Low Speed Radiator Fan Ballast Resistor Is Kaput

[smackboy1]

The front driver's side radiator fan won't come on low speed. After checking fuses and swapping relays I found that the fan will come on high speed, but not low speed. Ergo, from reading other posts, I believe the ballast resistor on that side is kaput. After looking behind the wheel well cover it looks like the wires disappear into the fan somewhere so I'm thinking a repair option might be the old one out and solder a new one in rather than try to unplug it from the back of the fan.

Questions:

- Is this the correct way to fix this? How hard is it? I'm not exactly a whiz with a soldering iron but it looks pretty straight forward. Does anyone have the part #? I just got quoted $137 from dealer parts. Anybody have any installation tips?

- How important is the low speed fan on the driver's side if the passenger side low speed fan is working? The high speed fans for both sides seems to work. Do I even need to fix this?

[perryinva]

The front driver's side radiator fan won't come on low speed. After checking fuses and swapping relays I found that the fan will come on high speed, but not low speed. Ergo, from reading other posts, I believe the ballast resistor on that side is kaput. After looking behind the wheel well cover it looks like the wires disappear into the fan somewhere so I'm thinking a repair option might be the old one out and solder a new one in rather than try to unplug it from the back of the fan.

Questions:

- Is this the correct way to fix this? How hard is it? I'm not exactly a whiz with a soldering iron but it looks pretty straight forward. Does anyone have the part #? I just got quoted $137 from dealer parts. Anybody have any installation tips?

- How important is the low speed fan on the driver's side if the passenger side low speed fan is working? The high speed fans for both sides seems to work. Do I even need to fix this?

Read down about 22 posts. It's called the series resistor. I just did it. Good hints below. $58.24 +S&H from Sunset. 99661610100 I bought it with some other parts so I don't know what the S&H would be, for just it, plus your location makes a big difference. Do a search.

Edited May 13, 2008 by perryinva

[pomocanthus]

The front driver's side radiator fan won't come on low speed. After checking fuses and swapping relays I found that the fan will come on high speed, but not low speed. Ergo, from reading other posts, I believe the ballast resistor on that side is kaput. After looking behind the wheel well cover it looks like the wires disappear into the fan somewhere so I'm thinking a repair option might be the old one out and solder a new one in rather than try to unplug it from the back of the fan.

Questions:

- Is this the correct way to fix this? How hard is it? I'm not exactly a whiz with a soldering iron but it looks pretty straight forward. Does anyone have the part #? I just got quoted $137 from dealer parts. Anybody have any installation tips?

- How important is the low speed fan on the driver's side if the passenger side low speed fan is working? The high speed fans for both sides seems to work. Do I even need to fix this?

Fairly important. When mine went out, my coolant temp was consistently above 180 and several trip in bumper to bumper traffic resulted in leaking coolant. At the time I didn't realize that I could have turned on the AC and get the fans running at high speed. You run the risk of busting your coolant reservoir if you keep overheating and that replacement is a pain.

I used crimp splices instead of soldering and they seem to be holding up just fine. I ended up removing the front bumper cover to get better access. The rnew esistor will come with a connector and as I recall, two of the wires on the existing (failed) resistor on the car had the same color so I didn't know which to splice. With the bumper cover removed, you can disconnect the connector and end up only splicing one wire to the fan (I think).

Removing the bumper cover is fairly easy and you get a chance to clean your radiators as well. Trust me they need cleaning, oh and don't use high pressure water.

Good luck,

Hung

[smackboy1]

Fairly important. When mine went out, my coolant temp was consistently above 180 and several trip in bumper to bumper traffic resulted in leaking coolant. At the time I didn't realize that I could have turned on the AC and get the fans running at high speed. You run the risk of busting your coolant reservoir if you keep overheating and that replacement is a pain.

The series resistor has been out for 2 years. I asked my dealer about the fan being out and they told me it was normal and they could find no fault :rolleyes: My coolant overflow tank blew last year. Luckily it was covered under warranty.

Looks like it's time to call Sunset and buy a soldering iron.

[greerj1]

I Just replaced one and resoldered the connection. The connection is also mechanically crimped and then soldered. The metal clip is soft and can be uncrimped with a small screw driver and heat from the soldering iron. Be careful not to deform the clip to much, you will have to recrimp and resolder. It was an easy job. Don't for get to "tin" the tip of the soldering iron first. (heat the tip up, melt some solder on and wipe off with a wet sponge). I bough an extra from from Sunset and keep it for the eventual failure of the reight side. This will also be a good time to clean your radiators as well.

Good luck

J. Greer

[silver arrow]

Seems like the L one always blows first. Just an observation.

[perryinva]

Anyone ever hear if the replacements are as prone to failure? I haven't seen any.