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SpawnyWhippet
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Everything posted by SpawnyWhippet
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The battery was load and specific gravity tested by Autozone and they said it's fine. I cleaned all the terminals and reinstalled it. This evening, the fault occurred again after 1 hour of highway driving. I was driving at 70mph on a very busy freeway when the car lost all drive again, as if it was in neutral. The gear selector was still in Drive. I coasted through 5 lanes of fast traffic, stopped and put it into Park, but it didn't engage Park and kept rolling. There were red transfer case and parking brake errors flashing by the gear lever and on the console. I restarted the car several time with no change - I could not engage any forward, reverse or park position. Then I tried to adjust the Diff Lock, Reduction etc and cycle back to normal. The car then allowed me to engage gears, but the ride height reset itself from Low to Normal without me touching it. I drove the last 2 miles home without problems. I have to get this problem fixed before it kills me or my wife and some poor unsuspecting driver who smashes into me when my car suddenly drops from 70 to 40 in 2 secs for no reason. :cursing: :censored: :wrench: -
I'll give it a go. Open to any solutions right now, this thing is driving me nuts, and both my other cars are off the road at the moment. Are the load and specific gravity tests something I can do myself, or do you need specialist equipment and skills? I have a pretty well equipped garage.
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No, I haven't tested the battery, but it is not very old, maybe 3 years max. Would this be able to cause the errors with the PSM and 4WD, as these only occur after long high speed drives where I would expect the battery voltage to be at its peak. The other faults regarding the lights etc don't concern me at the moment, the PSM and 4WD faults are extremely dangerous when you suddenly lose drive at 70mph on the highway.
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Thank you for this info, I am will look into it when I've sorted the problems with the PSM and 4WD faults.
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These are the only errors in my car currently: Porsche Stability Management (PSM/ABS8) Current Fault Codes 2053: Transfer box control module Please read out fault memory Vehicle Electrical System Current Fault Codes 978: Left dipped headlamp - Open circuit/short circuit to B+, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 907: Load management operat. on vehicle electrical sys./DME control module - No additional fault status available, test conditions are not-completed, fault is currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1320: Air-conditioning system regulator control module - No signal/communication, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 1520: Rain sensor/light sensor - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light 2197: Potentiometer for footwell lights - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light
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So after all of my servicing, I am still getting these errors on long, high speed highway driving (over 2 hours). If I shut down the car and restart immediately, the errors go away, but return much quicker if the car is hot (within 10 mins). If I let the car cool down completely, they do not return until I do another long, high speed drive.
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Motor Meister?
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Should I Trade A '99 Boxster For A '70 911T?
SpawnyWhippet replied to gregoogle's topic in 911, 912 Series
I'll see your two Boxsters and raise you. 1970 911's are much more valuable and appreciating in value, Boxsters have a while before they start going up. My 911T is much more engaging and challenging to drive, but it does drive like a 40 year old car - don't get one and expect it to keep up with a modern Mini. -
Did you buy the car from a Wayne Krieger or Motor Meister? There are a number of dodgy Porsche sellers in NorCal and they have been known to tamper with the VIN to 'upgrade' the cars for free. The VIN decoder or COA will tell you what it should be.
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I have visited their premises and it most definitely did not make me think of Beverly Hills. The cars have been well photographed... I went to buy a 1969 911S for only $45k - it looked moderately good as a restoration candidate in the pics, just needed back-dating to a longhood from a mis-guided 'updating' at some point. In the flesh, it was a complete basket case and I didn't buy it. I looked at all of the many Porsches in stock and all were very rough, so I bought elsewhere. You may find a cheap one, but you will certainly need access to some bodywork skills.
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I did follow the DIY step by step, especially the parts about engine running, cycling the gears through in between fills and oil at 41C. I never had the engine off at any point during the fill procedure, apart from when I stopped for an hour to let the oil cool down to 40C again. However, to be sure, I tried again today and had the car on jacks, running in drive (wheels spinning) as I tried to get the last quart in. I could not get another drop in the transmission without it coming back out again, so I have only 7.5 quarts. Is this likely to damage my box - should I take it to a shop and see if they can do any better?
