Oil Change

[andyjoshi]

Bought my dream car C2S 997-1 a few months back. Did my first oil change last weekend with the 996 diy as guideline. Huge THANX to the writers of the DIY for Placing the car on jack stands and the oil change itself. Had to get the Oil wrench tool from Pelican as I could not find one at the local auto parts store.

Someone asked a question about overfill (Thank fully I have the correct fill). Is it possible to just take out the oil filter canister without draining the oil. This way one can take out 1/2 qt each time, just a thought, comments welcome.

[JFP in PA]

Yes, but you probably will need a new canister gasket (comes with the oil filter) as they should not be reused.

[andyjoshi]

True.

[Doug_B_928]

I have been reading the Factory Workshop Manual about changing the oil filter (pp. 524-525). A few clarifications:

1. The WSM calls for placing a thin smear of Optimoly MP3 on the O-ring. I looked at the 996 DIY and it says to smear some oil on the O-ring and the threads of the filter housing. Is the latter okay for the 997, or is something different that requires the use of Optimoly MP3?

2. The WSM says to "Insert a new filter element." Does that mean to insert it into the part of the housing attached to the car, or into the housing that unscrews? I'm guessing the former, but having never done this want to be certain.

TIA

[logray]

1. Oil is fine.

2. Put the filter into the car first. Then screw the housing onto the car.

[Doug_B_928]

1. Oil is fine.

2. Put the filter into the car first. Then screw the housing onto the car.

Thanks very much logray (again :) ). Do you have any idea why Porsche changed from using oil on the 996 O-ring to Optimoly MP3 on the 997?

[logray]

Thanks very much logray (again :) ). Do you have any idea why Porsche changed from using oil on the 996 O-ring to Optimoly MP3 on the 997?

One thought perhaps is that the use of spline grease seals, lasts longe, and provides better thread wear protection than conventional motor oil (both are oil derivatives), which the latter is commonly used to aid the installation of the rubber seal. In practice though, for this connection, I would be surprised to see many leaks using the older conventional method. More likely problems (leaks) would be due to improper torque or threading than the grease IMHO. Just a theory though.

Edited September 14, 2011 by logray

[Doug_B_928]

There isn't a top and bottom to the filter, right? I know it probably sounds a bit obsessive, but just want to make sure. Main reason for doing this stuff (in addition to fun) is to ensure that everything is done correctly.

[JFP in PA]

There isn't a top and bottom to the filter, right? I know it probably sounds a bit obsessive, but just want to make sure. Main reason for doing this stuff (in addition to fun) is to ensure that everything is done correctly.

The OEM style filter is symmetrical and can go in either way.

[Doug_B_928]

Thanks for confirming JFP!

[logray]

Also I forgot to say I like to pour fresh oil about a little less than half way up the filter housing before I screw it on. I'm probably being anal doing it that way but I dont think it hurts doing either way. Maybe with oil already in the filter housing it reduces the chance of oil not getting to parts as fast as they should.

Edited September 22, 2011 by logray

[Doug_B_928]

Also I forgot to say I like to pour fresh oil about a little less than half way up the filter housing before I screw it on. I'm probably being anal doing it that way but I dont think it hurts doing either way. Maybe with oil already in the filter housing it reduces the chance of oil not getting to parts as fast as they should.

Okay, will do.

[Doug_B_928]

I got the oil today (Mobil 1 0W40 is expensive here, $11/litre before environmental and sales taxes). I was looking through the forums one last time and making notes. I saw some differences of opinion about adding oil to the filter housing before screwing it on. It makes sense to me to pre-fill it, but the WSM doesn't call for it. Does anyone know if Porsche mechanics do this? If not, I'll defer to the WSM.

[JFP in PA]

Pre filling the oil filter, OEM style canister or spin on, is always a good idea, shortens the time until the engine first develops oil flow and pressure on start up.

[Doug_B_928]

I did the oil change yesterday and it went perfectly. I thought I'd provide the information in this post that I consolidated from this and other forums for any others who are interested. Pics attached. Thanks to all those who provided this information.

1. I changed the oil with a warm engine so that the oil would drain more easily.

2. I didn't unscrew the cap on the filler neck until midway through the draining process so that the oil wouldn't come out too quickly.

3. Unscrew the drain plug using an 8mm hex bit and let drain into a collecting basin. Next time I'll also place a tarp on the floor to catch any splatter that comes from the collecting basin.

4. While the oil was still dribbling, I loosened the oil filter housing using the special tool Oil Filter Spanner 92040.

5. While waiting for the oil filter element to completely drain, I removed the old O-ring from the oil filter housing. I used a flat head screw driver to get under it and to pry it off. Ensure not to scratch/damage the oil filter housing. The O-ring comes off very easily.

