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Hilux2400

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Everything posted by Hilux2400

  1. I can understand your getting legal advice, but you also need to think ahead as to what you consider to be a satisfactory outcome for this problem. You have a car that is short of a fundamental component of its drive system that it had at the time of manufacture. It might be dangerous to drive it. It is going to cost you a lot of money to put it right. This might even be more money than it's really worth. If I were in your position I would not do any work on the car as it could be claimed by the vendor that you have damaged it in some way. You need to get this vehicle back to the vendor and get all your money back including your legal costs. I hope you have success and I am sorry to hear that this has happened to you.
  2. My 2003 996 C2 does that also. Occasionally I get a count like that on the second time of starting the car, within about two minutes of the first time, after the car has been standing for several hours. H
  3. As a control mechanism, have you measured a similar new Porsche ICV to see if it gives the same readings as your Boxster ICV? It seems to me that what you do not know at this stage is whether a new Porsche ICV is similar to a new KIA ICV. Also whether there is a margin of acceptability between new Porsche parts. Just a thought. H
  4. I have a similar situation with an "AT" engine. My car is a 2003/996 and the engine dates from late 2005 and possibly put in the car in early 2006. There was no record in the V5 and neither do Porsche have any records other than the number of the engine that was in the car at the time of manufacture. I did not know any of this when I bought the car it was only after asking questions on this site and getting answers from Loren and JFP that things became clear. Great site with some clever and knowledgeable people about. H
  5. good to know for future reference Thank you for the remembering. Hilux
  6. 996 C2 2003 I was checking the lights and noticed that my rear fog light was not working. I thought that this would be simple enough to fix. I removed the light housing and replaced the bulb, but still no light. I thought that both bulbs must be faulty, but when I checked with a meter both were OK. I also thought that if the bulb had gone my warning light would come on, on the dashboard, but it had not. Next I checked the voltage at the bulb holder and found it to be 12.2/12.4. A bit low even with the engine running. I checked the voltage at the jump posts and that was OK. I next checked the input voltage at the light unit multi-plug and found the input was higher than the output, so there was obviously resistance in the plug. When I separated the plug I found that the fog light probe had corrosion on it which was not allowing sufficient current to pass to light the bulb, but enough current was passing to show a meter reading. This is why the dash warning light did not come one. The warning system was recording a "made circuit" so no fault was showing up. However, as the circuit was not "good" the unit would not light the bulb. I think there might be a lesson here for other fault readers. As some faults are recorded through a circuit continuity check, it doesn't mean that the circuit is fully functional. It's always worth looking at the entire track to see if all the connections are sound and there is low resistance throughout. H
  7. I get this problem in the winter, but hardly at all during summer. If I use the car for short journeys in winter it always happens. I do clean the sludge out from the cap and also from the throat of the oil filler tube. H
  8. If you suspect a relay why not just change it. Often relays are generic items and similar relays (just a switch that allows high power transmission) can be sourced from Hella or Bosch. Printed on the relay housing is a rating value and a line diagram of its function. Jumping fuses can be dangerous stuff and can cause fires. The fuse has a function. When power consumption in that track is too high it blows to prevent overheating and damage. It's much better to check continuity of circuits with a meter before you start jumping fuses. Take care H
  9. Do you think it might be the relay? Does the hazard switch always work?
  10. You need to find out if it's in the light unit or the power track. You have done quite a few things so far. I would take out the right headlight. Turn on the lights and after 30 or more seconds check the power block behind the right unit with a meter to establish if all there is power at the block on all the live connections. Check first with a separate earth. If there is power to all the connector points, next check that there is earth continuity. This check will tell you if it is the light unit that is faulty or the power track to the light. If this check shows that all the power lines are OK, borrow a similar light unit and make a substitution. This will tell you if it's the light unit that's faulty. If it's the light unit wire it up on a bench and apply a 12v supply to check the unit. Hope you find the fault. .
  11. You post has prompted me to have another look at the inside of the unit. I don't think it would be an easy job to alter the angle between the high and low beam reflectors.
