single day with 4 20-30 minute sessions.
  17. Charles, I don't think they are going to look that good on a red car without the GT3 bumper or a front spoiler. The problem is that they make the sides look low and the front look high. Part of this is due to the lower front trim being black. I have seen them as a standalone option on a black car and they look really good because they blend in so well. I would suggest alternatively spending the money on the suspension where lowering the car will give it a more aggressive look and an improvement in handling at the same time. My .02.
  18. This was a good article and a great help. I have a MY02 and I had to add a couple of extra steps. To ge the bumper cover off, I had to remove the headlights. In order to get access to the hoses, I have to remove the mounts from the radiators to the brackets, remove the brackets and rear air guides. Once doing this, access to the hoses is easy. On a MY02 Carrera, you also have to replace the center air guide that fits in the bumper with one from a tiptronic. I did some measurements and if you just cut the factory insert, the inner duct won't fit properly. Last, the radiator assembly should be put together in a different order: 1. Attached air guide to radiator. 2. Attache brackets to radiator and air guide. 3. Bolt brackets together. It is far more difficult to get the air guide in otherwise and you risk damaging the radiator fins and the tabs on the air guide. Working leasurely, the entire install took about 4 hours.
  19. Close guess. Look at the headlights, it is MY02. Should be a great flick...lots of car terminology one-liners.
  20. First, if you are looking for factory GT3 wheels you are going to find they are scarce and expensive used. The prices I have seen are over $2K a set. I spent months looking for a set. There are some Sport Classic knockoffs that look similar in 18x8.5"/18x10.0". Try NRAUTO or AUTOMOTION. Today, you can easily find turbo hollow spokes or the late turbo wheels (look like GT3 wheels) for about $1000 a set; but this only works as long as you don't have a narrow body car (C4S or Turbo). In fact, it is getting almost to the point where people are giving turbo hollow spokes away because so few want them. Since I wanted the extra width for race wheels on a narrow body, I broke down and ordered a custom set of 3-piece 18x9.0"/18x11.0" Classic CCW's (Complete Custom Wheel, www.ccwheel.com). This was the cheapest and lightest option to go wide.
  21. First, you need to do a 4-wheel alignment. Next, it depends on the type of alignment you have done. It does not matter what suspension you have, you still have to decide what type of alignment you want since you can drastically change the camber and toe front and rea. I wanted an alignment more for DE events, ie. more camber. I had Ruf Autocenter do the the alignment for $140. The dealer is a little more expensive than this.
  22. I have only 2 suggestions: check your wheels and tires. I recently had a set of wheels straighted because 3 were bent on a bad piece of pavement. I kept getting them re-balanced, but there was always a shake at 70. Sending them off to be re-finished fixed the problem. Since you aren't commenting about a vibration, it could be in the back. Also check the tires. You could have a weak spot on a sidewall or a tread separation in a tire. Try to find someone who you could barrow their wheels and tires for a day to see if this is where the problem is.
  23. That's the idea. The shifter is actually made by Top Speed. They basically take something soemone else has made and copy it in Asia. Most of the products are actually of good quality. I would expect this one to be up there. I've bought their shifters and strut braces for other cars in the past and they always fit and functioned right.
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