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I got the kit from Gert this week, and I plan on tackling this on Friday. I've got Loren's DIY page and photos all printed out and ready to go. No one ever mistakes me for a pro mechanic, but this looks like a job I can manage. But has anyone got any last minutes words of wisdom? Anything I need to be extra careful about?

thanks

Keith

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Make sure the car is cool and you have plenty of time to do the work. Just take it slow and make sure you are doing the obvious correctly. If a hose doesn't seem to fit make sure you have the right one as they are very different for each side. Make sure you preassemble the 3rd radiator per the instructions -- the tabs to the top and the radiator sits at a slight angle up. Expect to spill some coolant. If this is your first time expect 4-6 hours. It is not terribly difficult it just takes some time. :D

22.jpg

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Make sure you preassemble the 3rd radiator per the instructions -- the tabs to the top and the radiator sits at a slight angle up. Expect to spill some coolant.

Kind of OT, but what do you do with old coolant if you are going to change it, can it go down the drain??

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Us cheap Boxster owners send our fluids to Texas to be recycled. :D In San Jose we recycle and have carts for paper, metal, and so on. We get plastic jugs for used oil that we leave on the curb for garbage day, but not for coolant or brake fluid, but there are places you can take that stuff to. In San Jose the sewage treatment plant does not like chemicals in your drain water.

Speaking of coolant, when it comes time to replace my 1997 Boxster lifetime coolant this is what I will use. Babblers

This is a picture I took at my local Porsche/Audi dealership.

tech_session_4_12_045.sized.jpg

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I would have to say this... read Loren's tutorial all the way through and religiously. I had to redo the install not once, twice, but thrice because I didn't install and remove the proper hoses! :cursing:

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I have noticed that my car still runs hot even though I added two bottles of redline water wetter and dropped the concentration to about 50%. I think that my cooling system needs to be flushed or something and am debating doing this soon. Any thoughts? My car at rest will sit at the middle zero. It never sits at 180 no matter what temp. It is better than before but I still think that it is not 100%. Are there any flushing cleaners that are aluminium friendly that anyone has used? I have flushed other cars before but they were cast iron blocks etc, so it was not a big deal. What does Porsche use? I also read another post about this which said that the techs, when they do this, use a special tool and disconnect some other hoses to help bleed it. It is possible it is still not properly bled, I did however drive it around with the bleeder valve open for about a week, but still no difference. Thanks. :unsure:

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Ah you had to rub it in didn't you? The first install hoses were on wrong sides. Second install proper sides. Third install Hey, I figured out that I had swapped the wrong hose on the drivers side! Doh!

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OK, let me make sure I've got this right.

On the passenger side the LOWER radiator hose is replaced with the simpler of the two new hoses, and on the driver side the UPPER hose is replaced with the more complex new hose. Correct?

And is it OK to drive with the bleeder valve open?

thanks

Keith

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SPR -

If your temperature needle is slightly over 180 then that is normal operating temp (usually the needle is straight up). The 3rd radiator will not affect normal temps. Where it comes into play is when the outside temp is high (say 90 plus degrees) and you are driving hard (like a DE or a spirited drive). Instead of temps well over 220 you should be running 180 or 190.

Porsche's recommended flush procedure requires removing some hoses and clamps to completely drain the system. After reattaching they use a special tool to fill and pressurize the system to remove trapped air (much like a power brake bleeder).

Nevada996 -

Yes the hose with the longer small hose goes on the drivers side top.

(upper hose drivers side - old hose left new hose right)

20.jpg

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Cool. Well at rest or during nromal driving it does seem to run hotter than normal, and I do think it is indicative of a flush needed and or residual air that I am unable to get out. I will run it by the dealer along with a few other things when my clutch and flywheel go in. :)

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And is it OK to drive with the bleeder valve open?

Yes, it is okay to keep the bleeder valve open when driving, esp. when on the track. The Cup cars keep the valve open all the time.

Karl

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