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nick49

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Everything posted by nick49

  1. Remove the bulb and use a meter to check for voltage on the hot lead, also on the ohm setting check for a good ground on the negative lead or terminal. You could also switch bulbs to verify the bulbs are both good. If you don't have a meter, try Sears, Lowes, Home Depot or auto parts supplier. It will cost $20-$40 for a good low end unit and will pay for itself many times over.
  2. Sounds a little like MAF sensor may be faulty. If idle is irregular when engine is warm like when stopped at a light and this happens more often than not, I would bet that sensor needs replacement. Seems like cleaning is a temporary solution to a reoccuring problem, whereas replacement is more permanent. Been there!
  3. We had a windshiled replaced in the Boxster last year and the guy from the glass shop did it in our driveway. I watched the installer to be certain that he was careful and wouldn't damage any of the interior surrounding the area. It looked easy and the rubber seal/trim was reused. They remove the surrounding trim and cut thru the sealer as it is glued in with silicone. Remove the damaged glass, clean up the residual sealer and glue in the new one. Care is taken to position it correctly and evenly side to side and top to bottom. Replace trim, put on blue masking tape all around so it doesn't slide around for 24 hours and you're done.
  4. I would recommend that you have a Porsche Dealer check it out. They know the potential problem areas with this car and could advise you of any issues. I would buy a warrenty or at least check into it as a major engine problem could be up to $10k plus if you had to cover it yourself.
  5. Porsche has traditionally used horizonally opposed or boxer motors since the '40s or since inception. Originally they were air cooled and somewhat unique. They always worked well and lended themselves to high horsepower modifications and successful racing involvement. With the tail weight bias handling, Porsche developed a kind of cult like following that loved their high tech, high horsepower and good, but quirky handling type cars. The 911 types would either handle very well or very poorly, depending upon the finnesse and ability of the driver. So I would say the rear boxer motor has been retained for tradition. And I may get flammed here, but Subaru paid Porsche for manufacturing rights and made the design reliable. I say this because my '99 Carrera with 45k miles sits in the garage in need of a replacement motor due to poor quality manufacturing techniques. Your lifters are noisey because they have bleed down their oil pressure from sitting idle and will refill and pump up and become quiet during operation. My Carrera and Boxster are noisy like this too, every other car I've had over the last 30+ years have been quiet. I would say a poor lifter design, as it has nothing to do with the boxer design.
  6. What search words did you use to find engine failures? You are having better luck than I! Hopefully something minor with yours.
  7. If adding air to your tires is a 1, and overhauling the transmission is a 10, I would say installing the shifter would be a 1.05...sound about right?
  8. Inboard tire wear is from negative camber. You can correct this but your car will not handle as well especially when driving agressively. Racers often add a little more negative than what is used for street cars to aid in quicker turn in or more more stability in the turns. The hump you see is from too little air pressure, as this is the most loadbearing part of the tire footprint with your current camber setting. It would be more centralized with no negative camber. Too little air makes the tread push inward or toward the center of the wheel and creates little wear in this area, but more on either side. A side note is that recommended air pressures are a good starting point and probably a good average for a stock car. but depending upon the ambient temperature, road surface type, desired handling, speeds to be driven, suspension settings, spring rates, dampening, tire compounds, tire widths and possibly other factors, it may ideally very.
  9. Any excessive play or lash in suspension or steering components will become more apparent or magnified at speed. Tight and close tolerences as well as tire balance and correct pressure become proportionately more important as speed rises. You probably have also noticed that a little steering wheel movement makes a bigger difference when traveling faster. If you are going to travel fast, the machine should be tuned accordingly. I learned that high speed driving is either something you can either really enjoy or something that you don't like at all. I personally like it and have spent quite a bit of time at or over 150 mph mainly roadracing motorcycles over an 8 year period and racing on the Salt Flats. I cannot recommend speeding on public roads as there are too many unknowns unlike a closed coarse track.
  10. Could be the nature of the electronic throttle, E-gas, drive-by-wire. I have never noticed anything like it in my '99 Carrera or wifes '99 Boxster which are both, the much perfered IMHO, mechanical cable operated throttles.