  12. I have a 996 and have wrestled with a similar problem. For the two adjusters that are grouped, one does vertical and the other does horizontal alignment. The single adjuster to the front does the foglight. From what I can see the "vertical" screw adjusts both the dipped beam and full beam at the same time. At present I have the dipped beam as high as it will go without causing dazzle, but the main beam still seems low. This means that the lights on full beam are not very good. I find this deficiency surprising as when both the full and dipped are on there is over 100 watts of light from the combined source. By comparison my Toyota Yaris projects just 55 watts on full beam, with standard bulbs, and the lights are fantastic. After much fiddling the conclusion I have come to it that the synchronisation between the full and dipped beam light units is wrong and the full beam needs to be turned up a notch from the dipped beam. To do this I need to take the units apart. H
  13. I notice that my 996 2003 expansion cap is the same as the one that was on my 1998 Golf.
  14. I am really looking forward to your results and analysis. It reminds me of parts for my old TR3A in 1962 which were interchangeable with parts from a Ferguson tractor. The agricultural parts were tax free. I had a similar recent experience with a French campervan. I wanted to replace the bathroom sink which was £350 from the manufacturer and just £32 from another source. H
  15. It is probably the brake pad touching the brakes disc, or the metal brake disc guard touching the brake disc. When you steer right it places greater load on the left wheels which has a tendancy to make the brake disc move slightly out of line and touch the pad or the guard. If your wheel bearings are worn this is more likely to happen. Also, you might have something caught between the guard and the disc. Jack up the offending wheel and turn it by hand to see if you can locate the noise. If you can, take the wheel off to get a closer look. If the noise is being caused by the guard just ease it away from the disc with a lever. If it's the disc brake pad making the noise it might be a stone, or a bit of wire, caught on the edge of the pad. Does the noise disappear when you apply slight brake pressure?
  16. Thank you for your replies - very helpful. I will get a dryer, but do I need a specific Porsche dryer or are they generic. Thanks
  17. Hello All from Hereford UK I have a leak in my front left air con rad and have taken the front cowl off to put in a replacement, which I have ordered. There is some pressure in the system so is it OK to just crack open the joint on the tubes running to the rad and allow the pressure to dissipate? To reduce coolant loss would it be OK to use clamps on the rubber hoses or would this ruin them? Should I replace the drier/dessicator up in the scuttle well at the same time, or is this a lifetime product? When I re-connect the rad can I use silicon lubricant or rubber grease on the "O" rings? Should I fill the rad with AC lubricant before connecting up? Once I have put the rad back in I had not intended running the AC, or driving the car, until I get it refilled by a specialist. Thanks for reading
  18. Check the wheel bolts. A slack wheel can produce some odd noises that occur during braking or acceleration.
  19. I am not sure why you want spacers. Putting on a 12mm rear spacer with an ET 58 wheel will push the wheel centre line outwards to an ET of 46mm against a handbook recommendation of 65mm. As a result the edge of your rear wheel rim will be 19mm further out than it should be. Similarly as you have 8.5's on the front, which are 12.5mm overall wider than recommended the combination of this wheel with a 5mm spacer will push the wheel edge out 11mm (6.25 + 5) further out than recommended. An ET of about 46 will push the bead on a 265 tyre outwards beyond the wheel arch on a 996 C2. The ET is the distance inwards from the mounting face of the wheel to its centre line. Spacers decrease the ET value. Just in case I am wrong you need to check the handbook. H
  20. You need to check the offset (ET Value) stamped on the wheel. My 2003 996 C2 is ET50 front and ET 65 back. So the wheel offset with the spacer must come to the right value. ET values are given in the handbook. 8.5 is not a stated rim width for winter tyres. It's either 8 or 7.5 H
  21. My 2003 996 has done 49k and I have put in a magnetised sump drain plug. I just thought that with frequent oil changes together with oil filter inspection I might get some early warning of impending failure if steel particles are caught on the plug magnet. Having said that, at some time in its life at about 2006 my car had a factory replacement engine fitted. Therefore, I am hoping that my engine has a later type of bearing. I know there is a lot of worry about this sort of thing and bad news seems to come up more often than good on these IMS bearings. However, I am sure there are a lot of cars out there, like yours, that have been trouble free on this issue for quite high mileages. H
  22. Look at the engine number and this is something I discovered on my 2003 C2 996 after advice from this board. Although my car is 2003 the engine dates from 2005/2006 and is a Porsche replacement. You can tell if it's a replacement if it has the letters AT in the number. I am also new to Porsche so decided to go for a basic car with tiptronic to avoid possible over rev problems from previous owners. If you do your own stuff a lot of service work is easy and there are lots of tutorials to help. A plug change takes time and I haven't done one yet, but these are infrequent. Although many of the TT and Turbo models are much faster than the basic C2 Tip, it is still a great car and faster than most things on the road due to its excellent handling qualities. Also pay for an independent inspection. It costs a few pounds, but it might point up something that you can't see. Good luck with both your search and choice.
  23. It's surprising but wheel (lug) bolts that are not tight can cause slightly loose wheels to make some unusual noises that are not always constant. Sometimes this knocking can occur on slight overrun when travelling slowly and then disappear as speed builds up. To locate a noise it is a good idea to get a passenger to use a stethoscope and this aids direction to the source. It's always a good start.
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