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V8 transmission - only get 4 quarts in and other issues


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I am changing all the fluids in the car and the gearbox is nearly the last one to do. This was where it all came unstuck.

I removed the pan, put the new filter, o-rings and gasket in and re-attached the sump pan.

I followed the tutorial on this DIY section as I went, filling the transmission slowly and cycling through the gears then back to park every few mins before adding another half quart. I repeated this at least 8 or 9 times. My transmission fluid was at over 40C according to my Durametric but no matter what, I could not get more than 4.5 quarts in the car before it drained out.

I then noticed I was getting some seepage along the edge of the new gasket so I pulled the pan back off and reseated the gasket. Still getting seepage, so I tightened the bolts a little more and one snapped off. The seepage increased.

So I now have 4 questions.

1. How hard is it likely to be to drill out and put a new bolt in there? I have a pretty extensive tool kit, but no access to a car lift, just jack stands.

2. Any ideas why there should be seepage with the new gasket?

3. Why would the transmission not take more than 4.5 quarts, when it should take twice that much?

4. Would I risk damage if I drove the car to a shop about 1 mile away with a half filled transmission?

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None of this sounds fun....

I changed the fluid twice on my original CTT. I can't speak to the seepage issue and feel absolutely horrible about the bolt, but I have a thought on the short fill of fluid. My money is on a bad seal with the o - ring and filter. I had the same issue with my first ATF fluid change, finding 5 containers of unused fluid. I tore everything back off and found that the o - ring had slid slightly out of the groove and developed a pinch. I changed out the filter and o - ring again, buttoned up and all was right, she drank everything I had and more.

Also, compete side issue, but if you are having random rough downshift issues you may want to pull the AT Valve body off while you're fixing the bolt issue and have the solenoids re-built.

I'd tow her in though as opposed to driving it. I've played around with that transmission a bit and repairing it adds up into the thousands very quickly.

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I am changing all the fluids in the car and the gearbox is nearly the last one to do. This was where it all came unstuck.

I removed the pan, put the new filter, o-rings and gasket in and re-attached the sump pan.

I followed the tutorial on this DIY section as I went, filling the transmission slowly and cycling through the gears then back to park every few mins before adding another half quart. I repeated this at least 8 or 9 times. My transmission fluid was at over 40C according to my Durametric but no matter what, I could not get more than 4.5 quarts in the car before it drained out.

I then noticed I was getting some seepage along the edge of the new gasket so I pulled the pan back off and reseated the gasket. Still getting seepage, so I tightened the bolts a little more and one snapped off. The seepage increased.

So I now have 4 questions.

1. How hard is it likely to be to drill out and put a new bolt in there? I have a pretty extensive tool kit, but no access to a car lift, just jack stands.

2. Any ideas why there should be seepage with the new gasket?

3. Why would the transmission not take more than 4.5 quarts, when it should take twice that much?

4. Would I risk damage if I drove the car to a shop about 1 mile away with a half filled transmission?

1. I don't think you will need to drill it out. Since the head snapped off, there is no more thread load....see if you can cut a small slit in the remaining piece and turn it out with a flathead screwdriver.

2. Seepage is almost always due to dirty mating surface....pull the gasket and clean the faces off really well....

3. like the guy above....pull the filter and see that the o ring is seated....and that you took out the old one....the other thing.....if you get it too hot, additional fluid will come out....so it needs be right at 41C, no more....no less.

4. I would NOT drive it with such low fluid......

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Thanks for all your advice. I pulled the pan back off and cut a slot in the broken bolt and managed to remove it successfully. Just need to source a replacement now.

The advice about the O ring in the filter was correct - it had not seated correctly when I replaced it. I am reinstalling today with the benefit of daylight to help. :-)

I am now investigating the seepage, it seems there are a couple of erroneous stamped slots in the mating edge of the pan exactly where the seepage is occurring. These slots are in no other part of the pan.

I'll try to make sure it is surgically clean before reassembly, but this may be the cause of the seep.

2014-02-23141910_zps469111a8.jpg

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I too had trouble getting the full volume of oil back into the transmission when I did mine. I think I could only get 7.5 liters in at first. Then I realized that the transmission had to be in D to take the full volume. Actually I can't remember which it was D or N. Regardless, see if that might have been the reason you couldn't get the full volume of oil back in. I'll try and see if I can find which gear the transmission should be selected in the meantime.

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You cant get any more ATF in the trans because you are not following the proper service procedure. You need to make a simple filling tool and pump ATF in the fill plug on the transmission. See DIY below and go to step # 14 though step #19. The second DIY has some better pictures of the tool and detailed fill procedure. Hope this helps.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/310-v8-automatic-transmission-fluid-and-filter-change/

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/307-cayenne-valve-body-replacement-diy/

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After re-reading the procedure I now recall that my issue at not being able to fill it all the way up was due to turning off the engine between filling cycles. The filling has to happen with the engine running as described in the DIY's listed above. Cycle through the gears, then put it in park with the engine running and top off. Reinstall the plug. cycle through the gears, then put it in park and top it off again. Rinse and repeat. You'll find that it is a messy job.

Edited by jagman1
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I did follow the DIY step by step, especially the parts about engine running, cycling the gears through in between fills and oil at 41C. I never had the engine off at any point during the fill procedure, apart from when I stopped for an hour to let the oil cool down to 40C again.

However, to be sure, I tried again today and had the car on jacks, running in drive (wheels spinning) as I tried to get the last quart in. I could not get another drop in the transmission without it coming back out again, so I have only 7.5 quarts. Is this likely to damage my box - should I take it to a shop and see if they can do any better?

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If it's full then it's full, 7.5qts is pretty close to the mark, especially for an '04 which had about 1/2qt capacity less than '05 onwards. If you can, drive it for a mile or so and park for a few hours to let it cool down some, then recheck the fill procedure. Guaranteed to get any air out of it and you are probably so close to the proper level your definitely not going to damage anything. Make sure you have the fill plug in at no more than 40' or you will be a bit low. A large rebuilder I know recommends closer to 35'~40'. He say's better to be a touch high than a touch low.

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my 04CTT could only use around 7 to 8 qts of fluid, I measured the old fluid that I drained. the topic has been covered in one of the documents by Porsche, most likely as TSB. it says 04 p!gs has smaller capacity in terms of transmission fluids. you might want to check out the TSB part of renntech. I have read that before myself. Like hahnmgh63 said, recheck it.

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