986Jim

I have seen the PIAA and they are acctually pretty good. They won't look like HID next to HID but will look better than yellow bulbs. Honestly I like having the yellow stock bulbs next to the hid. It makes the HID stand out more as you can really compare it to the HID when it's that close. I think it looks pretty cool. I always liked how the Audi A4's (Saab's etc) looked with the Hid light and halogen fogs comin down the road...

Wow, regulate the heat hahahah.. Good one. First time I have heard that before. Sounds good, except for the fact that this is not what it's for. THe cat doesn't need to be regulated, and can operate over 2500deg with no problem which it will never get too. THe monolith is platinum and ceramic. They dont melt at low temperatures of exhaust. The heat shields are only to redirect small amounts of radiated heat and are totally un-necessarry and can be removed with no problems. Brian I understand what your saying and where your coming from however, what your saying is simply not true. Either way stumpjumper, I'm glad you got it fixed. In the future if you get a performance exhaust you need not worry about heat sheilds or anything as again they are not needed so don't go out looking for a system with them because they don't exist, again for obvious reasons. I have pulled the heat shields and cats for that matter off 911 TT with 600whp that are daily driven and tracked quite often. Absolutly no problems with them ever. They even park on grass at the track between rounds while racing too. If you found the problem and decided to keep them, no problem no harm in being 100% oem, however don't keep them because you think they are doing anything for you. Regards,

Huh, just like mine. Well there goes that. I have used D2S bulbs before in retrofits and they sucked big time. But considering how well they worked in my situation it's not surprising that these worked so well for you. Something about the Porsche halogen housing really makes for a good cut off even with the power of HID.. Thats cool and good to know. I have a full OEM 4100k system sitting at my house I didn't even try, ohh well.

That’s all well and good, except for the fact that shops have been removing them or never using them at all in performance applications and never has there ever been a problem with this. As a matter of fact on many aftermarket exhaust systems there his no heat shield for the header cat or muffler. The header is the hottest part of the exhaust and a lot hotter than the cat, and it doesn't cause any problems with no heat shield. The heat shield is only on the top part of the cat as well, so it's not protecting the tire, wheel molding engine mounts or any other rubber part from the heat. Heat radiating from the exhaust components are not anywhere near the melting point of urethane or even rubber for that matter. If rubber were to touch the pipe, yes it would melt, but radiated heat through the air from exhaust will not effect these components what-so-ever. And really, have you ever seriously heard of grass catching on fire from a car parking on it? Yeah me either. So, what you do is rip off the heat shield because we know that it doesn't cause any problems and also doesn't cost any money to do. Voila, problem fixed for free.

Get under the car, rip off head shield. Proiblem solved. No you do not need the heat shields, they ave commonly removed on lots of cars (including Porsche) with aftermarket Cats and the like. There is little need for them and they always come loose and rattle in the end. Manufacturers are forced to place them there as part of some horse**** safty rule from the DOT. As if the heat from the manifolds / exhaust pipeing before the cat is less than the cat and it really needs a shield or something.

OEM HID's are ALWAYS 4300k in every car. The color difference between cars is in the housing/projector design. NO car has EVER come with anything other than 4300k from the factory, ever. With that said it may take a differently colored bulb to match upto the look of your HID's. Because halogen lights at 4300k may emit a different light than oem HID's will you may need to get the Piaa bulbs in 6000k or 8000k to match it, however you will not know until you put them in and have a look at whats up.

What I want to know is why do we care what it is? What purpose will finding out what that black piece of plastic on the engine serve? BTW your picture sucks too so it's hard to make a guess.

Air from the engine is pulled in through the intake in pulses. It's not a steady stream like one would think, the exhaust is the same way. This effect is demonstrated best on muscle cars with huge lift cams that burp at idle and you can see the exhaust puffin out the back in pulses... It will be pulled through the intake in exactly the same way from the evo vs. the stock. THe evo has a higher flowing filter, and less restrictive tube, but thats the only real difference, they are essentially the same. Once the air is inside the intake tube it will act no differently than when the stock air box was on the car. As it flows past the maf the effect will be the same. The smoother the pipe the higher the velocity entering the engine. That would happen after the maf though as the stock rippled pipe is downstream from the maf where it would cause turbulance. There is just no way that it would cause a CE light.

Except for the fact that the D2S bulb is not designed for an H7 housing, nor is the positioning of the ark on the bulb in exactly the correct spot. Retrofitting a HID bulb into a halogen housing is bad enough, but luckly for us Porsche designed a really good halogen housing where an HID bulb works out. If the light output isn't exactly as stock however you may end up with light in undesired spots. I would be curious to see the light from your headlights on a wall or something like what I did to see if they land as uniform as the stock lights do. Any other pics?

I think he is saying you could seal it without pulling it out. Problem is if this stuff is applied with wet coolant on the tank would it cure? If you had to pull it out to cover it as already stated, thats most of the work there, might as well put a new oem part in and be good for 6 years to come again...

