davej_anderson

If you car didn't come with door speakers then they definately aren't pre-wired. Upgrading the whole system and using the stock wiring pins seems pointless. I ran new cables into the doors (a real pain in the hoop) but believe that it was worthwhile. Only thing is that if the doors need to come off, the wiring needs to be taken out and redone.

Cassiebox- Actually, I have already upgraded the factory speakers. Put new Alpines in both the dash & door. But with the factory amp still in, they sound as crappy as the factory Nokia speakers that came out. That's why I want to replace the Becker CDR-220 with a higher powered head unit and wire the speakers directly into it and bypass the amp. Any advice on hard wiring? Which set of plugs at the amp location go to the speakers? Are you sure you want to replace the HU? The Becker units are actually pretty good. The problem you have is that the new speakers are probably underpowered by the amp. You'd be far better off installing a new amp instead of the HU and run the speakers off the amp. Also, did you fit larger speakers to the OE door enclosures? If yes, then the speakers won't be working efficiently - far better to mount on a wooden baffle.

I think its great, I've got the PSE on my car: The pre-facelift boxster rear end always seemed too high and this was the perfect solution

Yes you can but on the 02- model there is a pre-tensioner charge and electrical connector - make sure you block off the connector. Quite a simple job as long as the main bolt undoes easily.

I retrofitted door speakers to my car which only had the base audio pack. Its a pain in the hoop. The way I did it was to feed the speaker wire through the existing cable tidy from inside the cabin, enlarge the hole in the connector and feed it through both sets of connectors (instead or using the pins which Porsche says you should in it technical bulletin) and feed the wires again up through the cable tidy into the doors. It does mean, however, if they want to take the door off, the speaker wire needs to be pulled all the way back through. To get the wires through the firewall, there is a rubber grommet just behind the battery that you can pierce and feed the wires through there. Make sure to seal it up again using some silicone sealant or you might get wet feet!

Yep I added an MDF speaker ring to add some weight/damping to the OEM factory bracket

Darly I fitted a set of 3way rainbow speakers (365 SLCs) connected to a 2channel Genesis amp to my '00 S which only came with the basic audio pack. PM me if you've got any questions (although I must confess that I'm not ICE genius and probably wouldn't go through the process as it took me months to complete as I didn't have a garage to work in - the car was parked on the street so taking the doors apart got many strange looks from onlookers in London!)

If you have the basic system then all you have is 2 3.5" speakers. As a quick upgrade, you can replace these with a 4" coaxial - this will require the speaker cover to be modified to secure the speaker to it. I had the basic system and installed a set of 3-way rainbow speakers powered by a genesis 2 channel amp. Hardest bit was building the baffles for the door speakers then routing the cables into the doors as they are not pre-wired.

PM me your email address if you want a guide I put together for installing a Becker Traffic Pro (showing speed, reverse and gps connections etc)

so i need the panels? i alreafdy got the amp to retro install I'm currently going through the process of completely overhauling the stereo in my '00 S which only had the base stereo. Its a big job and a pain in the *** if you don't have a workshop/garage to work in. But basically I've added a Genesis 2 channel amp and a set of Rainbow 3-way speakers. I bought a new set of door cards as I wanted to try to keep everything looking as OEM as possible but here's a list of everything I needed to do: 1. replace dash speakers with tweeter and midrange speaker which involved cutting the original speaker mount to enable the fitment of the larger midrange and tweeter and then epoxy securing them. 2. make a custom baffle to add the woofer and mount to the door 3. sound proof the door i.e. make the door the enclsoure 4. mount the crossovers under the dash 5. mount the amp in the front boot 6. wire everything up - ie getting RCA and remote from the HU to the amp, wiring the amp for power off the battery and the hardest part - getting speaker wire into the doors for the woofers In retrospect, would I do this again, maybe. Its been a long and hard slog and the improvement is huge but was it worth it, who knows......

Ill see if removing the key does anything Thanks for your help

Yep I'm from London and yep, its very loud as I've found out in the past! And it takes a while to reconnect and get the jey back in the ignition making me popular with the neighbours. The only reason I asked was due to the warning about working near the airbag which I will be doing when adding speakers to my door. Looks like I just have to go with key in the ignition and the battery disconnected.

Did you leave the key in the ignition?

Reading some of the TSBs and the workshop manuals, I noticed that some instructions tell you to remove the negative connector on the battery and then to remove the key e.g. removing the door. Surely this will cause the alarm to go off as I thought you had to leave the key in the ignition turned to position II when removing the battery to stop the alarm going off. Any insights or thoughts as to why Porsche would tell their staff to do this? Or am I wrong and you can remove the key once the battery has been removed?

I got the Porsche S/S installed at the weekend and its great. My shifting was quite stiff and notchy when cold - this hasn't gone away but the stiffness and notchyness with the reduced throw makes it feel a lot more precise. I hated the length of thrown from 1st to 2nd, now its spot on. I also find that its easier to select the gear I want when really pushing it without having to hun around the gearbox for a quick shift.

creating a sealed enclosure should do it and will tighten up the bass as well!