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Hi, please refer to my first post. I made the filling tool and did cycle the car through the gears throughout the filling process and i was following that DIY. I still can't get more than 7.5 quarts in
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My 2008 Pig S with 50,000 miles has just developed cracks in the center bearing. I ordered the Vertex replacement bearing and will fit it when it arrives. It was under $500 inc shipping from fleabay. Apparently the job takes under an hour, although I always double these estimates as I seem to be a slower mechanic than everyone else on the internet. :huh: The reason I don't want to split the shaft to get the old bearing off is to avoid any shaft balance issues.
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I sealed the new gasket with ATF-RTV gasket paste and all seems good now. I still could only get 7.5 quarts in at 41C. Thanks very much for all your help guys, you saved me a lot of pain and money!
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Thanks for all your advice. I pulled the pan back off and cut a slot in the broken bolt and managed to remove it successfully. Just need to source a replacement now. The advice about the O ring in the filter was correct - it had not seated correctly when I replaced it. I am reinstalling today with the benefit of daylight to help. :-) I am now investigating the seepage, it seems there are a couple of erroneous stamped slots in the mating edge of the pan exactly where the seepage is occurring. These slots are in no other part of the pan. I'll try to make sure it is surgically clean before reassembly, but this may be the cause of the seep.
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I am changing all the fluids in the car and the gearbox is nearly the last one to do. This was where it all came unstuck. I removed the pan, put the new filter, o-rings and gasket in and re-attached the sump pan. I followed the tutorial on this DIY section as I went, filling the transmission slowly and cycling through the gears then back to park every few mins before adding another half quart. I repeated this at least 8 or 9 times. My transmission fluid was at over 40C according to my Durametric but no matter what, I could not get more than 4.5 quarts in the car before it drained out. I then noticed I was getting some seepage along the edge of the new gasket so I pulled the pan back off and reseated the gasket. Still getting seepage, so I tightened the bolts a little more and one snapped off. The seepage increased. So I now have 4 questions. 1. How hard is it likely to be to drill out and put a new bolt in there? I have a pretty extensive tool kit, but no access to a car lift, just jack stands. 2. Any ideas why there should be seepage with the new gasket? 3. Why would the transmission not take more than 4.5 quarts, when it should take twice that much? 4. Would I risk damage if I drove the car to a shop about 1 mile away with a half filled transmission?
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I did a fluid change on my transfer box and found out that it had hardly any in there at all, maybe half a cup drained out. I cleaned the electrical connections and filled with new fluid and will see if that fixes it.
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Could also be a suspension issue on the side it pulls towards
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Wow, maybe its time to sell this one... Do you know what error codes you were getting for the steering rack sensor? I have nothing like that on my Durametric, and I've seen other forum threads where people had bad electronics or connections on the transfer case. My car has always been a Norcal car and the only time it gets wet is when I wash it, so maybe I don't have those problems with the water on the connectors under the drivers seat.
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The primary reason I am posting here is to understand the problems with loss of drive when traveling at high speed, as this is very dangerous when you are doing 70mph and the car suddenly loses all forward drive. Can anyone shed any light on this based on my codes listed above?
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My 2008 Pig S rear tailgate glass has been broken by the car being reversed into a garage with the glass hatch inadvertently open. There seems to be plenty of 2004 cars being parted out, will these 2004 hatches fit a 2008? The tailgate is still fine, I just need the glass part.
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OK, after a 40 min jaunt around, I scanned again and there was only 1 fault code: Air Conditioning Current Fault Codes 1810: Drive motor for temperature valve right Nothing about the transfer case, which I expected, as the warnings did not flash up on the instrument cluster. How would I troubleshoot all these other faults further?
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Ah, I am familiar with that, I thought you meant something to do with crawling under the car and checking to see if servos were moving! Just checked, it works fine. I can hear something under the car, the dash symbols and red LED's all operate correctly. I've just cleared all the fault codes, now I'll take it for a drive and read them again.
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Sorry, I am not familiar with this process. How would I do that and check the function? The battery was replaced about 2-3 years ago.
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There are loads available here. I usually search on Craigslist and Autotrader. You can find them from $10k upwards, but the sweet spot seems to be mid $20's will get you a 2008 Cayenne S. Depending on your budget and technical skills, you could either invest in a Durametric cable and check over the cars yourself. (One off fee of $300 ish to buy it), or pay someone else to inspect the cars for you. This can cost anything from $150 upwards. I had my 2004 Cayenne Turbo inspected by a local garage that works on Mercedes, BMW and Porsche. The guy missed a few things, but also caught a few things that more than paid for his inspection.
