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This is my first post. This has been a very informative web site. I changed my spark plugs last week! DYI posts were my motivation for trying it in the first place ... and not giving up. Only 6.5 hours and 1 bruised set of knuckles.

I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab, 6 spd 70,000 km's I live in Canada but imported the car from the US.

I took the advise and tried to search before I posted but perhaps missed this item.

Since purchasing this car I always felt the clutch was much stiffer than any car I've ever owned. While it took more force to operate the pedal always travelled smoothly. A few days ago I notice my clutch pedal had a strange feel to it as I depressed it the first few inches. It feels as if it is sticking, causing it to not travel smoothly. It was affecting my launch, making it very rough. I also noticed in 3rd and 4th gear that my clutch is slipping. I'm at 70,000 kms and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed. My guess is my clutch is shot but the pedal weirdness seams a little to coincidental. Can a bad clutch hydraulic cylinder be causing my clutch to not fully seat and therfore slip?

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In my experience if the clutch is very heavy it is a sign that the clutch is bad. it should cost around $1300 US to have a new kit with installation at a independent shop. The clutch is made by Sachs. My shop charges me around $90 an hour for labor here in chicago. I would get it taken care of soon as you don't want to get stranded somewhere with a clutch that is burned out.

This is my first post. This has been a very informative web site. I changed my spark plugs last week! DYI posts were my motivation for trying it in the first place ... and not giving up. Only 6.5 hours and 1 bruised set of knuckles.

I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab, 6 spd 70,000 km's I live in Canada but imported the car from the US.

I took the advise and tried to search before I posted but perhaps missed this item.

Since purchasing this car I always felt the clutch was much stiffer than any car I've ever owned. While it took more force to operate the pedal always travelled smoothly. A few days ago I notice my clutch pedal had a strange feel to it as I depressed it the first few inches. It feels as if it is sticking, causing it to not travel smoothly. It was affecting my launch, making it very rough. I also noticed in 3rd and 4th gear that my clutch is slipping. I'm at 70,000 kms and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed. My guess is my clutch is shot but the pedal weirdness seams a little to coincidental. Can a bad clutch hydraulic cylinder be causing my clutch to not fully seat and therfore slip?

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This is my first post. This has been a very informative web site. I changed my spark plugs last week! DYI posts were my motivation for trying it in the first place ... and not giving up. Only 6.5 hours and 1 bruised set of knuckles.

I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab, 6 spd 70,000 km's I live in Canada but imported the car from the US.

I took the advise and tried to search before I posted but perhaps missed this item.

Since purchasing this car I always felt the clutch was much stiffer than any car I've ever owned. While it took more force to operate the pedal always travelled smoothly. A few days ago I notice my clutch pedal had a strange feel to it as I depressed it the first few inches. It feels as if it is sticking, causing it to not travel smoothly. It was affecting my launch, making it very rough. I also noticed in 3rd and 4th gear that my clutch is slipping. I'm at 70,000 kms and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed. My guess is my clutch is shot but the pedal weirdness seams a little to coincidental. Can a bad clutch hydraulic cylinder be causing my clutch to not fully seat and therfore slip?

As the clutch wears the pedal feel becomes progressively stiffer. What you are describing sure looks like a you'll be needing a new clutch. If you are comfortable getting your car up on jack stands, the DIY is certainly doable for a newbie. I do recommend you get a transmission jack though. Maneuvering the tranny underneath the car is tricky at best, especially putting it back. You also need a star-bit for one of the bolts. Autozone sells them.

While you're in there check on the RMS and IMS for possible leaks.

JP

Edited by jperquin

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Hi there,

Did you have the clutch installed already?

I have the same problem, 03 4S with 75k on it.

Just so you know this is a standard problem, the motor seal to the dry clutch starts leaking and the oil gums up the clutch.

My brother in Germany had the same problem and Porsche does the entire work for free, not over here.

Porsche went to a better seal in 2007, this one will last.

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Hi there,

Did you have the clutch installed already?

I have the same problem, 03 4S with 75k on it.

Just so you know this is a standard problem, the motor seal to the dry clutch starts leaking and the oil gums up the clutch.

My brother in Germany had the same problem and Porsche does the entire work for free, not over here.

Porsche went to a better seal in 2007, this one will last.

I have a 03 996 with 36K on the clock.

I bought the car this past July from a private owner.

