Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

SC Oil Pressure


RG Najarian

Recommended Posts

Hello Gang,

I've got a 1983 SC Cab with 138,000 miles with the usual SC issues, oil leaks and oil burning (maybe 1.5-2 quarts per 1000 miles)

My question is regarding the oil pressure.

At Cold with thicker oil the revved Pressure is 5 or near 5, Idle is around 3.

When Warm the pressure is 3-4 revved and the idle pressure is 0-1.

Occasionally the needle will jump erratically. For instance at a constant rpm the oil pressure will be at 4 then jump spaztically to 5 then 4 to 5 then settle down at 4 again.

Some posts I've read says this is status quo for these vehicles. What are your thoughts about that? AND what is a good way to manually/externally check the oil pressure?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Gang,

I've got a 1983 SC Cab with 138,000 miles with the usual SC issues, oil leaks and oil burning (maybe 1.5-2 quarts per 1000 miles)

My question is regarding the oil pressure.

At Cold with thicker oil the revved Pressure is 5 or near 5, Idle is around 3.

When Warm the pressure is 3-4 revved and the idle pressure is 0-1.

Occasionally the needle will jump erratically. For instance at a constant rpm the oil pressure will be at 4 then jump spaztically to 5 then 4 to 5 then settle down at 4 again.

Some posts I've read says this is status quo for these vehicles. What are your thoughts about that? AND what is a good way to manually/externally check the oil pressure?

Thanks

I think there is a tool that goes on the oil filler for testing oil pressure, but not sure.

Does the problem happen when the engine is hot and you're going around a corner? If so, there is a traditional problems with older oil pumps that do not have a screen-like part on the pick up tube. on hot runs the intake on the older style pumps can be above the oil level in the sump. If that happens the car with either just stop or the oil pressure gauge will jump around.

If your just idling, hot or cold, I'd bet the problem is in the pump itself. shouldn't be as they are really realiable as far as I know. I replaced mine "just because" we were into the engine box anyway. It's been sitting on a bookshelf in my office for years, and very very few people have any idea that it's a Porsche engine heart.

Problem is that if your problem is the pump, you gotta take the engine apart completely to get to it, even taking the case apart, as far as I know. Loren would be the expert on this one I bet.... good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Gang,

I've got a 1983 SC Cab with 138,000 miles with the usual SC issues, oil leaks and oil burning (maybe 1.5-2 quarts per 1000 miles)

My question is regarding the oil pressure.

At Cold with thicker oil the revved Pressure is 5 or near 5, Idle is around 3.

When Warm the pressure is 3-4 revved and the idle pressure is 0-1.

Occasionally the needle will jump erratically. For instance at a constant rpm the oil pressure will be at 4 then jump spaztically to 5 then 4 to 5 then settle down at 4 again.

Some posts I've read says this is status quo for these vehicles. What are your thoughts about that? AND what is a good way to manually/externally check the oil pressure?

Thanks

ps: what oil are you using? maybe you need to use a different viscosity...?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm Using Pennzoil 10/40.

The pressures indicated are for straight line (no cornering).

Admittedly I usually keep the oil level on the slightly lower end of the dip stick. I've added a quarter quart and the numbers have improved.

I've already bought the sender. Hopefully I'll be swapping it out soon.

Thanks for the input

Edited by RG Najarian
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm Using Pennzoil 10/40.

The pressures indicated are for straight line (no cornering).

Admittedly I usually keep the oil level on the slightly lower end of the dip stick. I've added a quarter quart and the numbers have improved.

I've already bought the sender. Hopefully I'll be swapping it out soon.

Thanks for the input

yes. good thought re sender replacement. hopefully a relative cheap fix, and sounds like that could really be the problem. the key was the straight line rpm. I'd go to 20-50 for the SC. good luck. let us know if the sender swap is the solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My '84 911 oil pressure gauge needle jumped around a lot or was rock steady. Turned out to be the wire going to the sender. It looked fine, but, on close inspection, there was only one wire strand connected between the wire and the connector. The rest had corroded inder the insulation. Re-solder foxed it right up. Note: there is almost no extra wire, so if you have to do this, be sure to remove the absolute minum amount of wire.

Good Luck, Skip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.