Amplifier is busted.....

[The Hoth]

Hi all,

My radio has been acting up for a while(switching on and off by itself). I sort of ignored it cus I could tab the amplifier a few times to bring it back to life.

It became so bad, it kept switching on and off even I locked the car.

Well, the result was it drained the battery and my car was dead.

Battery has to be replaced by a new one. It has been over five years, so it is about time anyway.

The parts and labor for replacing the amp is $850! Well, thanks but no thanks.

I asked them to pull the fuse for the radio and amp before they install the new battery.

Just curious, where exactly is the fuse?

If I decide to install the amp myself, what special tools I need? Do I need the radio code?If so, where can I get the code?

Thanks!

[juniinc]

factory sound system is worthless, not even a joke to me.

it is about time to replace it with an aftermarket amp?

Edited August 29, 2008 by juniinc

[The Hoth]

factory sound system is worthless, not even a joke to me.

it is a good time to replace it with an aftermarket amp.

I got the Bose upgrade, so it is not that bad, but $850? Come on.

Can I just replace the amp? Would the HU and speakers work with the new aftermarket amp?

[juniinc]

not really, bose fiber optic is almost impossible to interlink together.

I'm sure that U will be able to find a used amp then plug& play.

Or my local electronic shop repaired 1 of my old HAES amp too,,,

[The Hoth]

not really, bose fiber optic is almost impossible to interlink together.

I'm sure that U will be able to find a used amp then plug& play.

Or my local electronic shop repaired 1 of my old HAES amp too,,,

Thanks! Where did you find the theft-protection code? I suspect everytime you disconnect the radio or the amp, you will need to enter some sort of anti-theft code to reactivate the radio.

[juniinc]

often times it's written on the front hood label or manual, if not I'm sure Loren will have it for U.

[PTEC]

I would try and get one from a junkyard or dismantler or something first. That or try calling some high end audio shops around you and see if they have any lying around from upgrading other customers. Or try sunset, I think they sell at cost plus 10% or something like that. How much labor are they charging you? It takes about all of 10 minutes to replace the amp. You wont need any special tools. If I remember right the amp is held in with two 10mm hex head bolts. You don't need a radio code either.

Edited August 30, 2008 by PTEC

[911audiophile]

Hi all,

My radio has been acting up for a while(switching on and off by itself). I sort of ignored it cus I could tab the amplifier a few times to bring it back to life.

It became so bad, it kept switching on and off even I locked the car.

Well, the result was it drained the battery and my car was dead.

Battery has to be replaced by a new one. It has been over five years, so it is about time anyway.

The parts and labor for replacing the amp is $850! Well, thanks but no thanks.

I asked them to pull the fuse for the radio and amp before they install the new battery.

Just curious, where exactly is the fuse?

If I decide to install the amp myself, what special tools I need? Do I need the radio code?If so, where can I get the code?

Thanks!

Hi Hoth:

Not sure what MY your vehicle is, but I removed the Bose amps (main amp plus subwoofer amp) from my 2002 996C2 (last of the non-MOST 911s) and have them listed on Craigslist (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/757242975.html). I'm sure there are others out there on eBay also. Don't waste your money on a unit from the dealer.

Hope this helps,

Dan

[Dharn55]

What year is your car. I have the amp from a 2000, replaced mine. It was the upgraded HIFi system with speakers in the doors, not the Bose, but the amp might work. Let me know what you need, it is yours for the shipping costs. Also, you see them all the time on Ebay.

[laalves]

Hi Hoth:

Not sure what MY your vehicle is, but I removed the Bose amps (main amp plus subwoofer amp) from my 2002 996C2 (last of the non-MOST 911s) and have them listed on Craigslist (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/757242975.html). I'm sure there are others out there on eBay also. Don't waste your money on a unit from the dealer.

Hope this helps,

Dan

Ah! You found the Bose sub amp? Where is it located? I haven't been able to find it yet to remove it also, I just bypassed it. I would like to remove it also to sell it.

Thanks in advance,

Luís

[911audiophile]

Ah! You found the Bose sub amp? Where is it located? I haven't been able to find it yet to remove it also, I just bypassed it. I would like to remove it also to sell it.

Thanks in advance,

Luís

In my 2002 C2 Coupe, the sub amp was mounted on the same bracket as the main amp -- in the trunk behind the spare tire.

