Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Coolant Tank / Coolant Reservoir Removal Help Request (Pix)


Recommended Posts

2008 911 Carrera Coupe

 

Picture one shows the obstruction and why I believe the engine needs to be lowered.

 

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t412/natgeoff/CoolantTankObstruction_zps7c7af80f.jpg

 

The first of two problems I am having is how to lower the engine.  The car is currently on JackStands and the engine is supported by a floor jack, which I have jacked up about 1-2 inches to "take the weight off the support crossbar".  I am accessing the 18mm nuts (see picture) but cannot for the life of me get them to budge - even with a cheater bar on my ratchet.  Is there a lock pin I am missing?  Or, do I simply need to jack the engine up higher.

 

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t412/natgeoff/MotorMountScrew_zps7c0e7455.jpg

 

The second issue is not really a problem in as much as it is a question.  If you reference the picture below, you may notice that the exhaust pipes are secured to a crossmember that is attached to the engine mount support crossbar.  It seems like the exhaust strap should be removed prior to lowering the engine.  Any guidance is greatly appreciated as I am currently "under the car."

 

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t412/natgeoff/ExhaustStrap_zpsd818cc29.jpg

Edited by djed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not able to answer your specific questions, but I lowered the engine for my coolant and water pump procedure.  The write-up is posted here so if you look in the DIY section and read my write-up you'll see in detail how what I did to lower the engine (what brackets were removed etc.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doug,

 

Thank you.  I spent a considerable amount of time reviewing your write up (thank you, by the way) prior to starting my project and am still stuck. 

 

I'm in Studio City, California if anybody local is around to help.  I've got tons of beer on hand in case it makes a difference.  :-)

 

Again - thank you.

 

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE:

 

I was able to break the motor mount nuts loose and lower the engine as far as it can go but was unable to get the coolant tank out ... until I took a hack saw to one of the nipples.  ;-)

 

I am unable, however, to get the new coolant tank in.  The engine would not drop any farther than it did (which wasn't sufficient to get the new tank in).  It actually looks as low as Doug had it in his water pump thread, but I'm not having any luck.

 

There is another thread on this site where a site member raised the passenger side which helped but that didn't work for me.

 

It's dark so I raised the engine, replaced the nuts on the motor mount, and lowered the car back down.  Right now, the car is on jack stands (rear only) and I plan to leave it there until I have more time.  There must be something in the way that's keeping the engine from lowering further. 

 

Any help would be appreciated.  I would hate to have the car towed to a shop to get the work done.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something I noticed when mine was done was the air con pipes which go from the compressor to a fitting on the side wall.  They can get stretched and if very tight can hold the engine up.  The support bracket on the side wall disconnects easily and can give a bit more float to play with.   

 

We were also doing the AOS at the same time so had taken off a lot of other stuff on the coolant tank side, but as you say it's a tight fit.  Don't forget to put in a new coolant warning sensor as it's a pig to do it afterwards.  I also put on a new cap.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Folks,

 

I could really use your help.  I'm back at it and I've lowered the engine such that the transmission is now resting on a cross beam that won't let the engine drop any further.  The engine has come down 3 inches, but I'm still getting hung up when I try to get the new tank in.  I've even disconnected the clamp holding the two inch aluminum pipe along the sidewall (which connects to a rubber hose towards the rear of the car) and can't make my way through.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Otherwise, I'm going to call for a tow on Monday to the local shop.

 

Thank you.

 

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure about 997 but on 996.2, I needed to remove the black mountng bracket on top of the coolant tank to get the tank out.

Part #6 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=105-20

Thank you. I've got the coolant tank out (because I cut the nipple off the old tank with the leak) but can't get the new one back in. I can get the tank in if I remove the bracket but then I can't get the bracket back in with the tank in place.

Keep the good ideas coming.

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure about 997 but on 996.2, I needed to remove the black mountng bracket on top of the coolant tank to get the tank out.

Part #6 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=997-05-08&section=105-20

Thank you. I've got the coolant tank out (because I cut the nipple off the old tank with the leak) but can't get the new one back in. I can get the tank in if I remove the bracket but then I can't get the bracket back in with the tank in place.

Keep the good ideas coming.

David

You are very close and yes, you will struggle to get the bracket back on the car with the tank in place. What makes it easier is to put the tank in first, then slide the bracket onto the tank but not completely so you can reinstall one of the screws holding the bracket. Once one screw is in, you can slide the tank off the bracket and install the other screw. Both are a bear but not impossible with patience. Some ppl just gave up on the second screw and leave one screw holding the bracket without bad effects. I managed to get both screws back on the bracket. Good luck!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For what it is worth, when I reinstalled my coolant tank I found that holding the tank nearly level while positioning it to bypass the obstructions at the top and bottom of the engine bay made it easier for me to get it into position. As you say the bracket that holds the tank in place can not be replaced after the tank is in position. I held the tank as close to the top bracket as I could and angled the back end of the tank toward the fender wall. I held tank was as parallel to the ground as I could given the various obstructions. (Holding the tank at an upward or downward angle and trying to install it would not allow me to get it into the engine bay no matter how a twisted the tank. )

Edited by dphatch
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to everyone that contributed. 

 

I had the car towed to the local independent Porsche shop that I have used in the past and had the tank installed today.

 

I watched as the tech installed the tank (with difficulty) and he did not remove the upper bracket.  He did remove the 2" rubber cooling hose from the 2" hard line along the sidewall.  Bleeding the air from the system on refill took a while but was as described in other posts.

 

Thanks again.

 

David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.