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darrinsmith

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Everything posted by darrinsmith

  1. Maybe you could try getting the dealer to code/enable the phone module? Even though it doesn't exist the tooki should respond as a phone? Might be tricky to make a call though without the buttons. Won't cost you much to try the coding, Replacing a PCM is a costly exercise. And requires dealer coding. My PCM had the phone button but no phone module. I installed a Denison and it works just like the factory module, although you get a phone not found error every time you start the car and the audio is crappy, mobridge is better. Cheers DS
  2. Sorry about the delay, here's a pic. As you can see the filter has basically fallen apart. I read somewhere that someone had made a new one out of a lawn mower filter element. It's certainly very similar material. But this pump appears to be a relatively common AC Delco unit (It says Made In USA), so there must be a filter out there somewhere. Cheers DS
  3. Hi I have my turbo apart to fix the dreaded t-pipe (I have a brass solution that I will post soon!) I also took my air pumps apart to clean them (as I removed them to access the pipes at the back of the engine) and one of the filters is cactus. I know they don't get used much, but it's really dusty where I live so I'd like to replace them to avoid the pump failing and generating an error. There's no listing I can find in the parts catalogue, only the whole pump. I've heard it's the same as a Camaro air pump, probably made by AC Delco??? Can anyone help with a replacement? Cheers! DS
  4. +1 to Hahnmgh63. Here's the link to the unit. http://navtv.com/product/218/most-hur-955.html?forceShowProduct=1 Note the last point (infrared steering wheel commands to Kenwood or Alpine (only) aftermarket radios). So you'll need a suitable kenwood or alpine head unit budget about $1K I guess cheaper if you shop around. So probably about $1,600 all up if you DIY. The main issues I've head with installing these is just getting the config file correct for the head unit, and something to do with the volume settings for the BOSE amp. I was seriously considering one as I have the older CD based unit and Porsche Australia aren't making any more NAV updates for it. (Last one was in 2008), but it's a lot of $$ to spend just for the NAV function. Cheers DS
  5. Hi With the MOST optical system your only real options are 1) use a Denison or mobridge to hook you phone in, both have pros and cons, I have both, one in each car and they both have things that are good and things that suck. 2) use the nav tv Mosthur device, nav tv dont give much away on their website, and it only supports a few head units. Alternatively you replace head unit and use one of the can bus interfaces to maintain steering wheel controls and ditch the Bose amp. Keep in mind though that the Bose system runs on 2 ohm speakers so you either need new speakers or amps that will drive at 2 ohms. Fortunately most good amps alpine etc can drive 2 ohms. You are going to really struggle to do any of the above on your budget. Best of luck. Cheers DS
  6. Sorry guys one more. So I got the top aluminium pipes out (the bottom one is still giving me trouble!). It looks like the dealer used some sort of pink stuff on the seals (or else the coolant has made it pink). What should I be using in re-install, I though it should be a lubricant like the porsche grease or similar. This stuff was like a sealant. Those top pipes were super tough to get out! Thanks DS
  7. It was one I got off eBay. Just search "Porsche drl controller". They are actually a generic item not Porsche specific though. The same item is normally listed for every car on the planet!
  8. Thanks hahnmgh63 I'll go for the redline. I can get that on eBay from a supplier in Sydney who imports it from the USA at a reasonable price. The nulon is gl-5 but as its an unknown quantity ie. untested in these cars I'll give it a miss for the sake of a few dollars. Cheers! DS
  9. Does anyone know if you can use Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil (fully synthetic) for the front and rear diffs? Any thoughts on Nulon (Aus brand) http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Gear_and_Differential_Oils/Full_Synthetic_75W-90_Performance_Smooth_Shift_Manual_Gearbox_and_Transaxle_Oil/#.UZ2Rrb6Q-Uk Mobil 1 is not available to end consumers in Australia due to licensing deals Mobil has made with manufacturers. Thanks DS
  10. You'll love this.... so I go to remove the rear upper retaining bracket from the aluminium pipes only to discover that I can't. The stealer had reused the old superseded part (94810605903) rather than the new 2 piece bracket (94810625900/94810626900), AND had the balls to charge me for the new brackets! Sent off a "please explain" e-mail.... Can't figure it out, it would have been such a PITA to replace with the old part, the new one would have been much easier... Oh Well, I'm really glad I decided to tackle this job myself now...