  11. (They are very very minor and not worth painting but they bother me everytime I give my wheels a good cleaning.) Get a shrink! LOL, just kidding. Seriously I have a few pinhead sized paint chips on my hood and elsewhere on the body that I wish weren't there, but if you drive anything it's inevitable and the usually the fix or attempted repair ends up looking worse than the original blemish.
  12. You say you have done everything...but did you remove the pads a second time and recheck that everything went in exactly as it should have? If not do it and look specifically at the pad fit in calipers and caliper fit to wheel carriers. If all else fails, install original pads and see if noise goes away or get your wallet out and visit the dealer.
  13. Congratulations! If you liked the Boxster you will love the Carrera. IMO everything the Boxster does, the Carrera does better or is more enjoyable while doing it. Does that make sence? We have a 986 and 996 and I would like to hear your comments regarding both after you have a chance to become familiar with the Carrera.
  14. Read the article, thanks. It sounds like the guy studied this a bit before making his selection and wnt about it the right way to test the results. Hopefully he may do some timed runs with and without and we can the differences there. He seemed pleased overall with the results obtained and that's without a doubt the most important thing. I thought the results were pretty impressive on the dyno and although the owner didn't feel any real power increase the improvement in throttle response and driveability was certainly worth the money and effort spent. Something to realize is that with and older model car with dated electronics greater gains may behad using todays technology, also different cars, models, equipment packages, etc will respond differently to ECU changes. If I chipped a car I would want a power increase that I could definately feel. On Harley Evos I can achieve a 50% increase in RWHP, from 47 to 70 for under $1500. With a Boxster or 996 to get a gain you could feel I think you would need to change the compression ratio, cams, valve size, intake runners possibly, throttle body, and then the electronics to match the work that has been done. I have read for years that there is NO power to be had from changing exhaust headers with the stock motor. Porsche does an amazing job with the stock heads and exhaust system. Also Porsche with variable cam timing an variable intake plenum length or manifold volume it is hard to improve upon for street use as it maximizes torque and power according to demand. Older cars didn't have this. Regards, Nick
  15. I would jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels, then pry the brake pads away from the rotors to ensure they are not dragging and with the wheel or even your spare on the hub, turn it and you may be able to hear or feel if the bearing is bad. I don't know why but Porsche uses a very complex and expensive double ball bearing assembly that is sealed and must be correctly sequentially assembled in the carriers to prevent damage upon installation. They seem to fail often compared to cheap, reliable, and forgiving tapered cup and cone roller bearings that everyone else in the world has used successfully for over 50 years. If you change it yourself I think you need to pull the aluminum carrier and use a press to remove and install it. I did it a couple of years ago when I was going to put Big Red Turbo brakes on my C2, then realized it was mechanically a bad idea and in reality a down grade rather than an up grade. Good Luck
  16. I thought you may be interested...I was, so I'll relay a couple of more opinions from "Experts (?)." Anyway before work this morning I stopped by an automotive machine shop that I have used for years to do cylinder boring and valve seat refinishing. They do very good machining and do exactly as requested as far as specs relayed to them. The guys that run it are the "***** on (insert brand here)", USA V8 Gear Head Roundy Round kind of guys, that don't like foreign cars or for that matter anything foreign. I told them that I heard of a chip that will net a 10% power gain and increase torque as well and it was offered for $1000. The machinist guy wholly agreed that it was most likely totally accurate, and chips that he has experience with will give 10% or more gains and a lot of his friends have used them with terrific success. He also stated that with todays cars and all the computer controlled ignition and injection that this is the way to get more power of of these vehicles. I have disagreed with him before on various mechanical issues. His daily driver is a '57 Ford One Ton PU 4x4 and he has never been on the internet or used a computer. Not that it makes his opinion any less valid, but it could, LOL. The second opinion is from a tech at a Porsche dealership, that is also a friend of mine. His opinions pretty much mirrored my own thinking. He stated that at the previous dealership he worked at, he installed several chips on customers cars and had comparison dyno runs done either on their own or at the customers request. He said he found little or no difference on naturally aspirated cars and varying degrees of increases on turboed cars. He also has done quite a bit of race car building, prep, and racing. I'm certain that the more people you ask, the more confused you may become. Just like religion...
