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jhbrennan

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Everything posted by jhbrennan

  1. Car was delivered with 3.6kw charger. There was a factory option for a 7.2kw charger. Is there a part number for the 7.2kw charger? Thanks.
  2. But the PSE ON works accordingly: - better throttle response - faster gear shifting - gear shifting at a higher rpm - full pse solenoid control - the steering wheel is more responsive - more aggressive engine break (i think) etc In reading your various posts I think you might be confused (or I am) about your PSE. What you described above for "PSE ON" is not PSE but "SPORT" mode. You say you don't have PSE mufflers so I'm thinking you don't have PSE at all. One external indicator would be to look at the tail pipes - do you have dual quads with the inner pipe with a smaller diameter than the outer pipe.
  3. Good dealer...and good for you! Sounds like you have an extended warranty not a CPO though since I've not heard of separate pricing for CPO - the cost of CPO is built in to the selling price of the car and is a Porsche warranty - but it doesn't really matter since you got your problems taken care of.
  4. Shouldn't the exhaust also have some sticker or indication that it is "CARB approved"?
  5. You can go here and plug in your OEM widths and offsets and then your "new" wheels to see the impact. Spacers will move the wheel out - also if you go to a bigger tire remember that half the increase will move the tire out even further. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
  6. 7 years on your battery - wow, now that is living on borrowed time. Most batteries last 4-5 years. Yes, you can donate using a credit card. Just click on the "Continue" link that says "Don't have a PayPal account?". My first Porsche battery experience was in 1975 - just bought a 71 911T from my brother. He left the country and then the car wouldn't start. Went to the dealer and found out that there were two 6 volt batteries to be replaced - one in each front fender well. Maybe $160 ($80 each??) but in 1975 that was a lot of money to me. that's a ton of dough for batteries esp given that a brand new 996 battery 2009 costs $120. I replaced the battery in my MY99 in 2004 - so I was lucky and got 5 years. At that time I paid $69 for an Autozone battery. It is now just about 5 years later and the Autozone battery is still fine - still I expect to replace it by the end of the year. And the price is now $89. Interesting that the install is characterized as "labor intensive" - obviously Autozone isn't familiar with P-cars :)
  7. 7 years on your battery - wow, now that is living on borrowed time. Most batteries last 4-5 years. Yes, you can donate using a credit card. Just click on the "Continue" link that says "Don't have a PayPal account?". My first Porsche battery experience was in 1975 - just bought a 71 911T from my brother. He left the country and then the car wouldn't start. Went to the dealer and found out that there were two 6 volt batteries to be replaced - one in each front fender well. Maybe $160 ($80 each??) but in 1975 that was a lot of money to me.
  8. I've seen a couple of reports recently where battery looked good but really had a dead cell. New battery solved the problems. Anyway for you to really get a good test of battery?
  9. Assuming measurement was on level ground, try adding only small amounts at a time (200 to 400ml) until you get desired level on stick and on electronic gauge - don't dump in 1/2 quart all at once.
  10. Join Renntech and download the 996 owner's manual for your reference. It's an 03 but most info applies to 00.
  11. Save your money and avoid potential MAF problems. Stock air filter and airbox is OK.
  12. The current setup looks great. When I analyze wheel changes I start with the OEM widths and offsets and then use the offset calculator at www.1010tires.com to see what impact changing offsets, wheel width and tire width has compared to OEM. Then the fun begins.
  13. Pushing the lawn tractor would be easier for me than lifting the P battery in and out of the trunk every winter. Battery maintainer is the way to go.
  14. Why a "couple" of battery maintainers? Also, I think I've read that tires should be over inflated and/or maybe even put on some device that keeps them from getting flat spots.
  15. I found this information too: According to Joel Reiser, the PCA 996 guru, the 40th's suspension is not exactly the same as the M030...... I copied the following text from the PCA tech q&a site. The web address is http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...3-4DCAB3AE76AA} Question: I have read here where the "sport suspension" on the 40th Anniversary car is coded M095 versus the M030. I also know that there is a USA and ROW version of the M030 and have read the review of the shock and spring characteristics of each. What I would like to know is whether the suspension modification of the 40 year car is the effectively the same as the USA, ROW or some other suspension specification. Is the 40 year car ride height the same as USA M030, ROW M030 or something else? The car is advertized as being 10 mm lower than standard. Is that 10 mm lower in front and back? Just back? At the end of the day, would an ROW M030 conversion be an improvement in handling over what I have now? Many thanks Answer: There was no change to the front springs & shocks according to the Porsche parts diagrams for M030. The rear only had a different spring & shock specific to the M095 cars. I believe the M095 40th Anniversary cars were lowered 10mm from standard at both ends. Normally the ROW car is 10mm lower than US ride height up front, but the same ride height as US in the rear. The M095 would be 10mm lower in the rear as well, making it unique, however as yet this is not documented in the factory workshop manuals. The ROW M030 was 10mm lower than standard in the rear, but 20mm lower than standard up front. M030 US cars had the same ride height as standard US cars. The only way to know for sure on the ride height is to measure it. I would take it to whoever would be doing your lowering if you chose to go that route, and have them check it for you. I am guessing the ROW M030 suspension would probably provide 10mm more lowering up front, and a slightly firmer ride all the way around. Still not firm, just a bit less soft. Joel Reiser - PCA WebSite - 11/17/2004
  16. http://www.autosportcatalog.com/index.cfm?fa=p&pid=52
  17. No - you have it backwards. The 57mm offset will stick out further than the 65mm. Go to the website below and run your own calculations: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp You may need spacers in the front. I looked at the site I think I may have stated it poorly, my current front is 52mm the 997 is 57mm my rears are 65mm and the 997 is 58mm OK - but you still had it backwards. Assuming the same width wheel, the 997 front will be retracted 5mm (spacers would fix that) and the 997 rear will be extended 7mm (spacers would just push itout more).
  18. No - you have it backwards. The 57mm offset will stick out further than the 65mm. Go to the website below and run your own calculations: http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp You may need spacers in the front.
  19. A little more than you want to spend but it has most of what you're looking for and he appears to be a motivated seller: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=464901
  20. Bolt pattern won't change with spacers...but you will need longer lug bolts. Porsche sells a set of 4-5mm spacers with longer lug bolts. You can also check Suncoast Porsche website and FVD website.
  21. Read here - topic is "amberectomy" in the 996 forum http://forums.rennlist.com/
  22. If you get the front and rear sizes too out of whack you may burn out the AWD differential.
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