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Confirmation of window regulator problem

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I have spent quite a few hours going over many posts about microswitches and window regulator problems and I just wanted confirmation on the diagnosis of the problem I'm currently having with my passenger side window (it only drops ±1mm vs. the ±10mm when pulling on the inside or outside handles, thus the window catches on the A pillar and roof).

 

I have performed the limits reset and still the problem is not solved.  The window will go all the way down and up with the door either closed or open, thus the motor is not the problem.  The window does drop (barely) when pulling on the handles (inside and outside), thus the microswitches seem to be working.  I am able to press the window down with my hand and it does in fact drop a bit.So, is my diagnosis/assumption that the culprit is the window regulator a correct one?

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I have spent quite a few hours going over many posts about microswitches and window regulator problems and I just wanted confirmation on the diagnosis of the problem I'm currently having with my passenger side window (it only drops ±1mm vs. the ±10mm when pulling on the inside or outside handles, thus the window catches on the A pillar and roof).

 

I have performed the limits reset and still the problem is not solved.  The window will go all the way down and up with the door either closed or open, thus the motor is not the problem.  The window does drop (barely) when pulling on the handles (inside and outside), thus the microswitches seem to be working.  I am able to press the window down with my hand and it does in fact drop a bit.So, is my diagnosis/assumption that the culprit is the window regulator a correct one?

It sounds like you have diagnosed it correctly as a bad regulator. I had the same symptoms as yours on the driver's side. Replaced the regulator, and all is well! If you look at the cable sheathing, I bet you it's bunching-up at the connector, a sign that the cable has stretched a bit.

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It is definitely your regulator and more specifically some slack in the cable.  The slack is usually caused by the failure of one or more of the plastic "spacers" or flanges.

 

There is an ingenious fix which costs only about $1.00 to implement.  It involves installing a bicycle brake adjuster inline to take up the slack.  I learned about the fix on 986forum and used it on my Boxster, where it has been working perfectly for almost two years.

 

If you want more details, let me know and I'll dig up some pics.

 

Regards, Maurice.

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I like to see those pics if you can manage to dig them up.  I repaired an electric window mechanism on a Hyundai some years back with a stop and an adjuster from a mountain bike.  

 

H

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I have to dig around for that post.  I recall reading it, as well as some other marine epoxy.  If someone has it handy, please reply on this post with a link to that post.  As of now, the local dealer has the part for $230 and labor is $200 (they say 1 hour 45 minutes to replace).

 

Tomorrow the local indy is going to take a look at the car and confirm the diagnosis as well as determine if the used regulator he has is for the driver side or passenger side.  I'm more inclined to do the "bike repair" on the regulator that I currently have.  Gotta find time to search for the post and detailed explanations so I can show it to the indy and see if he can do this for me.  That said, the local bike shop I use has the cables for nearly $15 (I know since I just had all the cables replaced on my road bike and it was a surprise to me how pricey those suckers are!).

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Thanks RFM!  Maurice, or anyone else who has performed this, is the bike brake adjuster supposed to just slip over the existing cable?  I would think that the metal in the adjuster tube and nut would not "give enough" to go over the existing cable and not leaving it permanently damaged, but I could be wrong (my wife would say quite often...)

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Excellent find, RFM!  I actually forgot that I had posted that a while ago.  This is what inevitably happens (to some of us) with age!  :eek:

 

The bicycle brake adjuster does just slip right over the existing cable.  All you have to do is inspect your cable first to make sure that it is not frayed or unraveling itself.  If the cable is intact, you do not need to do anything to the cable (which would also complicate the repair).  Just slip the slit adjuster over the cable and adjust the tension so that there is no slack being taken up when you first pull on the door handle.

 

If it's adjusted correctly, the downward movement of the window (for that 1/2 inch) will be nearly instantaneous with the pull of the handle.

 

Here are two photos of two versions of the fix, depending on the amount of slack that has to be taken up.  Note that the key is that the bicycle brake adjuster holds the outer sheath pulled back from where it would otherwise produce slack in the inner cable:

 

post-6627-0-75452900-1406649185_thumb.jp

 

post-6627-0-24242300-1406649212_thumb.jp

 

As I said earlier, if your cable is intact there is no need to replace the entire window regulator or even the cable.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir

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