I too thought the clutch pedal was rather stiff.

Fortunately or unfortunately (depending on how you look at it) my RMS started to leak. MY car is CPO'd so the dealer said I should get the new seal installed. I called sunset Porsche and got the complete clutch kit for $490 shipped.

I told my service advisor to "throw" in the new clutch kit when they did the RMS under warranty. Labor cost to me $0.

The clutch pedal is much smoother/lighter now. I imagine that the pressure plate has alot to do with some of the additional tension of an older clutch.

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I changed my Clutch, Flywheel and RMS by myself without any experience. If you do it have good stands (higher than normal ones), a tranny jack that sits low. I did not get a RMS tool. I just bought a $5 plumming joint that was the same size as the RMS seal and tapped it in place.

The clutch was $350 flywheel $700, so it saved me big bucks. The only time I needed a hand was when I put the transmission back..

Kristian

Hi there,Did you have the clutch installed already?I have the same problem, 03 4S with 75k on it.Just so you know this is a standard problem, the motor seal to the dry clutch starts leaking and the oil gums up the clutch.My brother in Germany had the same problem and Porsche does the entire work for free, not over here.Porsche went to a better seal in 2007, this one will last.
I have a 03 996 with 36K on the clock.I bought the car this past July from a private owner.I too thought the clutch pedal was rather stiff.Fortunately or unfortunately (depending on how you look at it) my RMS started to leak. MY car is CPO'd so the dealer said I should get the new seal installed. I called sunset Porsche and got the complete clutch kit for $490 shipped.I told my service advisor to "throw" in the new clutch kit when they did the RMS under warranty. Labor cost to me $0.The clutch pedal is much smoother/lighter now. I imagine that the pressure plate has alot to do with some of the additional tension of an older clutch.
Edited by kristian

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I did not get the clutch changed yet. I store my car in the winter due to all the salt on the roads in our area. I figured it was best to park it a few weeks early and deal with the clutch in the spring. It is good to know the newer seals may last longer.

I used to own a Nissan 300Z years ago that I changed the clutch on but I only had to drop the transmission. Based on everything I have read, you need to remove the engine on the 996 to change the clutch - is this accurate? Both flyingpenguin and kristian above talk about handling the transmission but no one talks about the engine?

The only thing holding me back is the thought of dropping the engine; otherwise it would have been done by now...

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I did not get the clutch changed yet. I store my car in the winter due to all the salt on the roads in our area. I figured it was best to park it a few weeks early and deal with the clutch in the spring. It is good to know the newer seals may last longer.

I used to own a Nissan 300Z years ago that I changed the clutch on but I only had to drop the transmission. Based on everything I have read, you need to remove the engine on the 996 to change the clutch - is this accurate? Both flyingpenguin and kristian above talk about handling the transmission but no one talks about the engine?

The only thing holding me back is the thought of dropping the engine; otherwise it would have been done by now...

Re-attaching the tranny after all the work is done is easier with the engine out, but if you have no compelling reason to drop the engine for other work you need to do, you best leave the engine in. A transmission jack is your best friend though when maneuvering underneath the car.

JP

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Hi again, no need to drop the motor, its a 4 - 6 hour job for the first time, I will do mine over Christmas, and post the result after, no special tools needed except a torx bit for inside and outside ( drive shaft) if yours is a 4 S, a guide pin is helpful to center the clutch, I purchased all parts from Germany, total $ 800 CDN. Take care,

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Hey Kristian, can you post a pic or more details of that plumbing joint and how you used it?

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I bought it from Lowes. It's a PVC adapter that is the same size as the RMS seal. When you get the RMS seal, take it with you to a hardware store.

I placed it on top of the RMS seal and tapped lightly with a mallet evenly untill it slid in it's place.

The old RMS is hard to get out. I used a small drill and drilled a hole on it. Then I screwed a screw in it and pulled it out.

Kristian

PS. I had my car on jacks. If I would do it again, I would try to find higher jacks to have more room under there. I did not drop the engine.

I forgot that I bought a 12 star security bit to open up one of the security bolts on the transmission ($10) and a universal clutch centering pin for $30 from Napa Autoparts. Tranny jack was $80 from Harbor Freight Tools.

Hey Kristian, can you post a pic or more details of that plumbing joint and how you used it?

post-18320-1258578950_thumb.jpg

Edited by kristian

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