  17. It sounds like you're sold on the chip. I would be interested in seeing before and after dyno charts, although Dynojet runs aren't nearly as accurate or repeteable as eddy current dyno results. Better yet a few drag strip timing slips. I've found dyno charts great for bragging rights in the pub and something tangable for the money spent to obtain it. Being in the business way too long, make me a skeptic, the illusive search for horsepower is almost like religion. Different people believe differently. Is it important what works? I don't think so, as long as the customer is satisfyed and feels he has received something for his money. By no means am I saying you fit this catagory, but I see an awfully lot of people that spend thousands of dollars on modifications that do little or nothing. Seems like the fact that they HAVE it is more important than what it really does. Too many products today are built on preceived illusions in my opinion. Nothing too serious here, it's all about fun...right?
  18. I believe all cars circulate a small amount of air whenever the key or ignition is turned on even if the heater and venting is manually turned off.
  19. I would be really surprised if you got anywhere near the advertised gain in HP or Torque or really any at all. Some chips will net you an HP gain by spinning the motor faster as time is a critical factor in HP, not so in torque. Anyone who understands motors knows that usually HP gains come at the expense of loss of torque. Things that increase HP like larger valves, ports, throttle bodies, short head pipes, long duration cams, aggressive advance curves have the opposite effect on torque. Ask the mfg of the chip to refund your purchase price plus the cost of dyno time if you can't get 80% of his claimed power and torque gains and I'll bet he won't do it. Chips work on turbocharged cars because they increase boost, often to dangerous levels that the motor was not manufactured to deal with. All the chip does on a naturally aspirated motor is give you a more aggressive and possibly earlier ignition advance and a higher ceiling on your rev limit. Most people that say they can feel an increase in power are too embarassed to state otherwise. I have bolted on loud pipes that actually reduce power and the customer is happy because he associates increased noise with power/speed. This is my opinion only and it comes from building hundreds of motorcycle high performance engines, racing at the Bonneville Salt Flats, roadracing motorcycles for 8 years using my own motors, and currently building 3 high performance Harley motors, including a Buell for a friend who happens to be a Porsche mechanic at the local dealer.
  20. New rotors or pads are like brand new shoes for your feet. You need to wear them for a while before they get comfortable. Give them several miles and lots of stops, preferable light stops as not to generate too much heat too quickly. The pads have to wear in to the rotors. It's best to use new pads with new rotors as used pads even 10% worn do not usually wear evenly, but somewhat tapered or wedge shaped, and somewhat grooved. The pads have to wear in to be 100% in contact with the disc and it will take a little time, moreso with used pads rather than new. Another important consideration with worn pads and a perfectly flat new rotor, is the fact that the caliper pistons may want to cock or twist slightly in their bores as they follow an unevenly worn and beveled pad. This results in poor braking performance, accelerated wear of both pads and rotor.
  21. Where you are now, I once was. And after posting simular questions on another board a couple of years ago, I will relate was I was told. Just install them as they are without the electronics, and if you feel the need you can install them later. That's what I did and don't regret it. The exhaust has a pleasent deep tone that I can't imagine would be offensive to anyone. Drive it conservatively and the sound is pretty mellow and doesn't draw any attention. Wind it up and the sound escalates proportionately with the rpms and still not overly loud but may draw appreciative glances from onlookers. I don't think I would ever use the stock type quiet sound even if I could, so I don't think it's worth while to even hook it up. I think it was designed mainly so a manufacturer could use it and pass all noise related ordinances where applicable.
  22. A wheel bearing would have to be horribly worn, almost beyond being serviceable to exhibit those actions. You can easliy check bearings by jacking up the car and trying to rock the wheels in an axis 90 degrees to rotation. If the bearing play is that excessive you would feel it. These are ball bearings and I believe a double row that unlike the more common tapered rollers have no axial play so ANY play side to side is too much.
  23. I have a '99 996 Cab with under 50k miles and suspect a blown head gasket or worse. The car has never overheated or run more than a couple of ounces low on coolant. The other day within less than a mile of driving, engine running rough, CEL flashing, coolant dripping out exhaust and muffler to Cat connection. Called dealer and they said probably head gasket or slipped sleeve. I thought the sleeves were cast in and couldnt slip. Does anyone know for sure? Or have any ideas? I have no warrenty and am the second owner and may want to fix it myself. Or I thought about a low mileage 3.6 and am wondering if anyone knows if it would fit? What does Poesche typically charge for a remanufactured motor? Thanks for any help or related info.
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