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creekman

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Everything posted by creekman

  1. I would just leave it as is, I have broken clips all over the car and they stay together, you might get into more trouble changing out the plug than just leaving it alone. Porsche should rethink this failure. While I'm on a rant there's no consistency on how to release the various electrical plugs and when you do there's a good chance you're going to break one of the release tabs.
  2. Keith, I know that my local Car Quest Auto Parts store carries different quality wiper blades from cheap to expensive. I'm guessing the high quality blades would be an equal to the Porsche blades if they carried them. I think it al depends on how convenient it would be for you to get to a Porsche store. Either way it's not life changing.,. Mitch
  3. Thanks Judgejon... come take a drive... Buford, after your reply I needed to go to the garage and make sure the back end of the car hadn't fallen off. You're a purist and that's ok, you've exaggerated some of the install alterations. I installed 4130 tubing mostly just to finish off the sheet metal. I believe Porsche has pushed the flat 6 about as far as it can go. It's a very complicated engine to get the HP. The clutch, spark plugs, water pump are only good for 60,000 miles, and the list goes on. The V8 makes it breath taking to drive and It's a great road car, but still a grocery getter if that's your choice. Just remember when you're at the Porsche Dealership changing spark plugs at $140/ hr. I'll still be trucking long beyond the life of your engine. What I will admit while the conversion will exceed all your expectations, it's expensive when done right and is not plug and play.
  4. Either way whether the LS motor is lighter or heavier, the difference compared to the HP increase is the big difference. Just think how hard your M96 has to work to get 150 HP more... Hey, it's all in the eyes of the beholder.
  5. First of all the 996 weight depends on it's accessories so its total weight is a moving target. However I don't know what all this leads up to if you want the extra horse power and a simple engine that produces a lot of grunt. I installed a LS3 480 HP, some GM specs says it's 495 HP, I won't argue that point... I put the car on aircraft scales and I'm 160 lb. lighter, however that is with the removal of the front diff. Also all the accessories are attached on the bottom of the engine, not on top, lower CG. The installation uses an electric water pump so no mechanical water pump. I can tell you it's no quick substitute for replacing the IMS bearing, clutch, etc. Making the Porsche and GM computers talk to one another was the biggest challenge. It's not for the shade tree mechanic... Now there's a lot of these conversions that throw used parts at the project, never deal with the blinking lights on the dash and only want to go 0-60 with their hair on fire, but to do it factory takes a lot of time and money. I don't think debating about a few pounds either way is really the question, it's time, money, performance, engine longevity, something different that is breath taking to drive. I took my car into the local Porsche dealership to put it on their OBD machine. When the guy drove the car into the mechanics stall the entire shop stopped working, took pictures, got under the car and were all in awe of the installation. Fortunately I didn't have to pay for the down time... I removed the front differential in favor of putting a taller ring and pinion in the car. At redline in 6th gear it pencils out at 206 MPH, not with me in it... At 80 MPH it's turning 2750 RPM, it's a lot quieter that the Porsche engine that is turning more RPM's. Bottom line, it's simple horse power and when you lift the deck lid you can see a real engine, not an air cleaner. Sorry in advance if I offended anyone...
  6. I have the same problem, but my gauge stops at about 3/8 of a tank. In my case I have an LS3 V8 so I've interrupted what ever metering device was there. I've been told that the sensor in the tank reads to the bottom of the middle tank, then the Porsche computer takes over and computes fuel left and miles to go. So if my information is correct you have a mechanical read to the bottom of the center tank, then a computer read out for the remaining gas in the saddle tanks. There must be a transducer to read fuel flow by the computer. I tend to think you don't have a sensor problem, but a computer problem... I'll be interested in what you come up with, it's a pain to have to be guessing how many miles to go. In my case my mileage can fluctuate from 12 MPG to 24 MPG depending how spirited I drive the car.
  7. It is the orange stuff for aluminum engines... Green for cast iron.
  8. Wasfi , If you go with the stock rear end gears you'll leave all your tire rubber on the street, if you can afford it I would go with a 3:0 ring and pinion. My car turns about 2,800 RPM's at 80 MPH, or red line 205 MPH. If you don't change the ring and pinion you have too much HP for the low gears. Renegade Hybrid in Las Vegas has the adapter housing and clutch assemblies to connect the 350 SBC to the Porsche transaxle. I did all my own mechanical work, but the rub for me was mating the GM ECU to the Porsche instruments, etc. I spent a lot of money with a couple of hi-tech guys to make everything work including the cruise control. 2 Things that still have a hiccup is the temp gauge and gas gauge. I have a wide body car and the gas tank is configured differently, with a standard body car I don't you'll have that problem. As far as the water temp gauge there is no fix for that, it will work for awhile, then quit, I reset it with my OBDII reader and it's good again. I also installed a digital temp gauge as a backup. This conversion isn't cheap if you do it right with new parts so don't be mislead, there's a lot of expenses to make the conversion "factory". If you just want to go 0-60 with your hair on fire then that's another story. I have a LS3 480 HP motor, and it's breath taking to drive... Good luck, if I can help you further, just ask... misery loves company...
  9. It sounds like you already know where you want your seat heater switches to be placed, I had a couple of empties on the horseshoe surround so moved mine there... Made a new bat wing filler. I like this since all the switches are in one place. You'll note that I exchanged places with the cubby and A/C control panel. Again I wanted all the business of switching and controls seamless to one another. I did have to section the cubby to fit, but it wasn't much good anyway other than a place for your iphone.
