Mijostyn

Castrol also makes a "Volkswagon spec 502" 5W 40 which Audi uses exclusively now. You can get it at any Auto Zone. I use Miller's Oil CFS 5W 40 which is a Racing spec oil. It has more ZDDP in it which is great for the engine, not so great for the cats. Frankly, all you have to do to clean the cats is run them hot for a few minutes. You can burn it right off that way. Just nail the car from about 45 MPH in 6th gear several times. Pick a nice highway early on a Sunday morning. If you get stopped just tell the trooper you are cleaning your cats (with a big polite smile)

Hi Bruce, There is a solenoid that operates the lock and it is bad. It's rest position (unpowered state) is locked which it spring loaded. When the solenoid is powered it retracts and releases. I suspect the spring is bad or the mechanism has developed enough friction that the spring is not powerful enough to over come it. As long as it always releases I would not worry about it. If it fails to release you are in trouble. By the way, when you remove the key twist the wheel back and forth and see if it catches. You may have to go as far as 45 degrees.

Hi Bruce, You have more than a gasket problem. You can replace it. Any old contact or rubber cement will do. BUT, there is a drain up there and it is plugged. No water should ever get into the car even with a bad gasket. I am not sure where the drain is and where it exits but when I have a chance I'll take a look at my car. JFP may know where it is.

Yes. Tire Rack sent me my winter set up with whatever sensors they use and they are running fine...and they have black aluminum caps on the stems. (with a little Porsche crest)

Interesting video. Thanx JFP. I wish he would learn to pronounce Porscheeee correctly. He does it just to irritate us!

The clutch lubricant is circulated to a oil/water cooler on the side of the gearbox, the controls are internal to the PDK control computer. The clutch oil pump is inside the bell housing, not unlike an traditional automatic transmission: Porsche manual vs PDK cutaway.jpg Changing the clutch oil flow requires activating a valve inside that pump, hence the use of the PIWIS to control it. Nice picture JFP. Where are the solenoids that operate the gear box and clutches?? I hope they are easy to get to as they are the most likely parts to fail. It is cool that the gear boxes are almost identicle! I wonder how it gets itself into first gear in sub zero temps? The first shift at -10 degrees is like rowing through molasses. Does it go to bed in first gear? A lot of the control system is internal to the gearbox and operated remotely by the computer, which is why a lot of independent's are kind of stuck on servicing the transmission (at this time, there is not an aftermarket system such as the Durametric that can even do the clutch oil change out, which happens with twice the frequency of the gearbox lube itself, due to the necessity of a PIWIS system). The transmission is decidedly not technician friendly, and the dealers are not going much beyond changing both oils and re-flashing the computer before swapping out the unit for a replacement when problems occur. Because the trans is basically an "automated" version of the manual 7 speed, I think the trans stays in whatever gear it was shut off in (probably to facilitate the new auto start/stop function), but there is no real way of telling as it seems to go through a series of diagnostic checks as the car starts. Here's one out of the car, and there really is not much to see: What is that Blue knob at the top rear on the driver's side? What is that black knob down low a bit to the front with the diagonal grooves with the sheet metal bracket under it?? In general how are these boxes holding up? I'm hoping that they have most of the bugs worked out by now. Any weaknesses I should know about? I assume when you send these back they send you a rebuild and give you a core charge? How much??

The clutch lubricant is circulated to a oil/water cooler on the side of the gearbox, the controls are internal to the PDK control computer. The clutch oil pump is inside the bell housing, not unlike an traditional automatic transmission: Porsche manual vs PDK cutaway.jpg Changing the clutch oil flow requires activating a valve inside that pump, hence the use of the PIWIS to control it. Nice picture JFP. Where are the solenoids that operate the gear box and clutches?? I hope they are easy to get to as they are the most likely parts to fail. It is cool that the gear boxes are almost identicle! I wonder how it gets itself into first gear in sub zero temps? The first shift at -10 degrees is like rowing through molasses. Does it go to bed in first gear?

