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nick49

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Everything posted by nick49

  1. nick49
    I backed out of the garage the other night and noticed that my clear reversing lights were not on. I doubt it's a bulb because both are out. I have checked nothing yet, anyone had experience with this? Wondering which fuse controls this and where is the reversing light switch located? Thanks for your help, Nick
  2. nick49
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one that does this. I've had my carrera for 3 years now, and like you have driven sticks since the mid '60s and I still kill it somtimes when pulling into or backing out of a parking spot. I'm uncertain what the cause is, I keep thinking that I can't hear the motor but I have a cab with PSE and still kill it with the top down. Maybe it's the non sensitive feel of the hydraulic clutch coupled with a reatively tall first gear and little torque at low RPM. ???
  3. nick49
    Install these because you want or like them, any benefit seen will most likely result in air being bleed out of the system. I have sold, constructed, installed braided ss brake lines for 30 years and found little improvement solely due to the change. Stock rubber lines are designed to last many years and very little energy is lost due to expansion. This could be the case on a car from the '70s or older but unlikely on yours.
  4. nick49
    You should pull the spark plugs and they will tell you which cylinder(s) is the problem. They should all look clean and dry with a brown to light tan coloring, any sooty, oily black or darker plug will pinpoint that is the offending cylinder. Compression rings can still be good and the oil rings bad or possibly a failed valve guide seal. Check your tail pipe as well for a sticky black residue. Normal combustion results in a dry grey to a little black but usually rather clean. With that much oil being consumed someone following you closely should be able to see your exhaust smoke under acceleration, especially at night.
  5. nick49
    "No matter what I did the duplicolor rattle can paint would stick to the rotor. " Use some old newspaper to mask it off. If the caliper is too cold or the finish too slick the paint won't bond. Make sure it is at least 65 degrees. clean the surface with lacquer thinner or a non oily degreaser, lightly sand or scuff the surface to give a foot for the new paint. Also make certain you shake, shake shake, as some canned paints have sat too long on the shelf making the driers so they don't redily mix with the pigments.
  6. nick49
    Wifes Boxster has original P-Zeros on the front and Yokohamas on the rear. Been that way for nearly 10k miles. The fronts are about due for replacement and we will go the Yokos to match the front. My wife does not drive agressive, I on the otherhand, having roadraced motorcycles, like so see what it will do. I also like to compare it on same roads and turns to my Carrera. No negative issues here, and by the way being the type that hates throwing away good rubber, I used Dunlop 9000s on the front until worn out with new P-Zeros on the back of my 996. I cannot recommend this to others as I don't have an attorney on retainer but it worked for me and I consider myself very safety conscious.
  7. nick49
    keep watching it, sounds like either a bad cap or possibly a cracked reservior. 2 L is a lot to add and is unlikely caused from an overfill expansion loss.
  8. nick49
    A cracked or slipped cylinder sleeve is more common than a head gasket. This will usually require a motor replacement.
  9. nick49
    I'm asuming the oil separater was replaced out of need. And when these go they usually make an oily mess out of the intake system, oiling up the filter, air box, intake runners and ports and it also pushes excessive oil in the combustion chamber and finds its way into the exhaust and mufflers. If this is the case you may be burning residual oil that is lingering in your intake and most likely mufflers. Under your stated 4500 rpm the velocity may not be high enough to cause any notice. I would certainly check this out. Also install a fresh set of plugs and change the engine oil if it has over 4-5k miles on it as fuel dilution that occurs in time will aggravate the situation. Top up the oil to an exact level on the dip stick cold and recheck it after about 500 miles along with the plugs. If you are in fact burning or loosing oil thru the rings, guides or guide seals or possibly internally thru a failed gasket, you will notice a loss on the dip stick level and the offending cylinder (s) will cause that spark plug to be much darker and possibly oily black. Good Luck!
  10. nick49
    Is this for a race car? I can see putting floaters on a street bike (cycle) but not on a street car. I have driven my stock '99 Cab pretty aggressive and really haven't felt a need to beef up the brakes yet. If I did I think I would try a pad with a higher coeffieient of friction first. Floaters are normally used because they lessen warping when doing repeated braking from high speeds. This is because the disc is isolated from the hat or carrier and will heat evenly rather than stay cooler near the hub. They will also self-center relative to the hub for more even braking. Un-needed for the street unless you like the look and don't mind the expense. Another point is that you may have to go with larger calipers (heavier) and rotors to get what you need and on a street car that means more unsprung weight and poorer handling.
  11. nick49
    You can buy a plastic oil filter socket wrench at most any auto parts store or Walmart if you care to shop there. It is the "J" model and is usually less than $3. I bought one and later found out that I already have one as it fits Harley-Davidsin filters as well.
  12. nick49
    Supercharging is raising the compression several points which stresses the pistons, rings, piston pins, valves, rods, upper and lower rod bearings, crankshaft, and actual cases beyond the parameters of the original design. You may not actually seize your motor, but under boost all the above mentioned components will certainly be subjected to unusually high demands causing greatly accelerated wear and associated damage from excessive heat. I have seen N/A motors destroyed from turbos and supercharger installations. Two have been on cars that I have owned in years past before I understood what actually happens. Never again for me, I'll buy a factory Turbo. PS: I own a business where I have built hundreds of high performance motors since the late '70s and have been asked several times to supercharge or turbo a N/A application. I explain that ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY will be written across their invoice in large letters and that they sign accepting these terms. I haven't had any takers yet but a shop in the neighborhood superchaged a 993 a couple of years ago and ended up in a nasty lawsuit because the customers motor blew up within a year. Customer wasn't told of the possible engine damage that could occur from over stressing the internals.
  13. nick49
    From my experience those numbers look way too high as far as psi goes. As a general rule compression should not vary more than 10% between cylinders.
  14. nick49
    I glass beaded mine and used some old grey primer and some old silver wheel paint in rattle cans that I had lying for years. Made me feel good that I could use some of the stuff that I had on hand. Looks terrific in my opinion, a Concours d' Elegance judge that carries an OEM lug color sample may disagree.
  15. nick49
    Your description sounds more like a hose, generally a plastic reservior leak is a small split that leaks only when hot and drips a small amount onto the exhaust manifold. The first indication is usually a burned coolant smell followed by a small spot on the garage floor. It my be worthwhile to get a light under the car and have a look and possibly jack up the right side. Good Luck.
  16. nick49
    Usually coolant tank leaks will be most noticeable when the coolant is hot and under pressure. The tank may not leak at all when cold. No damage will occur to surrounding parts but after your new tank is installed you can hose off the underside in your driveway. I would top the tank off with distilled water and drive to your dealer and watch the temp gauge, if it warms up a bit too much add more water if low. On the other hand if you are not comfortable with have it flatbedded. I'm just the DIY type on most everthing. (I would replace it myself)
  17. nick49

