Chuck Jones

yes, your assessment of the honking might be right....my first guess would be diverter valves. Your choices for the most popular replacements are Bailey, Forge, EVOM, and I may have left someone out. Everyone has their own favorites. I went with the EVO's because I got a good deal on them....most of the better replacement OEM types can be taken apart, cleaned, and lubed up for periodic service.

Go over to Rennlist and do a search...not too long ago there was a guy with a cabriolet who asked for the very same info..and there were some pictures posted. No sense reinventing the wheel. Good hunting....Chuck

UBER: I don't want to crap on this gentleman's efforts to sell his extinguisher....but it doesn't indicate if it's Halon or Haletron....also, this is a racing application....looks to be a five pound size which holds alot more fire suppressant, but it's a PIA if you have a passenger. In all honesty, the more suppressant you have the better, but because I routinely carry passengers, I opted for the smaller and more easily stored size. I use the 2.5 pound size that comes in the chrome or stainless steel container along with the "quick release mounts"....just becasue it looks "spiffier" in the car....has nothing to do with the efficiency. IN my red 930, I have a red one kuz it fits in with the color combo, but in the blue TT, I bought the chrome. You really should look into the quick release....nothing worse than fighting with a clasp when your car is on fire. Hope this helps....again....if you go do a Google search on Safecraft...you'll see all the different sizes and types of Halon containers.....not cheap....but how much did you spend on your car??? I cheaped out on my 996 and bought all sorts of expensive mods, then stood on the curb watching it burn because I was too cheap to buy a $250 extinguisher....where's the logic in that?

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but some of the insurance companies that insure classics or high end cars, especially when going for declared value.....will ask if you belong to PCA or any other organizations. I guess it give them some degree of insight into your mindset and perhaps a reflection upon how you'd take care of a car.....this is just speculation on my part....but I have been asked if I belong to PCA.

Since my 99 C2 caught fire and burned...I have fire extinguishers in all the cars. I found the best built and most professional looking fire extinguishers and mounts at Safecraft in the San Francisco area. Do a Google search for Safecraft extinguishers and you'll get their website. I bought the Brey Kraus extinguisher mount for both the 930 and the TT and they're made to fit exactly in existing bolt holes under the seats...so you don't have to drill anything. The extinguishers themselves are HALON....not the Haletron. There's a difference....that being the Haletron is more environmentally friendly, but I use the Halon becasue even the FAA sees fit to require Halon in aircraft...not Haletron. That means that Halon is much more efficient...especially at 20,000 feet where you have to get a fire out QUICKLY.

".........I am not a Latin scholar, but it seems to me that CAVEAT EMPTOR ("Let the buyer beware") refers to the fitness of use of the product purchased and not so much the fact that you may have overpaid..." Thank God I didn't misspell something.....did I leave out a coma....or perhaps end with a preposition?

Zman: I was wondering why it took 25 minutes to clean the MAF....two torx screws and it's out....a quick spray with CRC....wave it around in the air a bit to dry it off since it evaporates almost instantly.....then put it back in. I usually spend about a max of 5-10 minutes. Im NOT knocking your methodology....it just makes it sound a bit more complex than it really is. Oh and for you folks wondering about the CRC "MAF cleaner"....it's just a newly designed label that is stuck on the same can that used to be labelled simply CRC....great job of psychological marketing by some junior partner who''s now a VP of marketing.

I think that sometimes us Porsche guys try to over=do a project by getting every last speck of dirt or debris removed. Cleaning the throttle body can be accomplished by simply spraying carburator cleaner on a cloth and holding the butterfly valve open so that you can wipe the accumulated carbon and grime that collects at the bottom of the butterfly valve and down the throat a bit. One thing I would like to caution you on however....this comes from personal experience. If you opt to spray the throttle body with CRC or any carburator cleaner....TAKE OFF THE THIN RED TUBE that you stick in the nozzle of the spray can. I had an incident where the thin red tube became detached and was propelled down the "T" fitting of the plenum like it was shot out of a gun. That meant that I had to take everything apart to try to find the **** thing. Luckily....and I say luckily....it had lodged crosswise at the very last part of the plenum before it dropped down into the intake....otherwise I would have been taking a lot more parts off there. The best methodology explained to me and it makes sense....is to not get so anal about trying to clean every last speck of carbon or grime off....spray a clean rag with the carburator cleaner, hold open the butterfly valve, and wipe out as far down as you can get wiping the upper and lower part of the circular intake. Most of the trouble comes from the blocking of the slight opening in the bottom of the valve by grime at the bottom of the intake as cocks open slightly to admit air.....a small amount of grime there can affect the sensors and cause rough idle.