I'm sorry but I have to say it. I just can not see how changing from a flat panel filter in a box to a round filter is going to make any difference. The rest of the car doens't know if it's the stock plastic tubing or aftermarket plastic tubing. It's just plastic tubing. THe only difference is a flat filter in a box vs. a round filter is a housing with a shield (which is a box once the top is back on the motor... Seriously, the intake is not causing the problem, something else is. It's not like your running an aftermarket intake manifold with sensors unpluged or something. It's a plastic tube with a round filter vs. a platic tube with a square filter... As long as the air entering the engine is going past the maf, the computer has no idea what the intake is made of, where it is place or how it works. You could make it from stainless steel, run it out the top of the engine like a mack truck smoke stack with a triangle filter on it and as long as the air is passing by the maf, it wont triger an CE light. Quite simply, automotive computers don't work that way. CHanging the filter and plastic tubing will not make the maf change what it is seeing. If the intake is leaking past the maf or something like that then yeah, you'll have a problem but otherwise, no not gonna happen. Not to sound/act rude, however anybody who had a CE light, pulled off the intake and it went away, had another problem that was fixed during the changing of the intake. Either there was a leak in the intake getting past the maf, the intake was installed incorrectly or something else caused it. Pastic and filter material and shape do not cause faults in electrical equipment. I have an EVO intake and got a CE light about 500miles after installing it. I pulled the maf it was really dirty, and not 500miles of driving dirty, like 6 years old dirty. I cleaned it and no problems since. No problems in rain, hot weather nothing, and my car is the same as yours.

Glad you guys got it figured out! I placed my ballasts in teh same location, however I just zip tied them to some existing wires that were running past the area so they didn't flop around. There really isn't anywhere for them to go so not much to worry about really, and seems like there is ample room for them back there so nothing gets tangled up.

I also did the Mike Focke method and it fixed my 1123 & 1125 problems perfectly. It has no beem 2 months or more and 1000km with no re-occuring light, so all is well.. You must be careful pulling out the sensor, cleaning it and re-installing it in the correct direction. You didn't put it in backwards did you? Is it pluged in? I know that sounds simple, but if you didn't plug it in all the way etc.. could cause the wierd new problems you received.

I'm sure a lot of people will come on and give all these reasons why you can't mix tires and this and that. Fact is if your driving the car on the street and you don't drive the car hard you would never even notice if I put winter tires on the front and all summers on the rear except for the noise. Mixing tires will give the car unpredicitable handling results if your pushing it. It falls under the same thing as people putting winter tires on the front of a FWD car but not the back thinking it's only for traction to get going. It will make the back end come loose a lot earlier around corners because of the increase grip in the front vs. back but if you drive like a granny it will never happen anyway. Same thing with you. If your pushing the car hard into corners and have no grip at the front and high grip at the rear guess what happens? You will need to be into the corner pretty well though for this to happen. If you're driving normally then it's not really that much of a factor to you. Let the flaming begin.

If porsche changed the master cylinder then either they left air in it,or the fluid is not high enough rating anymore. Something is changing from when the car is cold to hot if they work awesome cold and suck hot. Generally it's either air in the system or the brake fluid is not a high enough rating. If your using DOT 3 then switch to non silicone DOT 5 and give that a whirl, it has a much higher boiling temp and won't let the brakes go soft. Also what pads are you running on the car? Try changing them out for something with a more temperature resistant compound. It's not the bearings however, if anything when they get really worn they would help stop the car with all the friction but would not effect the feel of the pedal

Or you have the re-circ turned on which will make it fog up.

NO because I know guys who work there. They may for you though, prob the same as pulling your ce light. Honestly its worth it even if you pay, knowing the temp is a nice touch really. I look at it all the time.

My car does not have the OBC either, but the dealer turned on the outside temperature display for me which was all that I was really interested in. Once its turned on you get it all the time.

I thought it was two speakers in the dash one in the door and the shelf speakers behind you. So four on each side x 2. The shelf speakers behind your head acctually have two per side tho, so not sure how they come up with 8. My car technically has 10 speakers in it. Two in the dash (tweeter and main) door mid woofer and two behind my head on the shelf so 5 per side...

I'm pretty sure canadian tire sell thats bulb in a green package. just buy some silver paint and lightly paint the head of the bulb it will look silver and still show orange, no problems there.

Cool thanks for that. I'm going to be doing much of this stuff myself shortly. Do you have a factory service manual to help you out or did you just use common sense? I have worked on a lot of cars before (see my list) so there is no problem with tools or know how but I do sometimes like a book before I get my hands dirty. Nice to know what tools you will need etc like you found out with your 4 unplanned trips.

My 99 5spd does jump up at start then settle down as you described. I don't know how the tip works when it starts up but should be the same from that standpoint. I would wager to guess something is off. Generally when there are problems like that it's because the computer is getting a funny reading from something like the IAT (intake air temperature) or MAF (Mass air flow) sensor which is combined on our cars. There are other reasons for variation thats just an example... I'm sure somebody here has experienced this before and can chime in with some possibilities? Loren???

When your drivin hard the MPG goes into the toilet. My Talon get 1.5 GPM (yeah gallons per mile) when I'm drag racing runnin 120octane (VP C16, $8.50/gal) but will pull 25-30mpg when driving normally on the highway. If your beatin it up the MPG goes down. THe 20/26 they advertise is driving as slowly and lightly as possible in the best environment etc... You can achieve that but not having any fun.

Bingo.. The dash lights stay on for quite a while. If you lock the door, they go off. If you leave the car it should time out in 10 minutes or so, mine takes quite a while. Why are you so concerned about the display on the dash staying on for a while? It's LED it could stay on for a week and not kill the battery.

Hardly... Porsches approved oils list is over 5 pages long. It is merely a list of oils and specific weights of oils and they have tested and approved. Porsche updated their list about once a year via TSB. Sorry, some times I forget that sarcasim is lost over the internet...