    electrical reset

    nick49 replied to afpdl's topic in 996 GT3

    I would remove spark plugs to decrease resistance of compression and see if it will crank over. Also try to turn over the motor carefully manually using a wrench on one of the accessory pulleys. If it is locked it may require disassembly. Cross your fingers and hope for the best. I have heard catistropic failures from the engine filling with fuel and an attempted start. Good luck!
  18. nick49

    electrical reset

    nick49 replied to afpdl's topic in 996 GT3

    The first thing I would do is drain out the excess oil.
  19. nick49
    About 3 years ago I checked the speedo in my wife's Boxster against my GPS and found that it was about 10% higher than actual speed. The dealer corrected it and now it is very close.
  20. nick49
    I'm not sure about cars, but with motorcycle roadracing we would look for a 10% rise in pressure between cold and hot. If we got more our starting pressure was too low, less meant we were starting too high. After this we would go by feel as to how it felt handling wise and during braking.
  21. nick49
    None of the cars I've had in the last 35+ years have had warrantys that cover expendables like tires, brakes, wipers, bulbs, shocks, etc. Another point, Porsche dealers are in business to money, lots of it, kind of like most of their customers. I learned a long time ago that if you don't want a shock when you receive a bill for services provided to ask for an estimate beforehand. The only thing that doesn't make sense is that you authorized work to be performed without regard to cost. Hopefully you won't make that mistake again. Porsche Dealers typically charge $100-$125/hr to have their techs perform simple tasks in slow motion. They can somehow drag a two hour job into five and charge accordingly. Bet you ask next time.
  22. nick49
    Do what ever is required on the 45k maintanence according to your manuals. This will assure you and the dealer if any future problems arrise that your car has been maintained properly. Make sure the independent service center documents the service as preformed.
  23. nick49
    I personally don't like it as I think it takes away from the car. A few rock chips are part of the Porsche experience and don't detract from the car overall as far as I am concerned. I don't like clear plastic covers on the lamp shades in the house either. But if someone feels a need for this, they can certainly do it.
  24. nick49
    The underside of my skid plate was caked from oil also. My car does not leak a drop but when the oil is changed the last little bit seems to dribble all over the top side of the plate and collect there. I have to physically remove it and clean the residue otherwise it will drip on the garage floor and blow back on the rear underside of the car.
  25. nick49
    That's called a backfire. They happen occasionally on most all cars, and on earlier 911s it resulted in blown up or damaged air filter housings so a fix was to put several filtered holes or a pop-off door or valve to let the explosion neutralize without damage to the air box. Most likely harmless in your situation.
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