Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

creekman

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    474

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by creekman

  1. creekman
    Mike, Obviously it's something, I installed a short shift kit in my '03' and don't remember any wiring attach to the the shifter? But then again I can't remember what I had for breakfast. On a rare coincidence have you checked the lamps in the tail light housings.... I doubt that the back up lights are on their own fuse, but have you checked that? Keep us posted even if it means embarrassing yourself... Mitch
  2. creekman
    BM, When you say the A/C kicks in what does mean... The first thing I would check is to be sure the clutch on your compessor is engaging, Stick your head under the back bumper close to the A/C compressor then have someone turn the A/C on... You should hear the pulley coming together with the clutch plate. Also, if it's working you can no longer turn the clutch plate.. And you're sure that you have the correct amount of Fregon, I believe our system takes 1.9 lbs. of R134 Freon... Also, it's good to include the year and model of your car. There's a lot of posting on the blowing insulation. I have it and it doesn't seem to have made any difference. I share your frustration as I have a delayed start with my A/C after a cold start of about 5-10 minutes, once the car is warm up the A/C fires right off... I'm sure you'll get some good input from the other members... Good luck and Welcome
  3. creekman
    I love the looks and hips on the wide body... I had a '84' Turbo Look, with original paint to sample, but got tired of the whales tail. I think the 996 is a great design and will hold it's looks for a long time. After all the test of good design is how will it age and look 10-20 years out. I think the 996 will do well, it checks all the boxes for me. I see you're from CA, where is Mendonesia California... LOL
  4. creekman
    Might be an easy place to start, although I replaced it about 4 years ago. I'll give a close inspection and go from there. I replaced the bumper cover with a modified 997 GT2 bumper cover. It was an aftermarket fiberglass piece. It was so far off from fitting, not even close. I already had the wrong one sold to me sold to me by another dealer so I was a concern buyer, the guy swore it would fit. I probably have over 40 hours in fiberglass work to get it this close. The big advantage is for the 3rd water radiator to have good flow through air... Plus, I like the LED DTR lights.... Also, I have 3 front directional lights, 1 in the headlight unit, the LED DTR light has an amber turn signal light and we wired up the fender side marker light to also be a directional light. Thanks all for your help... Mitch
  5. creekman
    356, Good suggestion, that might be a good place to start... It's not under the plastic dome in front of the battery? I don't know if my wide body trunk layout is the same? I had a '53' BeeHive coupe, 'Yr.? Cab, '58' 4 cam speedster, '64' SC. If we had some of these older cars back we would be sitting a little higher on our wallets.
  6. creekman
    Thanks Jon... First off I can see you're a man of many interests and good taste, whether marriages qualify I don't know, ask me how I know. If I remember you get to the valve by removing the trunk upholstery on the passenger side? I hit the search button for fumes, without any success, I'll follow up as you suggest... Mitch
  7. creekman
    I'm getting gas fumes in the garage, but nothing on the floor. I've made sure that the cap was turned tight or it had ratched tight.. Is it possible that the charcoal canister is bad? I might add the fumes are easily detected, but not overwhelming... Thanks, Mitch
  8. creekman
    This is not quite on subject, but along the same lines... I found out the hard way on my 2003 C4S, if you start the car and let it run, then reach in the open window and turn the key off and walk away the interior lights will not turn off until the door is opened and closed... Which leads to a dead battery...
  9. creekman
    Sorry, I saw the "K" and took it for 1,000. You're still spending a pot full of money on a high mileage engine I would really be sure the rest of the engine is worth it. It's obvious you've taken good care of the engine to date. Keep us posted on what you're going to do...
  10. creekman
    Have you done a leak down test to see if the cylinders and valves are in good shape. Not sure since you've come this far you might consider rebuilding the engine. Another 60K failure is the water pump. It just seems like a lot of money in parts and labor to put into a 230,000 mile engine. I appreciate we're talking a lot of money either way...
  11. creekman
    What has your Porsche Service Center said in regards to the rust... No question the rust is extreme, are you sure the shocks are original equipment? I think you'll have to suck it up and have the shocks replaced at your expense. There's always associated cost with owning any car, let alone a Porsche. Wayne Dempsey's book "101 projects for your Porsche" says you could spend up to $3,000 and 20 hours to replace the shocks, bushing, tie rods, , sway bar and associated hardware. If you're a DIY hands on it might be a good project. Dempsey's book would would walk you through the task.
  12. creekman
    Liberato, I think your expectations are rather high... Porsche can't be responsible for how a 15 year plus car has been maintained. Are you the original owner, or have you just recently purchased the car? Either way I think your observation is correct, replace the shocks. Looks like a nice car, enjoy it...
  13. creekman
    I would clean your air controller and MAF sensor.. I had occasional dash lights on my Escalade and the mechanic said he would clean the controller and sure enough it cured the problem. No more error lights and it also remedy the rear cargo door witch was non-op about half the time. Can't hurt anything, I used brake, fast dry...
