Jump to content

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses

Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs, ARE due Dec 6th, 2021. Our current donations have fallen far short of the funds we need to renew. Please remember the RennTech.org community is Member supported so please consider a donation to help...  THANK YOU!

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

A little help on leaking driver side axle boot

Recommended Posts

Disclaimer - I know nothing about how this works¬†ūüėí..... ¬†The driver side axle boot. ¬†Went to the dealer and the car was in the bay on the ground. ¬†Greasy smear inside driver side wheel has been diagnosed as a leaking driver side axle boot. ¬†A few questions...


1). how hard / involved is it diagnose?  Guessing it depends on the size of the leak?  Can it be as simple as removing the wheel and seeing a leak, cracked boot?  It didn't even look as if the wheel had been removed


2). can anyone provide any info as to what gets replaced in a new vs rebuild repair.  Still waiting on the parts numbers form the dealer.  Does anyone have any schematics - curious.


3). ¬† Considering dealer pricing, rebuild at $2000 vs new at $ 2550 - thoughts?? ¬†High, low, etc.? ¬†I know what I think¬†ūüėĖ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

can anyone help me understand where the leaking grease may be coming from?  Could there be more than 1 source?  still trying to figure out how this all goes together, but its like shooting in the dark....  Does the rubber boot keep the grease contained?  Why does the whole part need to be changed out - according to dealer. This is the part they quoted me:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if the rubber is just split, why can’t the boot just be replaced and not the whole part??  And now I’m wondering why the service manager told me

its ok to drive not knowing how much grease has been lost?  Should I worry about driving it with the grease being lost?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Whoever told you the entire axle has to be replaced is simply taking the easy way out and trying to replace the entire axle assembly.  The boots are available as parts as shown in your diagram.  So unless the axle is damaged, or the CV joints are bad, they are taking the easy way out, right through your wallet..................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So once the grease has started to leak, how does one tell it‚Äôs still ‚Äúok‚ÄĚ to drive? ¬†Dealer srvc Mgr says I can still drive it with no worries - even though I think the diagnosis went something like this‚Ķ.. ¬† car arrives to shop, mechanic sees grease stains on boot and wheel and says, replace the whole assembly. I‚Äôd bet money, based on when I saw the car on the shop floor, nothing dissembled and after diagnosis, that‚Äôs what happened‚Ķ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my Audi Q5 2.0T I started to hear a clicking in the front suspension.  Inspected and found grease slung out from the ripped boot .... it was too late, dirt and debris had gotten in there and destroyed the CV joint.  Now I watch it like a hawk and caught the other side, which happened very shortly after, while it was only the boot which is cheap and easy.  Anyway as soon as you see grease I would fix it.  Preferably you should inspect your boots regularly.  On some of these cars the boot has been revised to be a bit tougher and more durable..............

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

So what’s the time difference between seeing a split boot and tearing everything apart to determine one needs a full replacement instead and then putting it all back together?

Edited by WTL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you see a torn boot replace it immediately.  The difference is if you ignore it eventually it will get expensive and things the CV joint will fail.  You will know because you will hear a knocking sound or clicking as I mentioned .... or if it gets bad it can affect suspension and drive experience (vibration, etc).


The boot is very cheap.  Every time my car is up on the rack I always look at them to be sure no tears because if you catch it early it's cheap.  But if you sleep on it, this gets expensive fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey WTL,

I had a bad boot so I just yanked both axles out, bought the boots, and swapped them out.  Easy.  Since you seem OCD, after you do this, you'll sleep better at night.

This is a photo of the unit after spending an hour wire brushing it.  I don't have pictures of the boot swap but it looks alot faster with the rust gone, fresh paint.


Rust removal attempt on-car.  FAil.



Remove both side.  Appled paint remover...  no impact since they used some paint which resists chemical.



OCD Clean



Once cleaned, I removed the boot/replaced it.  Just get the proper (Out) circlip/clamp plier or the clip will fly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.