Thanx RJN, Yes they were doing it when the cars got to the dealer. I suspect the factory has it under control now and the cars are coming good to go. We will find out in ONE MONTH!!! (double flip here)

Absolutely. Since the metal valve stems w/metal caps are the transmission antennae of the TPMS sensors, I suspect that removing the metal caps from the aftermarket sensors changed the radio frequency (RF) characteristics of the stems (antennae) so that the aftermarket sensors became more compatible with the receiving end of the business. Just my theory--as an old, 30-year retired USAF radio and radar guy. ;) Too bad we can't take them apart to figure it out. All the ones I have seen are potted in epoxy resin. My limited understanding is that these devices transmit only. There is a little accelerometer in them that turns them on when the wheel starts turning. This is how they reserve battery power and why they last so long. The ones I have were 1/2 the price of the Porsche replacements! I expected them to be crap but they are a year old and running fine. Life is good :-)

Hi Martadon. They say that metal caps are a problem and it looks like they are with some sensors. I suspect it has something to do with their antenna orientation. I always had metal caps. Last year I had to replace the sensors which I did with 1/2 price chinese ones. They work great even with the metal caps on. Go figure. It is good that everyone is warned about the problem. Changing caps is way easier then changing sensors.

Looks like a quarum.

Nothing surprising here. I think what bothers me the most is that they take these cars out of context. The Noble is cool. They could never get it into this country with out making it a kit car which means it has absolutely no value in this market just like the Caterham 7. Once you spend your money on these cars it is gone for good. Even though I think the GT-R is one of the ugliest cars I have ever seen you have to respect it. For 1/2 the money you get a very capable if unrefined car which you can actually load your wife and a weeks worth of luggage into and go places. The Turbo S is not perfect. But, it is **** close especially from the perspective of a regular guy like me. I do not race cars and could care less what they do on a track. I never race people out of stop lights. That is just plain stupid abuse of testosterone. If launch control were an option in this car I would never spend the crazy money for it. What I want is a refined car in which I can drive fast without worrying about losing it, in which I can put my wife and a weeks worth of luggage, bikes or skis on the roof and a very big smile on my face. There is no substitute.

Hey guys, PORSCHE-M97-E-I-952178-Sev3.pdf This is my most recent oil report. Notice the report also compares the most current data with the preceding test. The nickle and oxidation are not real. They are errors and by products of the test Polaris uses in combination with Millers oil. The dilution and viscosity numbers are real. Notice the dilution increasing. It is just at the point the oil needs to be replaced at 6,000 miles! No oil will make it gracefully to 10,000 mile in my car, the way I drive. Also you see the TBN ( base number) dropping. It is also now at the point the oil needs replacement! I alway replace my oil if the TBN drops below 3.

Hey Time traveler, Pull the fuse on the PCM module and see if this stops the problem. If it does your PCM is neurotic and needs to be replaced. Go aftermarket. Alpine and Kenwood are nice. Next, check the battery's build date. It is stamped on one of the terminals. You may need a magnifier to read it. If the battery is over 6 years old replace it. Even if it tests OK it may be bad and it will fail soon anyway as the average life span is 6 years. Best not to get caught with your pants down. I'm not sure about the alternator, maybe JFP would like to chime in on this??

Now take it easy Hamad. You want to break it in carefully.

I had ceramic coated FabSpeed bypass pipes on my 993 Turbo. The coating was excellent. I expect the same results on my 991 exhaust tips. They look great. How long did you run them for? I had a 993 TT but got into a tight financial situation and had to sell it :-( Boy, was that a great car. I ran the coated tips on my 993 Turbo for over a year and over 10,000 miles. I bought my Turbo for low $60's....drove it 40,000 miles, and sold it for low $90's. Hence, why I can afford a new $150K 991. LOL! :) Way to go. Hopefully, I will be able to do that with my C4S. Regular 911s do not hold their value as well as Turbos but I got into mine pretty cheep. Not sure I want to drive the Turbo year round. I though I might wait a year and get a 991 C4S with a power kit like yours to use as the daily driver. The thought of a Macan crossed my mind...........nahhh. I love driving these things to much. Got instant on ed by a cop today coming from the other direction. I saw him just as he saw me and I was on the brakes about the same time the detector went off. I was doing double the speed limit. He stuck his hand out the window pointed his index finger down then gave me the thumbs up!

I had ceramic coated FabSpeed bypass pipes on my 993 Turbo. The coating was excellent. I expect the same results on my 991 exhaust tips. They look great. How long did you run them for? I had a 993 TT but got into a tight financial situation and had to sell it :-( Boy, was that a great car.