  14. creekman
    Wow, I never knew that, great information to pass on... I'll certainly look to find the release. OK, assuming the solenoid is bad how do you get to that if you don't have a Bentley's book?
  15. creekman
    I can't imagine how the fuel door could be jammed since it's a simple hinge operation. Was the car lock when you tried to open the gas door? There's a sliding bolt that secures the gas door when the car is locked. Maybe if the car is not locked the sliding bolt is stuck? Why don't you get a second person to lock and unlock the doors while you gently bang on the gas door.
  16. creekman
    Easy peasy... Just take a 18 ga. wire, more or less by 4"- 5" more or less and find 2 female spade connectors that fit over the 2 exposed male terminals. Make up the pigtail with the 2 female spade connectors, install and you have now defeated the clutch safety switch. I'll replace the switch, but for now its a quick fix. Is yours broken... the only advantage I can see is you can start the car without getting in, better have the E-brake set and the trans in neutral. One last comment, if you reach in and start the car, then turn it off reaching through the open window you'll have a dead battery by the next morning. You have to open and close the door for the computer to shut down the interior lights. I'm not sure if all years worked the same way, but that's how my '03' C4S works. I have had a dead battery to prove it... Try it yourself and see if the interior lights time out just reaching through the open window.
  17. creekman
    I didn't know that... thanks,
  18. creekman
    Andrew, Electrical is the least of my talents... but for whatever it's worth wire size depends on distance as well as loads. You're only talking about moving the switches 18"-24"? You would probably be ok using the same wire size, but to cover you self you bump up the wire size. If the roof actuator motor was on a relay then I don't think you have a worry to use the same size wire. My 2 cents... There must be a 'sparky' out there that can give you a yea or ney...
  19. creekman
    I've had my woes with installing the headlight assemblies. On the left side I broke the plastic plug support the right side I couldn't get the directional light to work all the time. Finally figured out the headlight assembly wasn't seating in the plug properly, bought a new tray and that took care of the problem. Mating the assembly with the plug always seems like a vague proposition too me, you're relying on a lot of plastic for alignment. I think you've answered your own question, I would remove the headlight assembly and see if that stops the battery drain. Like you said check the plug for bent pins, be sure you haven't broken the plastic plug support. On my 2003 C4 it's a rather fragile hoop that retains the plug. If you didn't have a problem before and now you do it must be some problem with the plug? Let us know what you find... And congratulations on posting on the forum...
  20. creekman
    Thanks, Your input is always appreciated, I know the members are grateful for your contributions... At Porsche Dealer hourly repair costs you have probably saved us poor folks hundred of thousands of dollars. You're the best...
  21. creekman
    I've had a drain for sometime, at least I think I do... the battery will stay charged for about a week... I finally attached permanently a pigtail for a quick connect to a Battery Minder charger. Thanks for the info, I'll check out what I've got. I've done it before, but did not wait the 45 minutes.
  22. creekman
    I've got a used 58,000 mile differential that I took out of my 2003 car, I'd sell it for $300 FOB Fredericksburg, TX.
  23. creekman
    What about flying, then drive the car home... if you feel reasonably comfortable with your due diligence... The trouble with that is the seller knows he's got ya so you better have all your ducks in a row before you hope that jet... That's how I brought my car home, it was a memorable drive, 19 hours straight through. Is your seller a dealer or private party? Maybe you can find a local Porsche person to look at it. For a fee you can find an agent that will do a pre-buy for you as well. When you say a 9 hour drive is that one way? I'd ask for a 100 pictures, maybe not a 100, but with an i-phone pictures are no big deal. I'd still start out with a CarFax then work your way down the food chain. The annual mileage is really low, which can be a good thing, but it must be a cream puff because it spent a lot of time sitting. Just remember there's a lot of Porsches for sale, you might be better off to find one locally. Although anything locally will have been driven in the snow? Or do most owner's put there car up in winter storage? Keep us posted, it's an interest dilema... Oh, is this going to be a Sunday go meeting car or D/D? Sorry for rambling, another idea is to see if your seller will meet you half way to reduce your drive time. If he's hot to trot he might go for that...
  24. creekman
    I would spend the money for a CarFax report... Ask to see the paperwork for service and repairs. Go through every knob and accessory to be sure everything works. If something doesn't it doesn't mean you're not buying the car, but can be a negotiating tool for a better price.
  25. creekman
    I believe that Porsche of San Antonio charges $160.00/hr. Even if you could afford the car you would be hard pressed to pay that rate. At least I would ... I'd hate to spend $200-$300 for the dealer to scan the system only to find out that it was the sending unit. Depending on the cost of the sending unit I might start there... Can anybody tell which direction is best?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.