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Small engine hesitation


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Guys;

2003 Boxster 2.7

This problem was there before & after I change the spark plugs. Exemple: When driving at 60 mph in 5th speed if I touch the gas to accelerate a little, I can feel a one and only very tiny hesitation from the engine. It happen in any gear.

Any clue?

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  • Moderators

As wvicary mentioned, it could be many things, anyway i should start with a throttle body cleaning, a bottle of fuel treatment in the gas tank and a check under the air filter element. It can happen, when replacing the filter, some debris like a leaf gets in the filter housing and disturb the air flow to the MAF.

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1. Removed the air filter and look in the box. Some dust and leaf parts. Did use a small vaccum cleaner to suck that out.

2. Removed the complete throttle body and clean it. Black deposit aroung the butterfly damper. Now sparkling new. Take about 45 minutes in/out. Removing the air duct was very easy compare to what I did read on the forum. Reinstalling the duct on the throttle body was more tough but using an air dryer to heat the rubber duct was the clue. Took a minute under the dryer and it slip on the throttle body like a charm.

Will make a try tomorrow as today is a rainy one and let you know about the small hesitation at low RPM when accelerating.

Thierry

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Did a try today. Still that small hesitation at low RPM... Will look at the MAF sensor. Is there any way I can clean it? With what product?

Tks!

The brand CRC has a MAF specific cleaner - I don't know if it is any different than electronic cleaner, but that is what I have used.

You will likely need a "security" torx bit/driver to get the MAF out. The security torx driver has a small hole/depression in the center to accommodate the opposite on the screw.

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Did a try today. Still that small hesitation at low RPM... Will look at the MAF sensor. Is there any way I can clean it? With what product?

Tks!

The brand CRC has a MAF specific cleaner - I don't know if it is any different than electronic cleaner, but that is what I have used.

You will likely need a "security" torx bit/driver to get the MAF out. The security torx driver has a small hole/depression in the center to accommodate the opposite on the screw.

If you have Harbor Freight near you can get a TORX set for around $10 bucks

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Did buy the S-Torx. it is a T20 size. Did remove the MAS and clean it with a lot of electric contact cleaner. I will let it dry for a couple of hours.

Question: Do I have to unplug the battery for 5 minutes to let the car computer read the sensor like we are suppose to do for a new one or not?

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I don't believe it is neccessary to unplug your battery. You really should use the "MAF" cleaner but other have used the cleaner you used with success. Just re install and see if you have solved the problem.

Good luck I hope it works and congrats on the DIY!

Edited by phillipj
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Electronic Contact Cleaner is NOT MAF Sensor cleaner

I had thought it was based on my readings of the tech specs on the two products but I asked the manufacturer and their contact person said that the contents of the two cans was different. Could eb that the contact is just spouting amrketing pablum. Or could be true. Use at your own risk. (I used it, no harm detected.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, here is where I am now:

1) Did clean the throttle body

2) Did clean the MAS

3) Put a new air filter

Result: Still that hesitation at low RPM when accelerating.

Question: If I unplug the MAS sensor to see if it's the problem, any bodu can confirm is the Check Engine light will come on? I'm asking that because I don't have any thing to reset it.

Tks!

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Yes, if you unplug the MAF the check engine light will come on (fault P0102).

It can be cleaned (if you do not have a scan tool) by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Be sure you have your radio code handy and after a battery disconnect the engine will need to "re-learn" idle and your driving habits (usually in a few miles of driving).

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Today, hesitation problem goes up as fuel in tank goes down. After a refuling (about 65% of the tank) it looks better. Can it be someting in the gaz tank? Is there a safe product that I can put in the tank to help something?

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After a refuling (about 65% of the tank) it looks better-

maybe clogged,contaminated fuel filter or pump?

Today, hesitation problem goes up as fuel in tank goes down. After a refuling (about 65% of the tank) it looks better. Can it be someting in the gaz tank? Is there a safe product that I can put in the tank to help something?
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Other detail I can add, it looks like the hesitation doesn't happen when engine is cold, only when hot... I did order a OBDII cable to plug via USB to my laptop and wait for that to see what temperature MAF see and also be able to erase the fault when i will make a try after disconnected the MAF...

Edited by tolum
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  • 1 year later...

Other detail I can add, it looks like the hesitation doesn't happen when engine is cold, only when hot... I did order a OBDII cable to plug via USB to my laptop and wait for that to see what temperature MAF see and also be able to erase the fault when i will make a try after disconnected the MAF...

exactly like mine. so what was the final diagnosis? did you ever fixed the problem?

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Nop! Still have that annoying problem but for now, my Boxster is winterised. I will start to think about that next April but will look to that topic often in case yourself or somebody else find the solution...

Thierry

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  • 3 weeks later...

Nop! Still have that annoying problem but for now, my Boxster is winterised. I will start to think about that next April but will look to that topic often in case yourself or somebody else find the solution...

Thierry

My hesitation problem came back a few weeks ago, I cleaned the MAF again, it went away for a while until last week. The car now wouldn't rev at all when cold. And after it warmed up the engine would then stall randomly.:cursing:

Edited by panameras
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  • 8 months later...

Ok, I want to close that thread because it is fixed now.

Engine hesitations are gone. How? By changing my dual mass flywheel. The original one had too much play on it. When cruising at constant speed, flywheel is at equilibrium but when slightly putting the foot on the gas that too much play in the flywheel causes a very tiny transmission power loss that finally looks like an engine hesitation but it's not the case.

So with tranny removed, the clutch, flywheel, RMS, IMS upgrade and tranny oil change have been done. My car runs like a new one!

Thierry

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