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Hilux2400

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Everything posted by Hilux2400

  1. I looked at one of the pics and enlarged it. I then noticed you can scroll and found quite a few other pics that you might not want to show, like your lawnmower. You might want to delete some stuff.
  2. I've got my money on the Klingon deflector shield.
  3. I also have a plug in that area that doesn't seem to have a socket, but there is a blank receiver to keep it in place. I assumed it was for some device that I do not have. I also look forward to the replies.
  4. Try and do these checks with the car on level ground. Top up to the correct levels, but I prefer to see the oil just below the full mark. Check them again in a few days time when the car is cold and in the same location as before, or on level ground. Watch out for coolant drips on the left exhaust pipe (looking from the back). This could signify a split coolant header tank. If the water loss is slight it could be a defective coolant cap. Worth replacing for a start at about 20$.
  5. I fitted a magnetic oil drain plug in my 996, which was also my first Porcshe. I thought it might help in giving an early indication of IMS bearing failure. I also changed the coolant header tank and AOS (Air Oil Separator). An oil and filter change is easy and about the easiest of any car I have ever owned. Air filter is easy too and give the throttle body a clean up at the same time. Put in a decent battery with a CCA of about 800A. There's a good thread here on battery replacement. Happy driving. I smile whenever I get in my 996. H
  6. Thank you. You have just beaten me to it and just to prove that I have looked:
  7. Thank you both for your replies. I will go and look.
  8. My post above is wrong. So rather than correct it I thought I would admit to my error and avoid confusion. The sender is NOT where I thought it was(is). So I have to ask: Where is the temperature sender for the engine compartment cooling fan on a 996 C2 2003 model Tip? Thanks for reading. H
  9. I suppose you could test the sensor by giving it a blast with a hair drier or a heat gun on a low setting. I think the sender on my 996 is just below the plate for the catch that holds the engine cover.
  10. I never have an oil level that is above the "max" mark on the dipstick, neither do I like to see it too close to the low mark. Why not get the oil level right and see if it solves your smoke problem?
  11. Thank you. Those are really interesting threads. Particularly the posting that refers to the inclusion of the "X" for rebuilt with some parts and "AT" which is exchange. What is the state of an exchange unit? Does it come ready assembled with all necessary parts such as alternator, air con, power steering, manifolds, and belt etc all set up, or is it just a bare block and heads? What's the feeling on a poll to find out the extent of exchange engines currently in use, such as those bearing an "AT" stamp?
  12. dylanjl, I don't know if you have seen another thread that I started recently where engine numbers featured, but I also have AT in my group which reads: M96/03AT 665 66*** Here you will see in my group that the AT is in a different location. I am pleased that you started your thread as it was the source of my finding out what the AT stands for (Exchange). From excellent sources on this board I was told that for the the group 665 the last digit "5" gives the year of manufacture. In your case the "W" will do that, which is for 1998 I think. In my car the original engine had the group 663 indicating a 2003 engine consistent with the car's year of manufacture. As for the "AT" Porsche UK could not tell me what the letters stand for. However, the technicians in my nearest Porsche dealership in the UK think that it could mean that the engine has been replaced at some time. The parts catalogue does not recognise the number when the letters AT are included. It would be an interesting thread to find out how many 996 Porsche vehicles have exchange engines with the stamp "AT" Best of luck with your quest.
  13. Well, I contacted Posrche UK who tell me that the original engine in my car had the number M96/03 663***** which as you say, from the 663 prefix, is consistent with an engine fitted in 2003. Therefore, my 2003 car had a different engine fitted sometime in late 2005/early 2006 with the Number M96/03 AT 665*****. Porsche would not confirm this fact in writing without receiving a fee of £65 claiming that it would be a legal document. What I found really interesting is Porsche UK had no idea what the "AT" stands for, allegedly claiming its presence as a complete mystery. Now we know that "AT stands for:Austausche, which means exchange in German. I have asked Porsche UK to seek information from a higher authority in Germany. However, I am unlikely to receive a letter unless I pay for it. I am pleased that I have discovered the engine change and I am hopeful of receiving confirmation of the fact from Porsche. It's still a great car, made even better with a newer engine.