[The Hoth]

Thanks Dan,

I will look into your listing.

Our 996 is 2003 and yes I still need the code because I just replaced the battery.

I pulled the fuses for the amp and radio to prevent them from draining my new battery.

I wonder if yours would work on our 996......

Hi all,

My radio has been acting up for a while(switching on and off by itself). I sort of ignored it cus I could tab the amplifier a few times to bring it back to life.

It became so bad, it kept switching on and off even I locked the car.

Well, the result was it drained the battery and my car was dead.

Battery has to be replaced by a new one. It has been over five years, so it is about time anyway.

The parts and labor for replacing the amp is $850! Well, thanks but no thanks.

I asked them to pull the fuse for the radio and amp before they install the new battery.

Just curious, where exactly is the fuse?

If I decide to install the amp myself, what special tools I need? Do I need the radio code?If so, where can I get the code?

Thanks!

Hi Hoth:

Not sure what MY your vehicle is, but I removed the Bose amps (main amp plus subwoofer amp) from my 2002 996C2 (last of the non-MOST 911s) and have them listed on Craigslist (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/757242975.html). I'm sure there are others out there on eBay also. Don't waste your money on a unit from the dealer.

Hope this helps,

Dan

[The Hoth]

Thank you for your generousity! Seriously, not sure if it is Bose. On the window sticker, I believe it is listed as high end audio......something.

What year is your car. I have the amp from a 2000, replaced mine. It was the upgraded HIFi system with speakers in the doors, not the Bose, but the amp might work. Let me know what you need, it is yours for the shipping costs. Also, you see them all the time on Ebay.

[The Hoth]

often times it's written on the front hood label or manual, if not I'm sure Loren will have it for U.

The service manager said for 2003 and up I can't really enter the code. They use some sort of device from to upload the code into the radio to reactivate it. It would take 20 mins.

I call it BS. :huh:

Anyone has experience entering the code to reactivate the radio?

[whall]

If your car is a MY03, it has the MOST bus architecture which ties together the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier on a fiber optic network. The MOST bus is tied to the instrument cluster by the CAN bus. There are no radio codes (per se) associated with this setup. So....if you haven't changed the instrument cluster or any of the components on the MOST bus, and your radio is serviceable, you should not have to do anything to reactivate your radio after a power interruption.

If you change a component on the MOST bus or the instrument cluster, a PST2 / PIWIS has to be used to recode the system as a unit.

Bill

Edited September 6, 2008 by whall

[laalves]

In my 2002 C2 Coupe, the sub amp was mounted on the same bracket as the main amp -- in the trunk behind the spare tire.

Interesting. In my 2002 TT, it is not! The wiring goes from the Bose amp to somewhere. I suspect it is under the bass box in the back.

BTW, I just finished replacing the whole system with aftermarket stuff. Will post shortly my mods in the TT DIY forum.

Edited September 6, 2008 by laalves

[The Hoth]

If your car is a MY03, it has the MOST bus architecture which ties together the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier on a fiber optic network. The MOST bus is tied to the instrument cluster by the CAN bus. There are no radio codes (per se) associated with this setup. So....if you haven't changed the instrument cluster or any of the components on the MOST bus, and your radio is serviceable, you should not have to do anything to reactivate your radio after a power interruption.

If you change a component on the MOST bus or the instrument cluster, a PST2 / PIWIS has to be used to recode the system as a unit.

Bill

Thanks for your response. I don't have a CD changer nor a NAV. I believe the option code is m680 and the part number is 996 645 333 gx. It is a Bose upgrade and it was for MY03.

Just curious, what does "MOST" or "bus" mean?

I did a search on ebay and craig list and could not find it. Maybe I sound take it to a local electronic shop see if they can fix it.

Just brainstorming.....if you have any other idea, please feel free to share with me.

Thanks!

Thomas

[wross996TT]

see here: MOST This is the "communication system" Porsche went with MY03. In any case you don't need the code (explained above) as long as it is the stock radio and ECU. You need to find someone who knows MOST.

[whall]

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

[The Hoth]

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

Thanks! I've learned a lot with your posts. I guess I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a used Bose amp with MOST bus.

Everything is stock on our car. The Headunit is working (I supposed) and so are the speakers. I have no cd changer.

The dealer wrote me a quote with this part no. 996-645-333-gx. I looked it up on the diagram, I could find 996-645-333 but never see 996-645-333-gx.