Are your front speakers only the dash mounted speakers? Have you replaced your front speakers? If not, that's the next thing you have to do - either go for a set of co-axs or a component set is more ideal. This will improve the sound quality immediately. I imagine that your amp will provide more power and a much cleaner signal to your front speakers which is where you should be aiming for the sound stage to be coming from. The rears should ideally be used simply to add in some fill rather than trying to create a "surround sound" which isnt great from a SQ standpoint. But if you like your system that way then enjoy it. You're never going to create a sealed enclosure (I imagine that's what your subs require although they could be designed for ported or freeair - can you let us know) using the rear firewall as you have the carpet in the way. Any area where the sound waves have the ability to escape or be altered effects not only the sound but also the efficiency of the enclosure and the sub. Looking at your pictures, you've drawn the rears as angular surfaces. This means that it will be very easy to enclose using a couple sheets more of wood, some screws and some silicone sealant on the joins. Make sure to also build in some binding posts so that the boxes can be removed easily. Attach the boxes to the car using some velcro if you want and you may want to add a grill to the woofer area to ensure it doesn't get damaged. You've done a great job on the enclosures so far but you really do need to seal them to get anywhere near as good as you expect.

Sorry if this sounds negative but you're never going to be able to get the deeper and tighter bass that you're after with the rear of the enclosure open. Even if you secure it to the firewall with bolts (velcro is good to hold in position but not as a means to seal the mounts), this is only going to marginally improve the situation. My advice would be to try to enclose the mounts that you've already made and that way they really would be very easy to remove when selling your car. You'll hear a huge amount of difference if you do this! Also, is there any reason why you're driving your front speakers from the HU and not the amp. You would be better off driving the front speakers off your amp and using the HU to drive the rear speakers to provide a small amount of infill. The way you've set it up sounds like there would be a bias towards the rear speakers which is never good from a SQ point of view. Good luck - looks like you're nearly there with a good set up!

Well I bought myself a set of these: In essence its a normal socket that fits on the end of a ratchet with spiral teeth with a reverse thread. I soaked the bolt with penetrating fluid and after about a minute or 2 of swearing and cursing, the bolt finally gave way. I have no idea how strong the booga was who put this on - I'm hardly a svelte chap and it took some effort to release. Having looked at the damage I had caused to the bolt, its actually a very soft metal which I found strange. Oh well, just need to get a new bolt now...

At least on the early model cars (MY97-MY99), the torx bit that is required is actually a security torx bit. The size is T20 or, more correctly TS20. If you look at the head of the two screws, you will see that there is a protrusion in the middle of the screws which makes the security bit necessary. It could just be that the set you bought is just slightly off. Regards, 1schoir. I've got the security style ones as indeed the head has the protusion. Off to buy another set today and hopefully they will fit!

The idle speed of my engine is sometimes a little unhealthy and having read a few posts on different forums, I thought that I'd try cleaning my MAF to see if that would help. The torx bits required are the security ones with the hole in the middle so I bought a set. I thought that the size was T20. Now the set I've got says TS20 which I assumed would be OK but it appears to be ever so slightly too big. Have I bought the wrong size or am I just really unlucky and have bought a dodgy cheapo set?

I know what tools you mean. It was the socket wrench that rounded off the edges to start with as the bolt appears to tightened beyond belief (the other seatbelt was a breeze to remove). I used the spanner afterwards so that it would utilise the flat edges of the bolt. I may have to dremmel the old seatbelt off which is annoying as I wanted to try to sell the pair on eBay or keep them in case I want to swap them back when I sell the car. Has anyone heard of bolt extractors e.g. Irwin bolt extractors?

HELP Whilst changing my seat belts to some red ones I picked up all was going well until I went to remove the main bolt on the passengers belt (a pic here taken from someone else's thread): I've slightly rounded the head using my spanner and the bolt just won't budge. As its in such an awkward position, I can't get the spanner in any other way. Whomever tightened this bolt originally used way too much pressure! Anyone got any tips or suggestions as to what I can do?

to hook up to the reverse signal, you need to connect the provided wire+connector you got with the HU to a wire under the passenger seat (UK car) and then plug into socket A position 2 of the HU loom. if you remove the seat you'll see a control box and a bundle of wires. The reverse signal wire is a black wire with a blue stripe and should be included in one of the bundles capped off with a black cap pm me your email and i'll send you the write up i did for a 2000 boxster (no sound pack) the speed signal should already be hooked up to your existing head unit going into socket A position 1 of the HU loom

I've gotten hold of a PSE 2nd hand but all I got was the exhaust. Are there any extra bolts or clips that I need to get or can I use all the fittings used to hold the stock muffler in place? Thanks