6. I then cleaned the oil filter housing, and placed a new O-ring on the oil filter housing. In the latter regard, I dipped the O-ring in some of the oil that was still inside the housing, distributed it all over the O-ring, and then gently rolled the O-ring over the housing until it rolled into place. Rolling it on evenly ensures that it doesn't get twisted, which would hamper making a good seal.

7. I then removed the old oil filter and cut it open to inspect it for metal fragments. Apparently small pepper sized metal fragments are okay, but cracked pepper sized fragments are a sign of potential problems. Mine looked great, with only a few little metal fragments in the entire filter.

8. Then I replaced the drain plug. I changed from the original to a magnetic one from LN Engineering (via Pelican Parts). It uses a 10mm hex. When putting the new aluminum sealing ring on the drain plug, ensure the smooth side is toward the engine block and the sharp edged side is toward the plug. I turned it counter clockwise until if felt it seat, then turned it clockwise by hand to ensure no cross-threading. Then use a torque wrench to tighten to 37 ftlb torque.

9. Then I inserted a new filter element. Place a little pressure on it and it pops right in place.

10. I prefilled the oil filter housing to somewhere between 1/3 and just under 1/2 full. Then screw it on by hand and finish with a torque wrench tightening to 19 ftlb torque (my 1/4" torque wrench only goes to 200 inlb which is a bit less than 19 ftlb--228inlb, and my 1/2" starts at 20ftlb; so I put it on with the 1/4 at 200 inlb and then checked with the 1/4" at 20 ftlb and got the click right away, so it should be about right).

11. I then began filling oil, having placed some paper towel to catch some drips under the filler neck. I put in the rest of the container that I started for the oil filter housing, as well as 7 more litres (i.e., 8 litres).

12. Check oil level. It gave an overfull indication, which apparently is normal. I started the car and let it run for about 15 seconds (Despite having prefilled the oil filter housing, I did get a low pressure warning that lasted only a second). Then started the check oil procedure again. This time it takes about 30 minutes. It tested one segment short (sorry for the poor pic but you'll get the idea). One segment corresponds to 0.4 litres, so I put in 400ml more, checked again with ignition only, and the oil level was perfect. So, the total oil used was 8.4 litres.

13. Then start the motor again and let run for a few minutes. Check for leaks.

14. Take it for a spin, and check for leaks.

[andyjoshi]

Fantastically detailed write-up. :drive:

[Loren]

Converted this to DIY Tutorial -- you can find it here

[Doug_B_928]

I've only taken my car for a short 15 minute spin and started it a couple of times so far this season. But I've noticed each time that the oil level says overfilled. As you can see above in my write-up, the oil level was perfect when I changed it and it remained that way for the rest of the times of drove the car last fall, though that wasn't too many times. Why would it be too full now? Condensation? Should I wait until I take it for a good one hour ride and see if it goes down (i.e., burn off condensation), or should I remove some oil before running it further?

[logray]

Every engine has a buffer zone, I'm sure you are well below that given your procedure.

Could be condensation, could be the procedure, perhaps not enough drain down time.

Oil does expand when it's hot.

You could just remove the oil filter and drain a portion of a quart and then reinstall... simple and you don't have to drain all the oil.

Personally I would take it for a good trashing, get it good and hot, then let it sit for about 30 minutes, and then read the oil level again.

What you see there determines your next course of action. Whether you do nothing or you remove the oil filter and drain a small portion of oil.

Too bad your car does not have a dipstick.

[Doug_B_928]

Thanks logray.

Too bad your car does not have a dipstick.

That's for sure!

[brendel]

I have done mine this week end

3.8 S engine, I waited more than half an hour with cold 5W50 oil to drain, put 8.5 L ( I did change the filter) and get an overfill after the some drives (first times was ok)

In the end who cares, this is a semi dry sump engine , there are no rotating parts in contact with the oil, I assume a slight overfill should have no effect

Then again how accurate is the electronic oil level vs dipstick, who says there is an overfill...

Cheers

Michel

[Doug_B_928]

Interstingly, I think it might be pretty accurate. My garage has a drain and the floor slopes slightly toward the drain. I put my car on my lift, which is level, and the oil measurement is bang on.

[Schilling]

Any advice on how to overcome what seems to be a siezed 8mm oil pan drain plug? tried very very carefuly to remove the plug (in order to do a oil and oil filter change myself rather than spring for $230 at the local dealer).

i certainly don't want t.o deform the plug (this is the first 997 i've owned but i've aalways changed my own oil in previous cars and am somewhat mechanically minded).

any help/advice is appreciated

[Loren]

Any advice on how to overcome what seems to be a siezed 8mm oil pan drain plug? tried very very carefuly to remove the plug (in order to do a oil and oil filter change myself rather than spring for $230 at the local dealer).

i certainly don't want t.o deform the plug (this is the first 997 i've owned but i've aalways changed my own oil in previous cars and am somewhat mechanically minded).

any help/advice is appreciated

Same as on the earlier engines...

[Schilling]

fantastic! thanks for the direction to the earlier thread! appreciate it very much!!