I think there was a misscommunication here. If you take the emblems off an older car you will see the outline of the letters in the clear coat. This is etched in by acid rain. You can usually rub it right out with a mild compound such as Menzerna 2500. Porsches have a very thick clear coat. Taking the emblems off a new car is no problem at all. They come right off and there is no outline to worry about. White and I are replaceing the PORSCHE letters with identical but black ones because we both have great taste and want the car to look just ...so. That's a riot White. I am doing exactly the same thing. I got the Black letters from suncoastparts.com. I also got a "PORSCHE" windshield decal and the white LED side marker lights. But, I don't get the car until May :-( So, HOWS THE CAR?? I bet it sucks! (A LOT OF AIR THAT IS). Got it broken in yet?? (only takes about 10,000 miles). Car is G R E A T !!! I've done about 1,300 miles. Just got an oil change done yesterday. 5W40 Joe Gibbs DT40. Factory fill sample was sent to Blackstone. Should have results next week. Then another easy (below 4,200 RPM's) for another 700 miles, and then I plan to shift near redline every time out. LOL!! :) Thank you Dr. Porsche. I sent my exhaust tips out for smooth black ceramic coating. Cost was about $275 total. Works great with the white car and black PORSCHE badge. I used CCP Coatings in Detroit. Grear results. About 1 week turnaround. Curt helped me at 313-369-2447. And now I don't have to obsess about the black soot from the DFI engine!! LOL!! :) Hey White. Have you used that coating before?? Tell us how it works please. My tips are already black fortunately because a set of black ones is a rediculous $1500. I just sent off another oil sample. I'll pull out that thread and report on it. Post yours also!! We can all learn what these cars do.

Thanx RJN, As my car is about to be built it should have all the updates. The theme on my car is red and black so the stock black chrome tips will do for me. You will always be able to get the sport tips in the aftermarket but they will cost you dearly. What I really want are black LED headlight modules. They do not appear to have them yet but they will as the back lights are popular option. I will be stuck getting them in the aftermarket for huge bucks.

That's a riot White. I am doing exactly the same thing. I got the Black letters from suncoastparts.com. I also got a "PORSCHE" windshield decal and the white LED side marker lights. But, I don't get the car until May :-( So, HOWS THE CAR?? I bet it sucks! (A LOT OF AIR THAT IS). Got it broken in yet?? (only takes about 10,000 miles).

Macassar Ebony is easily obtainable. You would be better off finding a local woodworker to make them for you. Just use one of the stock ones as a pattern. They can be finished with catalyzed polyester. This will match the factory finish. You are talking about 8 hours of shop time at $80/hr plus the wood, maybe $75. This is probably less than the Porsche parts. Macasar Ebony is extremely variable. Coal black with streaks of medium tan You'd best select the wood your self to match what you have in the car.

Phil, If you want to just kill the solenoid for the time being until you can replace it, just pull the plug on the unit or pull the fuse and cut the locking pin if it does not spring into locking position correctly. if the door locks correctly there is an emergency pull in front of the Rt door which you can use when you are fueling up. It is just a wire. But in Loren's DIY it looks plastic??

Check the DVD drive's cable in the trunk. These have been known to come loose killing just the Nav function as in your case. Also remove and then replace the disc. Check it to make sure it is OK. If you park a lot in the sun over time it may self destruct. Under the label is the vapor deposited aluminum layer which has to be intact for the drive to read the disc. Make sure this is OK by holding the disc up to a light looking through it. Any defects will be obvious. If the disc is ruined you will need to replace it. Much cheaper than installing a new system.

Paul, the guage on the left is the oil temp. The water temp is to the right. The radiators are quite large. A lot of the little fins may be bent from stones and such getting kicked into the intake but this actually does not affect their performance as most of the radiator is out of the firing line. As long as the radiators are not leaking and your water temp runs around 175 F in casual driving you are fine. Just keep the intakes clean. I use a strong shop vac to suck everything out. Just top the coolant off as needed. You do not need to replace it otherwise until some work needs to be done on the system like getting a new water pump. Only if the coolant becomes contaminated with say...oil, do you need to suck it out. And, in that case, that will not be the only sucking sound you will hear as your wallet shrivels up!

James. This is most definately not normal. Modern radio/nav systems are well isolated from noise entering through the power line. It is as simple as putting a capacitor of the right size (depends on the systems impedence) across the power line. If this is bad, and caps do fail, you probably will hear all kinds of stuff such as the pump Ahsai mentions. Things are constantly turning on and off and some items are noisier than others. But, a well isolated radio should "hear" none of this. A dealers response to this would probably be trying to replace the PCM at a rediculous cost. But, I bet any good Nav/radio installer could easily put an additional filter on the power line at relatively minimal cost. They see this problem all the time. Good luck and let us know what happens!!