  11. Thanks Definitely off to the plumbing store to source brass T. The front one wvicary is talking about looks like crankcase ventilation. Ill look at that too. Might take some pics of the starter removal seeing as how theres no DIY. Got the whole top off this arvo, took about 1.5 hrs.
  12. Thanks. I've decided I'm going to do the job myself. While I'm in there I'll do the starter as well, as it does screech every now and then. I don't see a DIY for the starter. I assume it's just remove connectors and a couple of bolts and replace? I'm also replacing the coolant tank cap as a precaution, but I'll pressure test the whole system when I finish. Thanks DS
  13. The interior lights don't need load resistors. I just swapped my internal with led wedge globes from china. The whole set was less than $15 with postage, so you definately don't need an expensive set from a fancy "tuning" shop. I did choose to leave the reading lights as normal as the LEDs are so bright I find them too distracting if the passenger is reading etc at night.
  14. +1 for pknI had this exact same symptom just before my 2003 turbo dumped its coolant out the back of the engine. It runs all over the transmission. Caused the trans to go into 5 and it wouldnt shift at all. Check your coolant level when it's cold to be sure. Cheers DS
  15. Hi My turbo dumped all it's coolant out the back of the engine on Thursday, bummer..... I had the aluminium upgrade done in December 2008 at the local "dealer" at a cost of nearly $5K (which admittedly did include replacing the water pump, all the pencil coils and the horns and $60 for a loan car!) We were advised to replace all sorts of little pipes and hoses (I have an invoice with a full page of parts!) but they didn't do either of the awful 95510632350 or 94810603551 as I suspect it was deemed "too difficult" and they probably "looked OK"! While they're in there again, are there any other pipes etc, on the back of the engine they should look at. I'm tossing up a starter motor also, as the car is a 2003 with over 220,000km on it, so I can't complain really I guess. There's estimating about $1250 this time (all parts and labour at "trade"). I'm not expecting any further "goodwill" from them or Porsche Cars Australia though, especially as they saw fit to refuse the warranty claim on the spoiler on my 996 turbo as it was 2 weeks out of warranty! (The salesman always wonders why I never buy any cars from him!) Thanks for your input! DS
  16. Would you believe I got into the car this morning, and it all seems to be working correctly now?!?!? The only thing I did differently was I used the "clear errors in all modules" function of Durametric (just under the short test all modules menu item). However I still suspect the A/C control unit. My car is a 2003 and the unit is original. Is the control unit the same as the unit with the switches and temp displays on it, just above the ashtray? That's a relief that thing just pops right out.... Thanks DS
  17. Daylight Running Lights on Cayenne Turbo 2003 Hi Everyone. I finally got around to putting some DRL's on my 2003 Cayenne Turbo. After my wife had a bad t-bone in our 911 after a guy ran a red light driving into the sun, I'm sure that DRL's would have helped against the Porsche Silver "cloak of invisibility"!. Anyway I chose some cheap DRL's and a DRL controller from e-bay. I controller is really neat, in that it only requires wiring to the battery, and it detects the voltage increase when the car is running and turns the lights on Author darrinsmith Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Mods Submitted 04/20/2013 05:17 AM Updated 03/19/2017 06:19 AM
  18. Hi Everyone. I finally got around to putting some DRL's on my 2003 Cayenne Turbo. After my wife had a bad t-bone in our 911 after a guy ran a red light driving into the sun, I'm sure that DRL's would have helped against the Porsche Silver "cloak of invisibility"!. Anyway I chose some cheap DRL's and a DRL controller from e-bay. I controller is really neat, in that it only requires wiring to the battery, and it detects the voltage increase when the car is running and turns the lights on. When you stop the car and the voltage drops down to resting, the module senses this and shuts the lights off after a 30 second delay, which is really nice. It also has the option to flash the lights if you connect the respective wires to the flasher circuit and to also dim the LED's when you switch the headlights on. I didn't connect either of these as I thought it would interfere with the cayenne's faulty bulb detection and also the DRL's I chose are not so bright that they need to be dimmed at night. Total cost of the project was about $25 for the DRL's and the same for the controller. Time to install about 45-60 minutes. Anyway on with the action.... Here's a picture of the Lights I chose, You should be able to use anything you like. These ones fit perfectly between the grille slots on the front of the car. Some people might like wider lights. First step is to remove the headlights, and the plastic trim panels around the edge of the engine bay. This will allow access to everything you need (Note my vehicle is RHD so you may need to work on the other side on LHD vehicles. Next remove each grille, on my car (a turbo) the grilles can just be pulled straight out. Lift the bottom of the frame a little and it'll just pop right out. Here's me figuring out where the lights will go. I then drilled some small holes, and use 8gx15mm flat head timber screws to hold the DRL's to the upper frame. With the light's I chose, they have a very large empty area, that is no problem to drill right through. When installed you can't see the screws at all. Next I passed up the wire from the DRL through the little hole that is inboard in the air duct. It's the perfect size for passing wire's through. Here's a picture of where the wire comes through. Make sure the wire is neat in the grille and that it's tucked up nicely. Next I mounted the DRL controller. This is a picture looking through the left hand headlight opening. I used a electrical tie to hold it onto the body. I left some excess wire under the headlight, so if I need to remove the grilles (for cleaning the intercoolers) I have enough wire to pull them out. Next I wires up the positive and negative. There is a little black terminal box next to the jump connections in the engine bay. There was actually a spare pole in the box that I was able to use a round-ended crimp terminal to attach to it, and then use a bolt to secure it. Conveniently next to the jump terminals, the power steering resovoir retaining bolt serves as a perfect earth. Make sure you solder all your connections, don't rely solely on crimping. Same goes for the connector to your DRL's as they'll be exposed to some water, even though they're behind the headlights. Next re-install the headlights, and plastic trims around the engine bay. Fire up the car and check out your good work! Happy and Safe driving!