  14. That's just brilliant as in 2006 its recorded mileage was 17K and now it's 46K, so it has only done 30K on the new engine. Once again thanks for your help. Great site and have a recommendation. H
  15. Thanks for the swift reply. I have looked at the VIN decoder, but confirmation is useful. What about the "AT" in the engine number. I see from a similar current thread that this could refer to: "AT is short for Austausch". Does this mean that my engine has had a factory rebuild at some time? Regards H
  16. I have a 2003 Carrera 2 Tiptronic. I am not sure if it is and "S" . There is no "S" on the rear, it just says Carrera. Now in the generic Carrera handbook there are two descriptions for the 2 wheel drive Carrera. It is either a Carrera or a Carrera Tiptronic S. In terms of engine output there are two ratings in the handbook for the Carrera: Engine type M96/03 (320Hp) Engine type M96/03S (345Hp) High power version The engine number of the vehicle is: M96/03AT 66566759 (I assume the AT refers to the transmission type?) The vehicle's VIN is : WPOZZZ99Z 3S607135 (Is the "S" the giveaway here?) Is it the case that all Tipronic models are called: Carrera Tiptronic "S" as they are fitted with the higher power engine? and that all manual models are either: Carrera or Carrera S depending on whether they are fitted with either the 320Hp engine or the 345Hp engine?
  17. You can understand that with truck tyres temperatures might get that high as they are carrying a high load and there is quite a bit of continuous deformation at the contact point. I experience similar changes in the rear tyres of a Mercedes 4 tonne vehicle that we have. The tyres run at about 70psi, but even at that pressure there is good bit of sidewall movement which causes them to get hot after a long motorway run. This tyre temperature increases with ambient temperature, but I have never found them to be so hot that they cannot be touched. Porsche tyres run at a lower pressure, about 45psi, with very little sidewall deflection. I would be surprised to see them reach 170F in normal use. H
  18. 170F is about 76C in new money. That's too hot to touch with comfort and almost the same temperature as your coolant under normal conditions. Have you got this right? Do you mean that your rims are too hot to touch after a run? Brake rotors can get very hot after use and cannot be touched and so can that part of the wheel near the hub where it connects on the interface. As Ahsai says, my wheels rims also get warm after a run, but 170F seems high to me. Are your tyres running below the right pressure? After a short run of 10 miles today I tried my rims and although warm they were not uncomfortable to touch.
  19. If I were you I would remove the excess oil from the sump. Either suck it out through the dipstick tube or drain the entire sump contents and refill with the correct amount. An overfilled oil sump can cause quite a bit of damage as oil get into combustion chambers and then into the cats. Cars like Porsches with horizontal engines are more susceptible to high oil levels than cars with more conventional engines where the pistons move up and down. Porsche pistons move horizontally, so excess oil can rest on the bores and then seep past the rings when the engine is not running. When the car starts this oil unites in the combustion process and blows out as smoke from the exhaust . As other have said DO NOT OVERFILL WITH OIL. Best of luck. H
  20. Sounds like your clutch is slipping and on its way to complete failure. In a car with a manual gearbox, when it is in gear and the clutch is engaged (foot off pedal), the car should move forward when power is applied. If power is applied and the car does not move, it means that the clutch does not have any bite. In the other higher gears, when you press the gas pedal does the engine speed rise without a corresponding increase in vehicle speed?
  21. Take a look at this thread: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/2950-battery/ I recently replaced the battery in my 2003 996. I put in 80Ah with a CCA of 800A. Made a big difference to cranking speed and reduced the need to charge the battery during idle periods. H
  22. On my 996 it's a lot easier to get at stuff with the rear end removed and then remove the exhaust shields. It's really easy to get these bits off. I assume the 997 would be much the same. When removing the rear end look out for the screw that is just inside the wheel arch where the cowling meets the main body. You will need to apply a cross head driver vertically upwards to get at it. The other screws are obvious. H
  23. I have a 2003 Carrera C2 and have had intermittent coolant leaks. I take the view that this is a continuing problem with these cars as they have more connections, some three way, than the average domestic central heating system. I check the coolant level frequently when the car is cold and with the car always in the same location in the car port. One of the best options is to pressurise the system. There are quite a few kits on the market. Look out for one that is compatible with VW cars from around 1998/1990 as they have the same size coolant reservoir cap. Pump the system up to about 1 bar (15psi) and watch the pressure. Don't be concerned if it loses pressure immediately as that's due to the coolant being forced into odd air pockets. The pressure will probably set after a few minutes and then should hold for at least 2/3 minutes if the system is OK. My last coolant leak was on the allow vent return pipe from the rads to the reservoir. This pipe is about 4ft in length with about 12 bends. The pipe had been rubbing on the bodywork. Best of luck. H
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