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What does this tiptronic transmission error mean?


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Because of the issues I'm having with my transmission, I had the local indy come by and connect his Durametrics system to my car (2002 C4S Tip RoW). Below is a picture I took of the error that was shown on his PC screen. He did clear the error codes, but when he ran the diagnostic again, the same error messages popped up. Any indication as to what this means?!

post-10928-0-61398600-1383240182_thumb.j

Edited by GOB
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Not sure what 50 is (cannot find a reference), but 51 is a code for a short to ground in the manual program switch. Possible areas are the transmission wiring harness, transmission control unit, or the selector lever switch.

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Thanks Jeff. Would this be the cause for my transmission problem (when I brake moderately, the transmission "slips" before engaging the gear; on another instance, it just remained "stuck" on 3rd gear until I re started the vehicle).

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Thanks Jeff. Would this be the cause for my transmission problem (when I brake moderately, the transmission "slips" before engaging the gear; on another instance, it just remained "stuck" on 3rd gear until I re started the vehicle).

Don't really know, the code normally means the trans won't go into the "manual mode" when it is selected, and shifts in the normal "automatic mode". Haven't heard anything about slipping or getting stuck in one gear.

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Yeap, in my case, the steering wheel buttons work as they should regardless if the gear selector is on "automatic" or "manual" mode.

I just hope that the ATF flush takes care of the slipping and I will not have a repeat of the stuck in a gear (where the buttons on the wheel had no effect!)

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Put a new filter in with the flush.

There is a Brit series where they buy a car cheap and then fix it up for resale. They recently did a Boxster automatic that would shift fine using the buttons but would hang up when in auto. They dropped the trans pan and changed the filter, refilled it and it worked fine again.

found it

http://www.streetfire.net/video/wheeler-dealers-porsche-boxster-s_part-1_2421732.htm

Edited by fpb111
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  • 1 month later...

Update: I got my car serviced yesterday afternoon. I barely had any ATF in the case as the mechanic had to put 5.5 quarts of ATF back into the transmission in order to get the the correct level. Of note, the transmission seemed to work fine, unless I braked somewhat aggressively (I'm assuming due to the low level).

When the car was put on the lift, I had the chance to see exactly what kind of a mess there was of oil ALL over the place on the under tray. We are talking drops of oil dripping from it. According to my tech, it seems as if the seal between the transmission case and the rear diff is the culprit. Something about the bell housing, but it is not where the transmission connects to the engine. It is somewhere around where the two rear seats are. Any idea as to which seal this may be? An exploded view of sorts with part numbers would be very grateful.

My choices are: $75 labor to top off level plus the cost of ATF, or drop the transmission and have the seals replaced (waiting on labor cost estimate for this and need to figure out which seals/parts I would need).

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Update: I got my car serviced yesterday afternoon. I barely had any ATF in the case as the mechanic had to put 5.5 quarts of ATF back into the transmission in order to get the the correct level. Of note, the transmission seemed to work fine, unless I braked somewhat aggressively (I'm assuming due to the low level).

When the car was put on the lift, I had the chance to see exactly what kind of a mess there was of oil ALL over the place on the under tray. We are talking drops of oil dripping from it. According to my tech, it seems as if the seal between the transmission case and the rear diff is the culprit. Something about the bell housing, but it is not where the transmission connects to the engine. It is somewhere around where the two rear seats are. Any idea as to which seal this may be? An exploded view of sorts with part numbers would be very grateful.

My choices are: $75 labor to top off level plus the cost of ATF, or drop the transmission and have the seals replaced (waiting on labor cost estimate for this and need to figure out which seals/parts I would need).

The first thing we would do would be to completely clean the engine and trans off, then run the car for a day and look at it again to see where the leak is. Quite often a small leak will look like it is coming from somewhere else because of the way the fluid spreads about.

As for an exploded parts view, look up the Auto Atlanta website, find the parts diagram for your car, and you should find all the necessary part numbers. But you need to isolate exactly where the leaks are first.

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I completely agree with you Jeff. The entire bottom was cleaned off with tons of rags and 2 cans of brake cleaner. Looked like new when they were done. Will make sure to go there again on Tuesday (holidays down here til then...) and see if we can take a peek again and be precise with the source of the leak. It's definitely there as I found two drops of oil this morning when I left for what was a very nice spirited drive!

Below is what I think is the correct diagram, but unfortunately, it does not give me the part number for the large seal that is shown in the pic...

post-10928-0-58096500-1386436539_thumb.g

Edited by GOB
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I completely agree with you Jeff. The entire bottom was cleaned off with tons of rags and 2 cans of brake cleaner. Looked like new when they were done. Will make sure to go there again on Tuesday (holidays down here til then...) and see if we can take a peek again and be precise with the source of the leak. It's definitely there as I found two drops of oil this morning when I left for what was a very nice spirited drive!

Below is what I think is the correct diagram, but unfortunately, it does not give me the part number for the large seal that is shown in the pic...

You may need to give a dealer a call for part numbers once you have isolated the leaks.

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