  19. Yeah I'm 6'2" so it's a real struggle to get under the dash for me, even with the seat all the way back. As per my other post, I'll have to wait till the week after next to have a go at it, as I've got a road trip coming up, so I don't want any drama's while I'm miles away from civilisation. If I get it out, I'll take some pictures and add them to the support topic for your DIY. Cheers! DS
  20. Hi I ran through the "output test" feature of durametric for the A/C module. I figured out what the 4 display fields are. 1 (top) is the upper limit of the servo/device. 2 is the actual current value. 3 is the value the software is sending and 4 (the bottom) is the lower value possible for that servo/unit. I can see that for the faulty servo's the software is trying to send various values to the unit, however the unit is "stuck" on a particular value, generally around 70, which is almost half way through the range. So this now begs the question, is it normal for so many servo's to fail (there appears to be about 6), or is there a fault in the a/c controller (it appears to be working and is happy to communicate with the software and execute functions where it can. The only thing I want to fix first is my Kessy (see my other post). It's going to be a job to remove it, and next weekend I'm going on anout a 700km round trip (bit of beach driving too!), so I'm going to wait till I get back to fix that. That will at least rule that causing a problem, but my CAN bus (gateway) is not showing any errors, and communicates just fine with the software. If I get stuck where I'm going I be 350km from anyone who can help. Happy for any oppinions on the multiple servo failures.... Thanks DS
  21. I did try using the testing function of durametric, but I was unclear as to what the various numbers displayed meant. I asked durametric, and they said they couldn't tell me? and that I should refer to the Porsche procedure? I understand what you mean though, so I'll have another go at it. I have the service manual, but group 8 (HVAC) doesn't seem to cover troubleshooting, only removal and replacement. I'll work through the various servo's and see if I can fault them. I'm sure having the Kessy out of action is not helping.... Thanks again DS
  22. Thank you, I'll give it a try. It's the big wiring harness that is really stopping me, but I'll persist. Thanks again!
  23. I had this error once when I accidentally "activated" the transmission control unit when I was mucking around with some wiring installing my dension gateway. Initially I crapped myself, but the error cleared on the next restart. A durametric scan will definately help, my problem was that as the module was awake, the transmission was not and it was complaining that the transmission wasn't there. Cleared the codes and never had a problem since. But it's definately the car saying there's a problem. If you post your error someone here will be able to help. Cheers DS
  24. What surface are you driving on? If it's boggy sand I can tell you from experience that the traction control in the cayenne BLOWS CHUNKS on boggy sand. It robs power right at the point when you need it the most, ie it doesnt allow enough wheel spin/slip to be effective in sand. Unlike thue range rover etc that have a sand setting. That setting allows more wheel slip before reducing the power. It's the strangest sensation having your foot to the boards, and the engine is just idling which you slowly sink into the sand.... Cheers! DS
  25. I had a similar problem but I was getting the camshaft angle implausable error (0021 from memory). I switched to shell helix ultra 5W40 from mobil 1 5w40 and problem solved! Car runs heaps better on Helix than mobil 1. The cam timing seems to be really sensitive to oil types, a bit like mitsubishi's too. Thanks DS
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