I wonder why. I saw 996-645-333-gx on the Pelicanparts website. It is about $600. Come on, just an amp...... Trying to stay stock is getting tougher and tougher. :D

My car is in the shop for other repairs, do you think there is a label or something engraved on the amp with the part number?

[jerryko27]

Hi all,

My radio has been acting up for a while(switching on and off by itself). I sort of ignored it cus I could tab the amplifier a few times to bring it back to life.

It became so bad, it kept switching on and off even I locked the car.

Well, the result was it drained the battery and my car was dead.

Battery has to be replaced by a new one. It has been over five years, so it is about time anyway.

The parts and labor for replacing the amp is $850! Well, thanks but no thanks.

I asked them to pull the fuse for the radio and amp before they install the new battery.

Just curious, where exactly is the fuse?

If I decide to install the amp myself, what special tools I need? Do I need the radio code?If so, where can I get the code?

Thanks!

I have an HAES amplfier 6x40W p/n 996.645.322.00. Might this be what you're looking for?

[The Hoth]

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

Thanks! I've learned a lot with your posts. I guess I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a used Bose amp with MOST bus.

Everything is stock on our car. The Headunit is working (I supposed) and so are the speakers. I have no cd changer.

The dealer wrote me a quote with this part no. 996-645-333-gx. I looked it up on the diagram, I could find 996-645-333 but never see 996-645-333-gx.

I wonder why. I saw 996-645-333-gx on the Pelicanparts website. It is about $600. Come on, just an amp...... Trying to stay stock is getting tougher and tougher. :D

My car is in the shop for other repairs, do you think there is a label or something engraved on the amp with the part number?

Wow it has been a while.

The car is out for the summer. I can't believe it has been this long without the stereo. Actually, I don't miss it that much. Listensing the sound of the engine and exhaust (plus tire noises) is good enough for me.

However, it wouldn't hurt to have a functional stereo.

Okay, I finally checked the amp. There is a sticker on it. It has a part no. 996.645.255.01 It is not the partno in the dealer's quote. Strange?! :huh:

I will go do some searches on the net.

Wish me luck!

If you have one sitting around in your garage and you want to get rid of it. Please PM me!

Thanks in advance.

[The Hoth]

And the bus (or bus bar) in it's original 19th century terminology is : "a heavy conductor, often made of copper in the shape of a bar, used to collect, carry, and distribute powerful electric currents, as those produced by generators".

Now days, a bus more often refers to a distribution system which, sometimes, may only be a single electrical terminal where two or more devices share power or data distribution.

The MOST bus is a fiber optic cable that ties the radio, the external CD player, the telephone and the external amplifier together so as to share data. Electrically, the radio, et. al., are powered by their individual circuits, protected by fuses, coming from an electrical power distribution bus - the cable from the alternator/battery.

Bill

Thanks! I've learned a lot with your posts. I guess I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a used Bose amp with MOST bus.

Everything is stock on our car. The Headunit is working (I supposed) and so are the speakers. I have no cd changer.

The dealer wrote me a quote with this part no. 996-645-333-gx. I looked it up on the diagram, I could find 996-645-333 but never see 996-645-333-gx.

I wonder why. I saw 996-645-333-gx on the Pelicanparts website. It is about $600. Come on, just an amp...... Trying to stay stock is getting tougher and tougher. :D

My car is in the shop for other repairs, do you think there is a label or something engraved on the amp with the part number?

Wow it has been a while.

The car is out for the summer. I can't believe it has been this long without the stereo. Actually, I don't miss it that much. Listensing the sound of the engine and exhaust (plus tire noises) is good enough for me.

However, it wouldn't hurt to have a functional stereo.

Okay, I finally checked the amp. There is a sticker on it. It has a part no. 996.645.255.01 It is not the partno in the dealer's quote. Strange?! :huh:

I will go do some searches on the net.

Wish me luck!

If you have one sitting around in your garage and you want to get rid of it. Please PM me!

Thanks in advance.

My bad, the 996.645.255.01 part number is just the part no for the holder of the amp. Not the amp.

[jose]

Unplug and untight any screws supporting the amp bracket. Check the sticker at the amp.

Edited May 19, 2009 by jose

[deanslist.us]

I have a problem with my speakers fading in and out. I have an aftermarket amp, and speakers. Could the amp be causing this as well?