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roadsterdoc

Rear spoiler instructions for bleeding hydraulics

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I see a lot of rear 996TT deck lids without the movable wing for sale on ebay. Do you suppose folks are buying them, removing the working rams and pump and putting the "shell" back up on ebay??

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Just checking back here to let everyone know that I have had no issues with the spoiler since rebuilt with cabriolet hydraulics in Fl. One year down and very pleased with the service!!!!

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Thanks a lot for the update!!! Great to know you got no issue :thumbup:

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Mine is foaming at the circlip and the protective cap is or was wet, so I know it leaked out. Will attempt the refill procedure in a couple weeks.

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Removed non functional spoiler system. Motor not turning using a battery charger. Pried out brush end assembly from motor, found one brush had seized up with a black tar like material. Pried out the brush cleaned off the hard reside, and got the brush sliding in and out of its holder again. Motor then spun. Next filled pump reservoirs to overflow, pistons retracted, with PS stop leak, same with rams. After a few cycles along with topping up, rams seemed to function fine. Installed on car and it works as designed. No telling how long it has been broken, as I bought the car this way. Take care with the microswitches. I had one pop off then pop apart. Was like fine surgery to get it back together, very delicate.

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  1. This process for bleeding works well.
  2. I'll add that its good to flush each side of the pump by submerging the open hose ends in a cup of fluid and then cycling the pump back and forth.
  3. When its set up right and synchronized, it won't leak. Tke a cylinder all apart and you'll see there aren't any seal..........its all gravity.

Also, I had repeated spoiler warning lights and thought it was bleeding.......but it turned out to be the upper limit switch. Easily replaced, although it was $43 from Sunset.

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Update, fluid all over ground from the right ram, spoiler extends half way on that side now, so I know the seals are shot. Need to finish the motorized ram project I've started. It will be lower cost than replacing the silly hydraulic system, and remain fully functional.

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Each spoiler lift actuator has a spring inside to retract the spoiler. You can simply lift it up manually by overcoming the spring force. Two people is probably better. Get it up a few inches and stick a couple of rolled up towels underneath or it will just go back down. The special tool is a pin spanner and it's inserted into each lift actuator just under the wing, and turned about 90 degrees or so to disengage the wing on each side. Thus you do have to get the wing up to get it off, but you only need to raise the wing an inch or two.

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BTW, I faked the special tool by making my own from a similar spanner. But you don't want to fight it for fear of scratching the paint or pistons. I'd suggest you buy the tool.

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On 7/21/2006 at 5:23 AM, roadsterdoc said:

Hello,

I am planning to replace a leaky rear spoiler ram. I understand the bleeding process for this takes some effort. Can someone post the tech instructions?

Thanks!

Chris

 

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On 3/2/2009 at 1:08 PM, gez said:

Well, it sounds like you have nothing to lose by checking to spost-1-1178510134_thumb.png.9d3014d89db3396bc48321fd0aac07cb.pngee if there is fluid in there [maybe all the recent removals has done something?] .I'd start by check the rams. Also, a new pump must be much cheaper than a fixed wing!!!!

 

 

 

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