Y2K911

Thanks for this info, Ahsaï! Merry Christmas!

The Rennlist OP suggests ZEP 45 as a light lubricant. Although, ZEP 45, which appears to be 'excellent for use on any surface that slips, slides, rubs, rolls, moves,turns, twists, or pivots' ... as the brochure says, is an oily liquid substance. Wouldn't any oily lubricant attract dust? Just wondering: Would it be better to use a moly or teflon based lubricant instead for these moving/sliding parts? Any suggestions? TIA!

Thanks very much Hilux for the detailed reply! Superbe, mon ami! Now I know I have to buy 2 more new automotive products: The CRC 05110 Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner for the MAF and some Gummi Pfledge Stift for Window seals conditioning. Check! I was aware of the security torx bit requirement as well to remove the MAF sensor but thanks for the reminder as I should get more of those security torx bits. Martin

Thanks Loren! Making a note of that!

Hilux: If I may, in your post above, you said: 'I then used the same cleaner on the 996 (2003 C2 with 52k).' Would you be kind enough to give us the name of the product you used? In addition, when you said there is no need for hard contact, do you mean you only have to spray the cleaner on the MAF sensor? Thank you very much!

J-F: You signature quote by RP Feynman, supports your answer completely or as we say in french: Elle est très à-propos!

Belated thank you, Jean-F. Merci encore une fois.

JfP: What do shops prefer to do to r&r an AOS? 1. Access from the top removing left intake manifold, etc & from the bottom; or 2. removing the Xmission to get easier access? Merci bien! Martin

+1 on that Richard, especiallly the 1st time you do this.

Thanks Hilux for the Sugru hint. Wow! That stuff seems to be absolutely nothing short of miraculous. Good on that young British woman who came up with this bright idea. Available in N.Amer out of Michigan. I'll be sure to put in an order this evening.

Lilkely: C3: 15 Amp: CU CLS ALARM, Power Window, Sun roof, CU Power Top, Inside light

Bravo! Good for you!

You are likely correct but it is strange that someone who knew enough to do this job, not once but twice, would not know about the top white regulator stop that only applies to Boxster windows.

It really did not get off track. Likely, either or both clamps of the regulator let the window go because the friction with the window seal was too high for them to hang on to the window as the motor brought it down. Fix: You'll have to remove the interior door panel and then reset the window at the proper place. The 2 regulator clamps (front & Back) use each a torx 30 screw (covered each by a rubbery foam cover, which you have to remove to see them once the window is completely up) ,which you will have to relax a bit but not completely remove, position the window correctly fore and aft in the clamps, and then tighten the 2 torx 30 screws. I believe the Pelican tutorial shows you how this is best done but you'll have to remove your speaker to see the window location wrt the front clamp. My window regulator experience: The problem with the window motor regularly fighting the friction between the window seal and the window is that, in time, it slightly elongates the small steel cable driven by the motor around the X-shaped regulator. As the cable gets elongated, the window initial opening gap (around 12mm) gets less and less until either the regulator gives up (at worst) or the window has difficulty clearing the window gutter when completely up. I agree that keeping the window clean, using wax or a detailing liquid of some sort, helps reducing that friction a lot, especially when dry and hot outside. More complete fix: By using the 2 lower regulator positioning screws (the regulator is held by 4 x10 mm screws) and change their location outboard slightly. These can be easily reached by removing the 2 inboard rubber foamy covers (there are 4 under each door, if looking at a door from fore to aft, it would be #2 and #3 covers that you remove) and in your case, bring the screws out slightly (1 mm or 2) so the window is driven more towards the interior of the car when it is up. This way, the window will be slightly further away from the seal, hence less friction. Hope this helps!

Good point about the fact that the external AOS receives little coverage in Bentley if I recall correctly.

You are on the right of 0 of 80. Mine runs on the left of 0 usually. Sometimes it gets to where you are but that is rare and where I live on Vancouver Is., the temp. gets rarely beyond 25C. Check for debris in front of your radiators. If there are some, taking out the front spoiler will give you access to both radiators to remove that stuff. An easy DIY.

Happy for you and actually rather envious of your overhauled engine. Many happy kms ahead ...! As Ernest H. once said:"It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end."

Yes, old yellow caps were a bugger. The new black caps you suggest are much nicer to remove. Make sure you hold onto the tube so you don't break it while twisting the cap.

Very interesting, Creekman. I always use the same Shell station to get non-ethanol 91 gas for my C2. A couple of times last year, at the same station/pump, I could not put gas in, at higher rates but only at very slow rate. Lately, it has been fine, so I thought this is a station pump nozzle issue that the owner finally resolved. After reading your saga, it might not be the case and perhaps has more to do with what you are describing. Thanks for sharing! Martin

Dharn: Is the difference readily apparent by the form of the flange or is it a subtle difference? Any pictures of your flange available by any chance? I seem to recall you have a 2000 as well. Any chance of posting the last 4 #s of your ViN? I know JFP but I had to ask since the 2000 are not much different than the 1999 acc. to the renntech guru.

Wow! That amazes me greatly (très surprenant, en effet!) and not necesserily good news. Bon dimanche!

Won't do you much good as 2000 and 2001 M96 engine's can go either way, some were single row, others dual row. Unfortunately, there is no known way to tell which is in the engine without taking it apart and looking. A bit late getting back to you J-F on your response (merci!) but my car is an early production (Aug 99) 2000, so I feel quite comfortable it is a dual-row. If not, I would be extremely surprised. At any rate, excellent tip on these wear pads, something else to me mindfull of in the not-so-far term. Salut!

Just curious! When you replace the IMS on your 2000, please confirm to this 2000 brother that you have a double row. Appreciated!

I also drive a 2000. I got my LED 3rd brake light at this site last year: http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/store/p83/Porsche_996_Led_3rd_Brake_Light_.html Works great, no codes whatsoever. It has a white exterior appearance as shown in the website picture, but lights up bright red. I believe they are located in Florida now.

Thanks Ahsaï! In May 2013, I did replace my transmission oil (Car purchased in Apr 2012) and it did improve the shifts slightly but not enough to get rid of this nagging issue. The shifting is quite acceptable, but one has to give it a little pause at lower RPM before engaging into 2nd or 4th. At higher RPM, it is smoother shifting it seems but, in traffic, one can't always enjoy this high RPM pleasure. At my next oil change in a month or so, I will look at the cables as you wisely suggest. Cheers! Martin