If they just tip over then they either aren't right for that particular car....or who knows. You sound like you've fiddled around with cars before, so it's not like you don't know how to install one....and I certainly don't want to insult your intelligence. They're rather easy to install so if they're tipping over, they may be too short to reach under the center console far enough to secure them....

Your statement "they move around"....makes me wonder.....are you of the impression that they'll be rigid? If so, your expectations are incorrect. They do not remain in there absolutely ridig....they do move around a bit and can be taken in and out in about 5 seconds.....I guess that's why Kim put in that nail head to help anchor the bottom and keep it a bit more rigid by having the point poke into the carpet. You can inadvertantly kick them or push them over if they're too far back and you move the seat forward with the electric seat control. The guys/gals who are "purists" and claim that no Porsche should have a cup holder actually like them becasue you can remove them in a flash if someone comes up and you don't want them to know you have a ....OMG...a......a.......(cupholder)!!

Good...you have an opinion from someone who appears qualified...nothing worse than a jailhouse lawyer.

Yes as iornman said...you have to bend the upper curved part...sometimes increase, sometimes decrease the curve of the bend to get it to slide under the plastic or metal union between the carpeting and the center console. Then you push it down into the carpeting on the floor to hold it in place. I've had the large traveller's coffee cups in there (slit in the side to allows for the handle), soft drink containers, various sized water bottles etc. You can bend open or close the diameter of the holder to fit just about any container. They all fit and short of a major front end impact, they stay put. I always put mine on the passenger's side. I only wish I had invented this product.

Now you're cookin' like a regular guy. A beer always seems to settle things down....we banter about here....but none of us have any malice...or if we do, there's usually a mid-course correction. We may joke around a bit and gig each other...but Loren (Site Admin) keeps a pretty close tab on things that might look like they're getting out of hand. He has a steadfast policy here....No cyber-lynchings allowed. Good to have you aboard Captn'. I'm having a Negra Modelo....dark beer. chuck

Before you run off an get one....you might just want to call them and ask them under what circumstances they would like to nullify the deal. You have a contract...signed, sealed, and delivered.....you might advise them that you'd like to settle this deal without an attorney by simply having them honor the contract....OR...you can go get an attorney and hold them liable for the attorney's fees. Undoubtedly they have legal staff on retainer....and will be in touch with him/her. You might save yourself a little money in attorney's fees if you simply quote the basic tenant of the Commercial Code and ask them how they intend to void an existing contract. YOu may well find that they call King's X and pat you on the back and say "Sorry for the misunderstanding". I always try to work out things with the folks first before taking it to the next level. You might be surprised at how things can be worked out at a lower level before elevating it to the next step. If they start threatening or flat out refuse...make sure you don't make any statements contrary to your interests....just ask why they are refusing to honor the contract....then if they look like they're goiing to give you a bad time, have an attorney review your contract and write them a letter....the cheapest way out of this without getting too messy or involved.

Please Sir....pray tell....is there a reason you opt to shift clutchless? We mean no harm and certainly harbor no nefarious intent...and certainly have no desire to raisie your ire...simply a harmless question about why you would want to do so. If it's like Sir Edmond Hillary's explanation of why he wanted to climb Mt. Everest....."Because it's there"....then we can appreciate and understand your position. You certainly don't need nor have you asked for our permission to shift without a clutch....and I'm sorry you have taken offense to the responses. One of my favorite quotes from the old Perry Mason series was....."I withdraw the question". I need a beer.

If you have the car...possession is nine points of the law....if you don't have it....then there's a definite reason they want it back and like TEXAS said...most likely you got one hell of a deal and someone hollered HOLY $HIT....look what you just sold the guy....go get it back you idiot!. Just like going into a supermarket and finding a $50 bottle of wine posted for $10....that was the advertised deal, and they sell it to you for that. It's really going to depend on what stage you are in the sale process, and any language that might be in the contract. The Uniform Commercial Code has a basic rule for what constitutes a sale, or maybe more correctly, an "enforceable sale".....there has to be an offer....acceptance of that offer....and something of value exchanged. If you satisfied those criteria, you probably are on pretty good grounds to push your side of the deal. I'm do not have training in civil or contract law...I'm a retired cop....but if you made a deal and put money down on the car and they accepted the money...I think you'd "have legal standing" to insist on delivery of the vehicle as agreed in the contract. Bottom line....I'm not an attorney....and the laws for different states vary....but there is a basic protocol for a sale as I indicated above. Best of luck....hopefully this is a hell of a deal and not a car that they forgot to take the 10 kilos of cocaine out from inside of the rocker panels. :) (Please note disclaimer....IM ONLY KIDDING)

