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Loren, Can you send me DIY for Row 030 install?


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There isn't a DIY per se. You will need some special tools like a spring compressor and lower ball joint tool (pulling tool not a fork tool). This is about a 5-8 hour job for even for folks that know what they are doing -- and you will still need an alignment at the end. If you've got the tools and want to tackle this let me know and I'll see if I can find other tips.

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I just installed H&R springs with MO30 shocks in my car about 3 weeks ago... Make sure car is well supported. Be carefull with spring and compressors. There is a lot of energy stored in them ready to be released! If not comfortable, leave it to the PROS! Your family and friends need you!

The rears shock strut combo is held in place by 3 bolts on top and a cross bolt at the bottom. To access top, you need to remove the rear parcel cover behind rear seats. Loosen rear sway bar at lower suspension arms. Compress spring using a spring compressor. Remove lower bolt holding lower part of strut/spring assembly. I used a pry bar to lower susp arm and gently remove complete assembly.

Once out of car, you need to remove top bolt. I used a wrench to loosen nut and held shock shaft with hex bit. Note position of all washers. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Note position of upper bearing. One of them faces 90 deg. from where lower bolt goes through. Use pry bar to lower susp arm and install bolt that holds strut in place. Make sure that spring end is seated in top rubber damper correctly. Install sway bar. Re-install top bolts from inside car.

Fronts are a little bit more complicated. I removed the battery cover and 2 inner plastic aprons from inside trunk using torx bits. I marked the top 3 bolts that hold the top bearing assembly using tape. They are used to adjust camber. Loosen the sway bar connection. Upper bolt connecting sway bar link to strut body holds strut to wheel carrier. Mark how upper bearing is positioned since it fits one way.

I was able to compress the spring enough to overcome the shock strenght and removed the shock/spring without undoing ball joint. Just be careful, it will compress enough to swing the whole assembly outwards. Once clear of fender, you can just pull assembly out of wheel carrier.

Once out, disassembly is similar to rears. There is one washer that is embeded in the bump stop. I missed it, caught it on the second one and had to go back and redo the other side again.

Reverse the order to reassemble. Be careful pushing the assembly into the fender. Also, make sure that the wheel carrier makes full contact with the little tab at the bottom of shock. In other words, push wheel carrier upwards as you tighten holding bolt. Return upper bearing to marked position. Also, make sure your top and bottom spring ends are positioned correctly. There are indentations at the bottom plate and at the top rubber isolator.

I was able to return the upper bearing to where it was, car seems to pull straight. Will eventually get a track aligment :)

That is pretty much it. I had the fronts out in about 45 minutes per side, did 3 times due to missing washer. Rears were about 30 minutes each. Hardest partfor me, was removing my harness bar which mounts using the top 3 nuts per side.

As I said before, be real carefull with the springs. If in doubt, let the pro's do it. A good man knows it limitations... Good luck! Lou

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  • 1 year later...

Just wanted to add my $.02 to this.. this post was helpful in my Pss-9 instal on my 1999 C4... however I found that on the fronts, the drive axles will not allow the spindle enough play to rotate the compressed shock out from underneath the fender, so I had to undo the drive axles at the front diff (seemed to be the easiest place to do it).

Other than that, it was by the numbers. The fronts were a bit of a pain... the rears were a breeze.

trev

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