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Overheating


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There was a coolant reservoir thread already so I'll not ask any questions about that.

Here is the situation:

I was driving up to paradise WA (basecamp on Ranier Mountain), all the way to the top I had AC on low and everything was running fine, my thermometer was even a little below mid temp. We got to the top, walked around for a half hour and headed back down. I noticed while I was driving that I smelled coolant and my engine was continueing to get hotter so I put it in neutral thinking it would cool down if it wasn't in gear and the temperature continued to rise. on a 60degree day at the top of the mountain and an engine that is quickly overheating i knew something was wrong (obviously). I pulled over and the pressure cap on my overflow tank had popped or blown off and my back drunk was covered in coolant.

A) I knew i had a small crack in my coolant reservoir and I am already replacing that, where should I order a new one from, and is it smart to look in a junkyard for this part?

B) Is there perhaps another issue I am missing with the overheating? I had to get it towed home because i couldn't drive it for more than 20minutes without the temperature beginning to climb to overheated very quickly.

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There was a coolant reservoir thread already so I'll not ask any questions about that.

Here is the situation:

I was driving up to paradise WA (basecamp on Ranier Mountain), all the way to the top I had AC on low and everything was running fine, my thermometer was even a little below mid temp. We got to the top, walked around for a half hour and headed back down. I noticed while I was driving that I smelled coolant and my engine was continueing to get hotter so I put it in neutral thinking it would cool down if it wasn't in gear and the temperature continued to rise. on a 60degree day at the top of the mountain and an engine that is quickly overheating i knew something was wrong (obviously). I pulled over and the pressure cap on my overflow tank had popped or blown off and my back drunk was covered in coolant.

A) I knew i had a small crack in my coolant reservoir and I am already replacing that, where should I order a new one from, and is it smart to look in a junkyard for this part?

B) Is there perhaps another issue I am missing with the overheating? I had to get it towed home because i couldn't drive it for more than 20minutes without the temperature beginning to climb to overheated very quickly.

Coolant Tank Cap from Barrier Porsche in Bellevue under $30, part number - 996.106.447.03

Coolant Tank from Sunset Porsche in Portland (Beaverton, OR) around $225 plus shipping, part number 996.106.147.08

Depending on loss of coolant may need more from Sunset Porsche (50% coolant/50% water ratio) around $25 a gallon

Trip to Paradise on Mt. Rainier - - - - - PRICELESS!!!!!!

Edited by kbrandsma
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Your engine oil is cooled by a engine oil cooler heat exchanger. Are you calling the bleeder valve an expansion chamber? If you take off the cover to the bleeder valve you might be able to determine a leak. The best way however is with a pressure test. I just picked up a new coolant cap today. Part number - 996.106.447.04

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You might check Sunset Porsche in oregon. Standard shipping is usually only a day away, and their pricing is pretty competitive. It's probably worth getting a new bleeder valve along with a cap when you replace the tank. Its also worth checking the pump while your in servicing the coolant system. If you've drained the coolant, you might consider upgrading the oil cooler(heat exchanger) to the 996 version. It really helps to handle the stop&go traffic and summer heat.

regards

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You might check Sunset Porsche in oregon. Standard shipping is usually only a day away, and their pricing is pretty competitive. It's probably worth getting a new bleeder valve along with a cap when you replace the tank. Its also worth checking the pump while your in servicing the coolant system. If you've drained the coolant, you might consider upgrading the oil cooler(heat exchanger) to the 996 version. It really helps to handle the stop&go traffic and summer heat.

regards

+1 on Sunset Porsche.

A new coolant reservoir already has a new bleeder valve as an integral part of the unit. No need to buy a a separate bleeder valve.

A new cap would also be a good idea, especially if your current cap part number doesn't end in "03" or "04".

Regards, Maurice.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I replaced my coolant reservoir/ expansion tank and was hooking all the hoses up. Everything was going fine, kinda a tight squeeze and i never knew i could fit inside my engine compartment (i'm 6,1) but i got most hooked up. I grabbed the last hose to attach it and it felt kind of loose like it was just float'n around inside there, and infact it WAS. I don't know where the clamps went or what the other end of the hose attaches to. Where do I get more clamps and where does this **** hose go?

Here is a picture of the hose that was discconected.

clip_image003_000.jpg

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No that is not the dip-stick tube. I don't really know what it does but it is connected to the coolant tank itself and i'll show you what hose it corresponds to on the tank.

clip_image002.jpg

DaemonRa:

I recently changed my coolant reservoir and I am reasonably certain (99%) that the hose that the red arrow is pointing to is the overflow hose.

Check from the top of the coolant reservoir (with the small, thin, black plastic cover pried up and removed) and you will see a small hole at about 7 O'Clock. That hole goes down and becomes a nipple onto which that hose is pushed on and the other end terminates by just dangling straight down inboard of the right rear wheel, usually fastened by a plastic clip to hold it in position part ways up.

The dipstick tube is partially visible in the top left hand corner of your photo.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
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Oh wow that quells my fears thanks a LOT! Yeah it had a broken clip on it but i didn't get to see what it was clipped to before i took the tank out.

ONE LAST THING:

Do i need to burp the coolant system? How do I do that? Is it bad if I don't?

You absolutely have to burp the system...repeatedly.

If you do it manually, it takes a while to get all of the trapped air out. Some people ride around with the bleeder valve in the vertical position for a few days to get the air out. Go to pedrosgarage.com website for a DIY on how to do it manually.

If you can swing $100, you can get the ULift tool by UView and bleed the system completely by the vacuum method. You need a compressor to use it, but it is foolproof and the best tool you can buy. It's about $500 with the Porsche stickers on it, and about $100 if you buy it directly from the company that makes it, through Amazon.com.

Do a search here for both the manual procedure and the ULift method.

Regards, Maurice.

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