  10. Roy, Do you have the Duarmetric program to erase faults... That might be one shot, is Loren suggesting that if you had a bad lamp that would make the C/C in-op? Have you depress the button on the end of the windshield stalk. I think that's right?
  11. Turbo, there're two ways... first look in your owner's manual... There is a cable around the right side head light bucket area. Pretty difficult to get to unless you know where it is. The second and easiest would be to jump the electrical lugs at the kick panel fuse panel. You'll need an auxiliary 12 volt source for this. Again this procedure is described in your owner's manual. In my case when I had the front bumper cover off I routed the hood cable to the tow eye plug, so I would just need to pop off the tow eye plug and the cable was right there. Oh, I had to drill an 1/8" hole in the aluminum bumper to pull the cable through to the plug area.
  12. In lieu of a Durametric program try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and see if that clears your fault...
  13. You can go into the fuse panel (I would pull back the panel and work from the back) and use a light probe or multimeter to find switched power.
  14. If you have removed your seat then you'll have to erase the airbag code.
  15. Greg, As the other members suggested it sounds (no pun intended) like a throw out bearing. Usually any mechanic or even a non mechanic for the money will replace the throwout bearing if he gets within 10' of the clutch. It's the cheapest part of a clutch job. Do you have a work order that shows the parts that were installed? Have you tried to isolate the noise by moving the clutch pedal in and out... Sounds like you got a bad shop that won't even discuss your problem. Let us know what you find... Good luck,
  16. We've done that until our pinky's have blisters... I set both the Porsche and Escalade at the old house 10 years ago and it was a no brainerd, but this time it's been a pain.
  17. fpb11, I think we've found the problem, the new doors incorporate both a "rolling technology" and a common security feature. It's a very complex system. I believe I'll need a "repeater" to bridge my 2003 Homelink system with the new doors. I'll stop by the door people tomorrow and see what they have to say, earlier they thought that I might escape the repeater, or at least he said 80% of the time you won't need it. I hate being the other 20%... Thanks for your input.
  18. Thanks for the reply... I've Googled Homelink and read and re-read the instructions, no joy yet.
  19. I have a new house and I can't find any info in the owner's manual on how to cancel the old codes and reset a new code for the garage door operator. I see on newer cars that you press the two outside buttons until the light flashes, but that doesn't seem to work. Plus the owner's manual doesn't show the rear view mirror and the buttons... Thanks,
  20. Creekman here: I sold my motor with all the accessories with 65,000 miles for $7,000. I tried to sell other parts, back seats, rear spoiler mechanism, engine room fans, etc. at give away prices without success. I wouldn't hinge your decision and project on what you'll get for the engine since you'll be a lot deeper into costs than what you'll get out of the Porsche engine, particularly with a 129K miles. However if money isn't the lyinch pin to your project, go for it... The car is breath taking to drive. I believe Renegade has made improvements to "how to" on working out a lot of the electrical issues since I built mine.
  21. The MaxJax has 5 large bolts that screw into permanent anchors in the floor. As long as you have a 4" slab you're good to go. The feature is that you can remove the bolts and wheel the post out of the way when not in use. The post has wheels so it can be moved around without much effort. However I've never moved mine. I just park a little to the rear of the garage so the doors can swing full open without hitting the post. The install is pretty easy, you'll need a rotorhammer for drilling holes in the concrete. I've had my car up and down so many times I couldn't even count. It's great for cleaning wheels, oil changes, removing the belly pans, etc. I'll take more pixs and post. Also the MaxJax dealer was really helpful, I had the need to replace some parts and they sent it out without any questions. Nice people... If anyone ends up installing this lift I can give you some good advise on the install, I came up with some short cuts on the install. If you enjoy working on your car $2,000 for a $30,000 plus car isn't a deal breaker. I wouldn't leave home without it... I'm not a paid employee, but just a happy customer... :-)
  22. I finally bit the bullet and bought a MaxJax 2 post lift that fits under my 8' garage ceiling. I sit on a BoneTail rolling chair and scoot around under the car. The MaxJax lift is good for 6,000 lbs so I feel safe and I don't have to worry about getting a jack under the car and having to rely on jack stands. I appreciate the cost of the lift is signficant, but your life is too. I bought my MaxJax lift from Costco on sale, $1,900, free delivery. You might ralionalize the cost by saving a couple hundred dollars an oil change at the dealer, plus have a lot more fun working on your car.
  23. Some knowledgable soul should do a tech tip on how to release the 996 elelctrical connectors... I can't tell you between not knowing how to make the release and brittle plastic I've broken my share.
  24. GCP... After taking Julie's good advise you might take a hose and water to specific areas of the roof, windshield, door glass, etc. to see if you can duplicate the water accumulation under the seat. Naturally you would start out with a dry floor. It appears that the water is coming in somewhere in the rear seat area, then draining down to the lower driver's seat pan. Do you get the water build up when parked or driving?
  25. I'm wondering if this guy has the complete code for the ECU... I have another issue that if someone had the factory code might solve for me. Would you post the link to this guy? Have you driven your car to see if there is any difference in performance or gas mileage, I'm thinking you might get into more trouble than it's worth... Thanks,
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