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Coming into a toll booth today, my clutch pedal suddenly got really difficult to depress. I pumped it a couple of times and I was able to get into first, and the feel improved, but it's not back to normal, and it seems that the pedal will not go all the way to the floor. With the car off, it feels normal. From a stop, getting into first takes more effort than before.

What's the diagnosis??

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Coming into a toll booth today, my clutch pedal suddenly got really difficult to depress. I pumped it a couple of times and I was able to get into first, and the feel improved, but it's not back to normal, and it seems that the pedal will not go all the way to the floor. With the car off, it feels normal. From a stop, getting into first takes more effort than before.

What's the diagnosis??

When was the last time the clutch hydraulics were flushed?

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Thanks for the input...a flush was my first thought, too. Time to break out the Power Bleeder. I know where the bleed fitting is on a Boxster 6sp. Is it basically the same, just on the passengers side for the 996?

Basically, if anything, it is easier to get at than a 986............

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Thanks for the input...a flush was my first thought, too. Time to break out the Power Bleeder. I know where the bleed fitting is on a Boxster 6sp. Is it basically the same, just on the passengers side for the 996?

It's way up above the rear left wheel. Mush easier if you remove the wheel.

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Drove home tonight, 1hrcommute. At a stoplight, clutch all the way to the floor, I can smell the clutch burning. It's tough to get it into first, then the other gears are also tougher than usual. Oh $hit.

Stop driving the car, let it cool down and flush/bleed the clutch, then see how it drives; if the clutch is gone, it's gone and there is no reason to belabor it. And if that is the case, you have a golden opportunity to not only replace the clutch with a new one, but do the RMS and IMS updates as well while you are in there.

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Got the bleed done. It was much easier than on the 986, and there was some air int the line. Unfortunately it did not solve the problem. While I had the car up on stands, I put her in gear with the clutch to the floor and the rear wheels were still getting power. Looks like it's clutch time. I did the clutch on the 986 and it was a pretty easy job. Any tips for doing the clutch on my C4?

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Got the bleed done. It was much easier than on the 986, and there was some air int the line. Unfortunately it did not solve the problem. While I had the car up on stands, I put her in gear with the clutch to the floor and the rear wheels were still getting power. Looks like it's clutch time. I did the clutch on the 986 and it was a pretty easy job. Any tips for doing the clutch on my C4?

If you have already done a Boxster, this should be old home week for you, with the exception of four wheel drive. Be sure to check the flywheel for unevenness and twist, you don't want to be doing this twice.

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Got the trans out today, and I definitely need a clutch. The $800 question is, "do I need a flywheel, too?" And I definitely need to do the RMS...and now I'm in the whole IMS fracas. Replace or not, and if I replace (almost certainly), which one???

By the way, the job was pretty straightforward until the pressure plate bolts. The previous mechanic had f-ed up the Allen holes, so I had to slot them with a die grinder then use this flat bit screwdriver socket on an impact wrench. Nothing as fun as a die grinder in a tight space!

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post-6798-0-66235700-1391298226_thumb.jp

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post-6798-0-98568000-1391298472_thumb.jp

post-6798-0-86619400-1391298486_thumb.jp

Edited by jaekormtb
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Just for comparison, I got my 986 @ 60k miles and replaced the clutch (original) at 142k. That clutch was still ok, but I was having the 2nd gear pop out and need a trans rebuild. Got my 996 C4 @ 50k, and now at 75k I'm doing the clutch...and it looks like it was done before.

When I did the 986, theRMS looked good, and I figured if the IMS had lasted this long, that I'd let it go. She's at 166k now and looking forward to another season of racing!!

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Got the trans out today, and I definitely need a clutch. The $800 question is, "do I need a flywheel, too?" And I definitely need to do the RMS...and now I'm in the whole IMS fracas. Replace or not, and if I replace (almost certainly), which one???

By the way, the job was pretty straightforward until the pressure plate bolts. The previous mechanic had f-ed up the Allen holes, so I had to slot them with a die grinder then use this flat bit screwdriver socket on an impact wrench. Nothing as fun as a die grinder in a tight space!

OK, this will help you with testing the dual mass: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/44-TRANS-Clutch/DualFlywheelTechBulletin.pdf Even if it passes the "twist test", you still need to look at the surface for unevenness or severe pitting; remember that the dual mass cannot be resurfaced, so if it fails twist or looks like the Moon, time for a new unit.

I would not hesitate to replace the IMS with the LN dual row (your 1999 should be a factory dual row), not all that expensive and you will sleep a lot better once it is in. Also a major plus at sale time......

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