Nice "bone"

I don't know if you're the only knucklehead who does it....but I would imageine that you're certainly part of a small and limited circle of knuckleheads. I used to "speed shift" my old 68 BMW 2002...and as long as you didn't grind the gears, it didn't seem to affect anything....I never had a problem with the clutch back then, but I was 21 and liked living on the edge, and liked showing off a bit too.....I'm a lot older now and really don't think I'd screw around with that procedure in a $100K Porsche. I don't know what that would do to the syncro gears especially on downshifting. I know that you can master the procedure by timing the shift, engine load, and rpm's just right.....but ???? Out of curiosity....why do you choose to speed shift like that? They put a clutch in these things for a reason....

Really...when you think of it and even when you include the cost for your out-of-pocket plus the cost of the warranty...add in the unlimited mileage two year warranty from Porsche....and you have a pretty anxiety free car for the next two years for the $7K outlay. PLUS...the Porsche reman engines have all the latest updates. Should you choose to sell it....the fact you have a remanufactured engine from Porsche with a warranty would be a big plus for the folks who are spooked by the stories about intermix, cracked blocks etc. Drive and enjoy.....

I see you're in Las Vegas....Unless you get some really cold temperature extremes, you can just add a bit of distilled water when it gets a bit low. I know that here in calif, (at or near sea level) we don't have the real cold temp extremes so I just normally add a bit of distilled water if it get a little low. You shouldn't be losing coolant unless you're tracking it or driving it really hard and heating it up...or you have a leaking hose or clamp somewhere. Porsche advertises that the coolant is "lifetime"....but I don't like that approach and use a 30K changeout schedule.

"Quietly" replaced? That's sort of suggestive of a covert operation. Was there something that was not quite right with the original?

WRAITH: I have to add my voice to those who disagree with you. I don't know what you were expecting...maybe a billett tooled-to-fit piece that tied in with the interior somehow....but the Ultimate Cup Holder has a LONG line of satisfied customers from the Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari and other sports car afficianados. It's made to slip in there as a add-on piece that's pretty well GENERIC to fit into any vehicle. I have to say that you are one of the first people I've heard from who has bashed the product. I guess I just don't understand what your expectations were....but I've had them in my 996, my 930, and my TT...and they've always worked as advertised. Chuck Oh and WROSS...nice pics of the interior....arent you the one who's constantly posting "no mods...all stock"?? :) :)

Well shut my mouth!! I would imagine that the reverse polarity feature didn't work as advertised....but insofar as you going after the company....it would really depend upon the company....is this some product made in China and labelled for some US manufacturer? What does the warranty that came with the chager say? I can tell you that they'll be squirming when you tell them that their product caused a $2300 failure. If it's labelled with a reputable US manufacturer, you may be able to initiate a claim....but your weak spot is going to be the fact you left it on there for so long. Maybe a slight omission of that part of the story might be in order? It's worth a try anyway....but they'll probably contact the dealership and get the story. I would also imagine that there's some sort of language in the instructions that say that the reverse polarity light comes on and you have to correct the polarity before proceeding further.....but again....what do the instructions say? I have to admit...I always figured that the charger would shut down if polarity was reversed.....but then again...you left it on there for an extended period.... best of luck to you in your efforts.

Boy...that's a new one on me....I had no idea they put a smaller tank in the Euro model. I guess it's becasue you spend $10 a gallon over there and it's less of a financial shock to fill up your car.....Porsche psychological marketing....makes you think it's not so bad to fill it up.

Where are you located? EPL is coming to Freemont California in August to put on a local show and tell...might be a good time to stop by if you're geographically located in the area and just check it out. There are a number of excellent tuners with established reputations who can tune your car. It helps to put your location in your signature so we know where you are. Also...if you have the Turbo S...you probably have some warranty left. Some of the dealerships are anal about flashing and will void your warranty if they can even remotely tie the failed part to the flash. Others are a bit more lenient, but there have been a number of guys who have been told...Sorry bout' that...you voided the warranty. I'm waiting till August kuz I have the remaining part of my CPO that runs out then...and I intend to visit Tony at EPL in Freemont.